Trailer Wiring for GS Spyder Question

[wkheathjr]

Am looking for something budget-wise and "Plug and Play" friendly. Not want something that I would want to mess around and ruin a pretty, professional and neat look result. Bottom line is that once I am done using the trailer, I want to be able to remove the wiring and put it away right away.

I understand that some have used U-Haul #13486 as seen here. $16.95

Some has used Hoppy #46255 for $59.99 but a bit too steep in my opinion.

If I was to go with UHaul, I would have to mess around with wiring?? Can anyone who has used this comment on that for me please??

Hoppy looks more like a "Plug and Play"??

 

[NancysToy]

Am looking for something budget-wise and "Plug and Play" friendly. Not want something that I would want to mess around and ruin a pretty, professional and neat look result. Bottom line is that once I am done using the trailer, I want to be able to remove the wiring and put it away right away.

I understand that some have used U-Haul #13486 as seen here. $16.95

Some has used Hoppy #46255 for $59.99 but a bit too steep in my opinion.

If I was to go with UHaul, I would have to mess around with wiring?? Can anyone who has used this comment on that for me please??

Hoppy looks more like a "Plug and Play"??

Part of what connector to use depends on your trailer. If you have a trailer with separate turn signals, like your Spyder, you will need a 5-pole connector (or 6-pole with one wire not used). If you don't have separate turn signals, a four pole will do. Then, you would also need a powered taillight convertor to change the Spyder 5-wire system to a 4-wire system. These converters can be called 5-to-4 converters or, more commonly, 3-to-2 converters. Even if you use a 5-wire trailer, you will need a powered converter to allow the trailer lights to work off a separate electrical circuit, and not draw on the Spyder lighting system. Most people hide the converter inside the bodywork, and just run a pigtail out through a notch for the actual trailer connector. You may have to get creative to hide it well, since it needs to be long enough to reach back near the hitch ball. Some folks have left it short, and made up a removable, intermediate pigtail, while others have made a very long trailer harness (not recommended, IMO).

Trailer components are available everywhere these days, including big box stores like Walmart, home improvement stores, and auto parts stores. Shop around a bit. If you don't exactly know what you are doing, or how you need to do it for your equipment, you might ask at a trailer store to see if they can make a recommendation or do the work. BTW, a wiring diagram for the Spyder helps a lot.

 

[wkheathjr]

BTW, a wiring diagram for the Spyder helps a lot.

Any chance there is one?? I don't have one on hand myself. I am actually building my own trailer out of aluminum toolbox that was left at recycle center where I work so it will work fine for me. I already ordered torsion set for it and will be getting tongue from a friend of mine who work for company that make trailers for beer/soda companies.

I am trying to get all stuff together (tires, coupling, some aluminum to make cooler holder and tongue, and wiring harness/light sets).

The goal was to make trailer so light you could lift it without any load inside it. So far, I am able to lift the toolbox myself but adding tires and so on could be different story. I just don't really need big trailer like Piggybacker but just enough to carry tents, small gas stove, twin cot mattress, one folding chair, helmet, and some clothes as well as dry clothes. The trailer will also be used as table inside the screen tent. For lighting, I will be using this. The light items I will be using, the better, IMO.