Tric LED's Fuze Box Question(s)

[kevorama]

I need some help from my DC geniuses. All of my 'Safety' lighting has been installed with relatively few issues. The hardest part was trying to cram all of the Posi-taps and connectors back into the front fender wiring opening!

Now, I'm doing a custom under lighting using 16' of RGB LED's and I know that I'm going to do other DC mods in the future. So, I purchased the Fuze Block from Reggy and I'm trying to think of the best place to put it for accessibility and I'd like to keep the LED's remote receiver fairly close to it.

Question 1: The receiver is weather proof so I was thinking that under the seat would be a good place for both of them. Yes/no?

Question 2: I feel like a dolt for asking, but I don't have the tech manual yet. What's the best/easiest way to find a switched on + wire close to this area or any other area for that matter? I have a probe, but it didn't seem to help when I was hooking up my TIPS kit. It never lit up even when pushed almost all the way through the hot wire. I had the other lead grounded. Since it was the first time that I had used that one I brought it in and tapped on a 9v batter to make sure that the light in the tester even worked. It did.

Thanks in advance:thumbup:

 

[Arr MiHardies]

The fuse box is most certainly NOT weatherproof.

On my RT, under the trunk, there are two black panels one accessed the water level and computer plugs. The other (on the left side) has nothing behind it. This is where I put my fuze box. The easiest place I found to tap a switched power outlet was the gas gauge backlight. Basically a run straight up the side and out the back of the console.

 

[kevorama]

The fuse box is most certainly NOT weatherproof.

On my RT, under the trunk, there are two black panels one accessed the water level and computer plugs. The other (on the left side) has nothing behind it. This is where I put my fuze box. The easiest place I found to tap a switched power outlet was the gas gauge backlight. Basically a run straight up the side and out the back of the console.

I meant the LED remote's receiver was weather proof. I didn't figure the Fuze Box was. I was hoping to hear from you and Phil on this. I have a 2011. You ran the Switched +v to your Fuze Box from the front console? Just to be sure.

Thanks

 

[Phil]

I need some help from my DC geniuses. All of my 'Safety' lighting has been installed with relatively few issues. The hardest part was trying to cram all of the Posi-taps and connectors back into the front fender wiring opening!

Now, I'm doing a custom under lighting using 16' of RGB LED's and I know that I'm going to do other DC mods in the future. So, I purchased the Fuze Block from Reggy and I'm trying to think of the best place to put it for accessibility and I'd like to keep the LED's remote receiver fairly close to it.

Question 1: The receiver is weather proof so I was thinking that under the seat would be a good place for both of them. Yes/no?

Question 2: I feel like a dolt for asking, but I don't have the tech manual yet. What's the best/easiest way to find a switched on + wire close to this area or any other area for that matter? I have a probe, but it didn't seem to help when I was hooking up my TIPS kit. It never lit up even when pushed almost all the way through the hot wire. I had the other lead grounded. Since it was the first time that I had used that one I brought it in and tapped on a 9v batter to make sure that the light in the tester even worked. It did.

Thanks in advance:thumbup:

Kevin----
ok my friend....
#1..... Under the seat sounds fine for the receiver. Actually a good idea to put it there.

#2...... Like Arrrrr, mine is on the left (side opposite the water resivoir). I used some hearty double sided tape to mount it. Now, the switched hot lead..... I know that you can find one like Arrrr said, behind the headlights near the gauges. The wires that plug on to the gas gauge has one wire that powers the bulb that lights the gauge. I can't tell you which one that is, but if you pull the bezel that goes around the gauges, you'll see the 3 wires that are plugged onto the fuel and temp gauges. Pull those plugs, turn the key to power up, and test for power. ONE of those wires will have power.

As I said on the phone last week, I actually tapped a wire, very near the bike main fuse block that is under the seat on the right side. I then ran an 'armored' #10 red wire from there, to the new fuse block. Armored meaning I put some plastic flex around the wire for good measure to protect it. Where it connected to the fuse block, I added LiquidTape to make sure it would never short. where I tapped the switched +12' I added PVC tape (red) pretty thick to again protect the junction.

Feel free to call my cell tomorrow if you like and we can talk it through. And/or email me.. I get emails on the phone instantly.


Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad3.5 using Tapatalk HD

 

[Arr MiHardies]

Yes. I ran the tap up behind the dash. The gas gauge has 1 three wire bundle that sends it the measurements, and one additional solitary wire that powers the backlight. It was this single wire that I tapped.

 

[Arr MiHardies]

One thing you may want to consider is adding a switch between the power source you are tapping and the fuze box. That way you can manually turn everything on and off to save your battery when just sitting.

 

[Arthur---Mexico]

I found that the easiest place to find a switched power sorcewas taping into the front marker light circuit. But I needed the switched current for a small automotive type relay. Very small load that handles the fan's operating system of AUTOMATIC or MANUAL when the engine is turned OFF using the red button on the right side of the handlebar but the ignition key is ON. This way I can keep my engine from over heating when I get stuck in Mexico City's horrendous traffic. Arthur---Mexico City

I need some help from my DC geniuses. All of my 'Safety' lighting has been installed with relatively few issues. The hardest part was trying to cram all of the Posi-taps and connectors back into the front fender wiring opening!

Now, I'm doing a custom under lighting using 16' of RGB LED's and I know that I'm going to do other DC mods in the future. So, I purchased the Fuze Block from Reggy and I'm trying to think of the best place to put it for accessibility and I'd like to keep the LED's remote receiver fairly close to it.

Question 1: The receiver is weather proof so I was thinking that under the seat would be a good place for both of them. Yes/no?

Question 2: I feel like a dolt for asking, but I don't have the tech manual yet. What's the best/easiest way to find a switched on + wire close to this area or any other area for that matter? I have a probe, but it didn't seem to help when I was hooking up my TIPS kit. It never lit up even when pushed almost all the way through the hot wire. I had the other lead grounded. Since it was the first time that I had used that one I brought it in and tapped on a 9v batter to make sure that the light in the tester even worked. It did.

Thanks in advance:thumbup:

 

[kevorama]

Thanks guys, that's pretty much what I needed. It's the starting point I wanted and I can work backwards to that. Much obliged:bowdown: