• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

trailering a spyder

dartex

New member
have found many good tips on trailering one question when on the trailer do you leave the park brake set or leave it off and just strap it down have a couple of spyder riders give different answers your 2cents worth please
 
I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02
 
I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02

I leave the Spyder in neutral with the brake on.

where are you going to put the fourth strap? One over each front wheel and one through the rear wheel makes three.

I have found wheel chocks pushed into the wheels don't stay there. Since the suspension is not strapped under load, the tires flex on bumps and push out the chocks. You would have to mount chocks into the trailer floor for them to stay put.
 
Here's the thing..!!

if it's semi auto it doesn't matter in what gear it will still roll so best leave it in neutral. If it is manual it's not a good idea to leave it in gear cause it is rough on the transmission. Same goes for the brake so basically if you tie her down right you should not need to have it in gear or have the park brake on...this is how I towed all bikes....:thumbup:
 
This is how I do mine. SE6 in N parking break on.

attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • tow2.jpg
    tow2.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 1,505
  • tow1.jpg
    tow1.jpg
    59.7 KB · Views: 1,488
Leave the tranny in neutral. No parking brake. One tie down each wheel, three total. My Spyder has never moved. Use towels in the spokes of the wheels to prevent scratching them. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
When I trailer the Spyder, I do it the same as the tractor or car. Parking brake on, 4 axle straps through the wheels and 4 ratchet straps (1 each on the fronts, 2 on the rear, all 4 going at diagonals to the hooks at the 4 corners of the trailer and wheel chocks screwed to the trailer floor. It's safety first: both for the Spyder and for anyone or anything which might be nearby in the event of some kind of failure.


Sent from my little piece of paradise!
 
On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.

H2O
 
SE-6 here...:D
Neutral; with the parking brake on, and three straps...
Check the straps shortly after you start your trip, and then every couple of hours after that. :2thumbs:
 
On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.

H2O
Why? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine? :shocked:
 
Send a pm to Mike( Blueknight911) on how he strapped down a 2012RTS-SE5( that was mine) on a snowmobile trailer. Deanna
 
I have an SE5, and in my toyhauler I have parking brake on and tie downs on each front wheel and two on the back wheel going out to the corners of the garage. I have the CAN AM tie downs, got them off ebay, still pricey... but they are set up to go thru the wheels and are padded so they dont scratch. Come as a set of four.

20150524_134206_zpsmu19k899.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Why? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine? :shocked:
As impatient as I am, I never waited that long to see if it would quit on its own. I couldn't stand the noise so I turned the key back to the on position while I was doing whatever it was I was doing at the time.

H2O
 
Trailering my 2014 RT Limited

After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3484.JPG
    IMG_3484.JPG
    95.9 KB · Views: 200
  • IMG_3493.jpg
    IMG_3493.jpg
    42.4 KB · Views: 220
  • IMG_3491.JPG
    IMG_3491.JPG
    81.7 KB · Views: 205
  • IMG_3487.jpg
    IMG_3487.jpg
    46.2 KB · Views: 231
  • IMG_3488.JPG
    IMG_3488.JPG
    93.4 KB · Views: 180
RECHET STRAP METHOD

I think I'm the MIKE you are referring to :thumbup: :2excited: , Nice job, and very nice PICS.... :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:........I can't believe someone actually believed me :banghead::banghead::banghead: .......good for you, you won't be dis-appointed.......I only use ONE on the rear wheel ...But I'm a dare Devil :lecturef_smilie:.....The only thing I would caution about is the distance of the front wheel anchors from the front tires / wheels. I don't think it's possible that the Spyder can move forward though.....and this is only as strong as the weakest LINK which is the ANCHORS .....I think your's are FINE....................Mike :bbq:
 
Last edited:
I tie down the front wheels because someone said that they could bounce sideways and maybe be off the chocks. I'm figuring why take a risk. I don't plan on hitting anything hard enough to cause that , but then a lot a crap has happened to me that I hadn't planed for.
 
After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.
Mike( Blueknight911) tied down my 2012RRTS-SE5 the way you described above and my :spyder2: did not move on snowmobile trailer. Deanna

 
I loaded up the Spyder the other day for experimental reasons. I was gonna do what Mike described, but then I came up with a different plan. My trailer is open, with angle aluminum open rail sides. I had 2 straps in place. One strap went through the rear wheel and back to anchors in the rear corners. The other strap went under the front of the bike, behind the lower A-arms, then I put it over the top of the A-arms, and outside of the lower shock mount, and forward to the aluminum rail. Sorry no pics, but both straps created a nice downward and forward and backward pull. The front strap, being on the outside of the shock mounts, creates a good downward and forward pull, but also a pull that would prevent side movement too. The back strap is simply through the wheel and down/back. I don't plan to have to trailer, but now I know how I'll do it if the need arises. The way the weather looks, we might be trailering to Spyderfest:(
 
Last edited:
I like it

After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.

I have a similar setup.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0467.jpg
    DSCN0467.jpg
    60.5 KB · Views: 217
  • DSCN0464.jpg
    DSCN0464.jpg
    90.4 KB · Views: 225
  • DSCN0461.jpg
    DSCN0461.jpg
    80.6 KB · Views: 202
Back
Top