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transmission goes clunk...

No word.....

from dealer or BRP yet. Can anyone tell me where the gear position sensor is located? I looked in the shop manual and online parts manual from BRP, but can
not seem to locate where it goes or a part # for it. Therefore, I also do not know how long it should take to change it out. Seems like I read on here that it was
a pretty fast fix.

Thanks,
 
Can anyone tell me where the gear position sensor is located? I looked in the shop manual and online parts manual from BRP, but can
not seem to locate where it goes or a part # for it. Therefore, I also do not know how long it should take to change it out. Seems like I read on here that it was
a pretty fast fix.

Look in Section 2 Subsection 14 (GEARBOX) on pages 280-281. (Edit: That is for the F3 manual. You should have a similar section in your RT manual.)

420265120 Angle Rotation Sensor $134.99

R&R should be under 1 hour flat rate time.

YMMV
 
Gearbox position sensor

Look in Section 2 Subsection 14 (GEARBOX) on pages 280-281. (Edit: That is for the F3 manual. You should have a similar section in your RT manual.)

420265120 Angle Rotation Sensor $134.99

R&R should be under 1 hour flat rate time.

YMMV

Thanks for the directions!!! Found it. Looks like a quick fix to me. Just hoping BRP does not drop the ball on this one, else I will have to do the job!

Thanks again,
 
Transmission goes clunk, bluehole, gear position sensor

The GBPS (gear box position sensor) is located on the left side of the engine, just above and to the left of the manual gear shift shaft. The gear shift shaft has no linkage on it because you have an SE6 machine. Lie down on the left side of the spyder and look up under the Tupperware in the direction under the drive belt. The BPS will be black plastic and have a wiring harness coming from its top. Jim ;)
 
Just returned.....

the bike to the dealer service department. They called and said that BRP wanted them to run a few more tests on the gearbox position sensor. They still believe, as do I, that BRP will send them a new sensor and it will work just fine.

For now, the bike is at the dealership until the repair is completed. Hopefully that will not be too much longer.

Will post more as I get it.
 
Just got off....

the phone with service department. BRP wanted them to check some wire in the main harness---all checked OK. GBPS (gearbox position sensor) is on order now. They will
give me a call back later this afternoon with a projected delivery date and install date. Should not be much longer now. I am guessing mid next week.
Seems to be a lot of these things going bad. Hope I get a good one!!!
 
Back home

with trike back in the garage. Mixed feelings about the "fix" and with the current weather will be unable to test much for a while. Seems it still exists to a much lesser degree and only below 2500 rpm. This from only the ride home and very little "around town" driving. so need more saddle time. In the meantime busy cleaning it up again. It sat in the rain for over a week and I lost a Auto Meter clock and a front head light bulb. To the dealers credit they comped me for the headlight bulb and doing the replacement.

At this point I am not going to replace the clock but will go back to the original fuel and temp gauges as they look water resistant. I will look for something a bit more heavy duty in that department.

But it is home safe and sound and I will get it back in proper shape in the coming weeks.

Thanks to all for the advice given.
 
........will go back to the original fuel and temp gauges as they look water resistant......

Got nothing to do with your trans clunks, but a comment on the OE fuel & temp gauges & their 'water resistance' or lack thereof!! :sour:

I must admit that I have been known to ride in pretty much any weather, & even tho it is mainly hot & dry where I live down-under, there are places & times where things can get very wet..... ie water more than just 'inches deep' over the road & absobloodylutely pouring rain type wet - and yet those gauges have never even looked like being the slightest bit susceptible to water entry. Just to provide some frame of reference, I'm now on my third 'waterproof' marine type dash-cam tho - it's been replaced twice under warranty cos they are meant to be able to withstand solid jets of water spray at high speed as well as being dunked in a bucket of water... I haven't tried the bucket dunking, but mounting them behind the windscreen on top of the dash hasn't kept enough road spray off them!!

BUUUT, riding in the rain does sometimes mean you get to leave your Spyder standing in the rain when it's not moving. If I park it overnight out in the open, I almost always use the travel cover, the gauges havent had any issues then; but if I just leave the bike in the rain for a 'short while' (lunch break or evening meal type 'short while') invariably when I get back both those gauges have at least some condensation inside the glass, if not obvious water drips running down the inside face of the glass. :(

The local dealer (admittedly not one I feel really confident with) has had a couple of tries at sealing/re-sealing them properly, but it's still happening every time the Spyder spends anything much more than a couple of minutes standing in the rain. The gauges haven't failed (yet) & I've got the 'dry out' process down pat now (a couple of minutes with a hair dryer or heat gun on low works) but I've had a look at other Spyders that've been parked for the same period as mine in the rain, & many of them seem to have the same problem, so it's not something unique to me!

Sooo, while those gauges seem to be sealed perfectly adequately for whenever the bike is moving regardless of how intense the rain may get, they don't seem to be so well sealed once you stop & they get to stand in the rain for a short while..... but they do seem to be robust enough to handled repeated water/condensation exposure & dry out cycles. However, do note that while they are foggy or wet they can be fairly hard to read. ;)

Im looking in at swapping the OE gauges out, altho I might not replace them with a/mkt versions of fuel & temp gauges, I might try some that provide additional info, given that the built in digital gauges seem to be more accurate than the analogue gauges anyway. :thumbup:
 
It got up to..

