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Trailering a Spyder RT

foam Pipe insulaters will work as well and they are already spilt. I do not know about the pool noodles. Oldmanzues
I use an R&R 7'x12' V-nose. The key is the clear width of the door opening/ramp. A 7' trailer does not have a seven foot opening. Masure to be sure...and allow a few inches for clearance if you can. Cable-tensioned ramps are usually the narrowest at the point the cables attach to the ramp. I use split, hollow pool noodles as cable bumpers. They also make the cables more visible, so I don't run into them when walking.

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foam Pipe insulaters will work as well and they are already spilt. I do not know about the pool noodles. Oldmanzues

That's another good idea. I used the hollow pool noodles because they were brighter. We use the trailer as a camper at the track, and sometimes use the ramp as a porch. The bright colors make it less likely that I will run into a cable with my worn out old eyes. :roflblack:

Easy to split the pool noodles with a razor knife.
 
I purchased a 77 inch wide x 10 foot utility trailer with a drop gate to get my "purchase on a whim" 2014 :ani29: RT home from Texas. Perfect size, just have to be careful so as not to drag when loading, helps to jack up the nose of the trailer.

A 6 x 10 (72 inches wide) works on the trailer part but your wheels are almost off the ramp loading too scarey for me.:yikes:
 

I would always recommend an enclosed trailer. Like NancysToy I have a 7 X 12 with a V nose. This is a great size for the Spyder and it gives you room to work around with straps and extra equipment. An enclosed trailer is not that much more than an open trailer. Also less chance of road damage, theft and you will not have to spend a day cleaning all the road grime off before you ride.

I have had numerous trailers through the years and like Wells Cargo and Look best. There are also many other good brands out there. Remember you have a $20-30,000 unit you are hauling. Take good care of it.

Just had a member who got his Spyder stolen in New Mexico. They took the open trailer and all. If it were in an enclosed trailer I wonder if the culprit would have known what was inside and maybe left it alone.


Jack
 
Hi All, need a bit of advice from those who have placed a Spyder RT in a trailer. What size trailer do you use to trailer the RT? I am considering trailering my 2011 down to Central Florida Power Sports when my 2014 is ready to be picked up.

Thanks in advance.

AC
Read this thread" The Easiest, Quickest, most Secure, least Damaging, Spyder Tie-Down.... Period" posted on 5/31/15 thread started by Deanna777. If you have any questions send a pm to Mike( Blueknight911).

Go to "Deanna777" started Threads to find the above Thread.

Deanna
 
Hi All, need a bit of advice from those who have placed a Spyder RT in a trailer. What size trailer do you use to trailer the RT? I am considering trailering my 2011 down to Central Florida Power Sports when my 2014 is ready to be picked up.

Thanks in advance.

AC
I use the NHtrailers.com. They make the ProLine all aluminum enclosed trailer. 80"x12' with 36" Vee nose. It is a great storage unit when not towing it around. Great people to do business with too!
 
Pay attention to the ramp

Most of the utility trailers have a ramp so steep that your nose hits on the skid plate. You need to really watch out for that. I think you could get stuck if you don't pay attention.:banghead:
 
Doesn't quite clear

I have the same type trailer as Bob. The ramp is a little too steep. I put a piece of 2x4 under my jack, crank it all the way up and it clears.
 

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If you don't mind me asking

I use the NHtrailers.com. They make the ProLine all aluminum enclosed trailer. 80"x12' with 36" Vee nose. It is a great storage unit when not towing it around. Great people to do business with too!

What sort of price point would a trailer like yours be at? I'm planning for down the road and would be interested in an enclosed aluminum.
 
Read your owners manual. Deanna

We are trailering a Spyder and a Victory in a 7x14 enclosed V nose trailer. We test fitted them today. We have to load the Spyder first, nose first, then slide the rear over to the left of center to place the Vic next to it overlapping about 2 foot or so. The manual says to tie down front wheels pulled forward. We cannot do that. The question is, is strapping thru front wheels pulling rearward while strapping rear wheel pulled forward going to accomplish the same damage free result as the reverse procedure in the manual??
 
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