48 degrees Tuesday so I went for a test run. Did a 50 mile lap. On the way out I went thru downtown Sequim. Leaving home the bike shifted smooth & quite. By the time I got to the center of town (4 miles) it was making a low noise in the first 3 shifts. I headed out on the main highway to warm up the oil to operating temp. Returning, I went thru the main street of town from one end to the other. Pulling away from each stop, again 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts produced a loud clunk. It was as if nothing was replaced. When I picked up the bike, I was told it tested out just fine. Very disappointed.

Yesterday I called the dealer and told them the results of my test run. It is now getting to be wet/cold season here in the NW. The logistics of getting the bike back to the dealer are not very good. I will not ride in rain the 65 miles to the dealer so I suspect the correct "fix" will not happen until next spring, if ever. Also, have no interest in leaving the bike at the dealer based on my last experience.

So, looks like I am leaving the CanAm/Brp community. I might try to sell the bike "as is" or just let it sit in the garage. Right now, I have bigger fish to fry---heart operation.

Thanks to all,
 
Your first paragraph describes mine exactly, plus I often get another symptom: I also get a harsh "reverse buck" caused by engine speed being way too slow upon clutch re-engagement after the shift. Then forward acceleration resumes normally, right after the "buck." All this happens without me changing the throttle. Now, I think I can alleviate it somewhat by rolling-on more throttle during the shift, but I never know when it's going to happen!

It only happens occasionally, as others have said, but mine does it enough for me to claim "unacceptable!" :banghead: The old SE5 was a pleasure compared to this.

As for just the "clunk," that happens nearly always, all shifts UP and all shifts DOWN, so much so that I've nicknamed her, "Rosie Castanets" :doorag: But none of this happens while cold, only after warm-up. It's just as though that LEARN process was done with a cold transmission, but needs to be done only when hot.

I'm about 500-600 miles past my first oil-change, which has had no effect whatsoever. I guess I'll report this to my dealer and see if the warranty will cover dealing with it.
I reported this on 10/17 to my dealer by written letter, including Post #7 from this thread. I followed up in person 2 weeks later, and we still have no response back from BRP.

I now have over 5600 miles of this, it's not getting any better, and I know that harsh "reverse buck" is beating hell out of the whole drivetrain. Sometimes it's like the rear wheel hits a concrete block in the road! :banghead:
 
Does the same thing

My '14 RTL is doing the same thing. It has happened over time. I have almost 17000 miles on it. Quiet as can be when I first start out and it is cool. When it gets warmed up, it's here a clunk, there a clunk, every shift is clunk. Even downshifts can be somewhat rough.
Called my dealer. Of course, they have never seen or heard of this issue. I am taking it in this coming week so they can take it for a spin. I was told that told that I am shifting way too soon. That these engines like RPMs in the 5000+ range. I explained that I have a 1330, not a twin. My engine has never seen 5000 RPM. I really don't believe that it's an RPM issue. I will keep everyone updated.
 
My '14 RTL is doing the same thing. It has happened over time. I have almost 17000 miles on it. Quiet as can be when I first start out and it is cool. When it gets warmed up, it's here a clunk, there a clunk, every shift is clunk. Even downshifts can be somewhat rough.
Called my dealer. Of course, they have never seen or heard of this issue. I am taking it in this coming week so they can take it for a spin. I was told that told that I am shifting way too soon. That these engines like RPMs in the 5000+ range. I explained that I have a 1330, not a twin. My engine has never seen 5000 RPM. I really don't believe that it's an RPM issue. I will keep everyone updated.
Got 27 back today. The dealer checked for updates. There were none. They reset the clutch engagement points in BUDS. It does shift smoother. The clunk is still there from time to time. I am planning on riding down to "Spyders In The Ozarks" this Friday. I am going to try to get 600 to 700 miles on it. I will see how it does. It does respond better on takeoffs from stop signs and stop lights.
The main thing for me is if something big happens down the road, I at least had it in to have it checked out. I will keep you posted.
 
My 2014 RTL just started the same clunk shifting last week that was described at the start of this thread. has anyone got any updates? Cold it shift smooth, after heating up the shift from 1 thru 4th gear has the clunk. 4 to 5 and 5 to 6 is smooth, no matter the rpm.
 
Oil level

I have a 2015 RTL , when I changed the oil for the first time there was a factory bullinen to only add 5 QTS on oil changes. Apperantly the full mark was adding to much oil, not sure if that could be your problem but I have run mine with only 5 QTS over a year shifts smooth only light clunk on first & reverse when cold. Might want to do a search on the amount of oil anyway
 
I have a 2015 RTL , when I changed the oil for the first time there was a factory bullinen to only add 5 QTS on oil changes. Apperantly the full mark was adding to much oil, not sure if that could be your problem but I have run mine with only 5 QTS over a year shifts smooth only light clunk on first & reverse when cold. Might want to do a search on the amount of oil anyway
Drained my oil. Left the filter in since it only had 1100 miles on it. Put five quarts back in. After 600 miles, the clunk is gone. Even quieter shifting from reverse to first than it ever was. It will not go away immediately. Took about 100 miles to start getting back to normal. After about 400 miles it was pretty much gone. I did put in BRP oil. Next oil change, I will go back to Amsoil.
 
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