• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Trailer wireing

If you don't understand wiring in general, and trailer wiring in particular, this is no place for guesswork and on the job training. Improper wiring can disable your Spyder. I have never seen any lights that didn't have ground wires, so adding a new ground wire run to the Spyder, while necessary, is not the answer. The exception would be if you have already wired the grounds (usually black) on your lights to the trailer chassis...that will have to be changed. They would have to be connected to a ground wire which runs to the trailer connector, and connects to a corresponding ground pin on the Spyder connector. BTW, trailer wiring is usually color coded and sequenced in a certain order in the connectors. If you are unfamiliar with all this, get some instructions or some knowledgeable help...or visit a trailer shop.


I understand wireing in general.. I have been around auto maintaince an this kind of stuff all my life.. That is why I was saying that you could use/make your own ground wire an add it to make a 5 wire connector, an instead of useing the ground on the 4 wire, you use all them as hot wires to power turn signals, brake an tail lights..
 
I understand wireing in general.. I have been around auto maintaince an this kind of stuff all my life.. That is why I was saying that you could use/make your own ground wire an add it to make a 5 wire connector, an instead of useing the ground on the 4 wire, you use all them as hot wires to power turn signals, brake an tail lights..


:banghead: So,,,, does that mean I don't get lunch? :roflblack:
 
I understand wireing in general.. I have been around auto maintaince an this kind of stuff all my life.. That is why I was saying that you could use/make your own ground wire an add it to make a 5 wire connector, an instead of useing the ground on the 4 wire, you use all them as hot wires to power turn signals, brake an tail lights..

If you have a 4-wire connector on the trailer, just wire in a 5-4 converter like the Hopkins unit to the Spyder. That will provide a mating flat-4 connector, wired in the proper sequence, and will convert the Spyder's 5-wire output to the 4-wire the trailer needs. There is a risk that it won't work, but it is worth a try if the trailer is already wired. In my opinion, the second best approach with a 4-wire trailer is to add separate turn signals (or brake lights) and replace the connector with a flat-5. The ground is already there, from the sound of things, so it woould be best to run the wire for the additional light circuit. Less rewiring on the trailer that way.
 
If you have a 4-wire connector on the trailer, just wire in a 5-4 converter like the Hopkins unit to the Spyder. That will provide a mating flat-4 connector, wired in the proper sequence, and will convert the Spyder's 5-wire output to the 4-wire the trailer needs. There is a risk that it won't work, but it is worth a try if the trailer is already wired. In my opinion, the second best approach with a 4-wire trailer is to add separate turn signals (or brake lights) and replace the connector with a flat-5. The ground is already there, from the sound of things, so it woould be best to run the wire for the additional light circuit. Less rewiring on the trailer that way.

Spoke with Mike (Kentucky Guy) last night. There are currently no lights on the trailer, so we will either go with two LEDs that have a separate brake and blinker (harder to find locally), or we will go with a 4-light setup and use one pair for "running-blinker" and the other pair for "running-brake". Either way, we will run the five wire setup with no converter. The only way I would want to use the converter would be if the trailer had molded in lights and it would be economically prohibitive or asthetically prohibitive to add the second set of lights. I know others have used them successfully, but one less item to worry about is better in my opinion.

Using Mike's logic from an earlier post, if the trailer was already wired four, rather than using a converter then we could have installed the second pair of lights and pulled the fifth wire in the loom, typically blue on that setup, and then swapped out the flat plug. In this particular application, on the trailer side, the blue being the brake (with the standard brown, yellow, green, white) config on the four wire. The ground will obviously run from the lights to the wired ground on the Spyder.

Shouldn't pose a problem that I see. Besides, I get to do a nice ride and hopefully see Mike wolf down some of that Japanese ambrosia that he loves so much...:shocked:
 
I bought a set of LED Stop/Parking lights today.. Also I bought 2 amber LED light for the turn signals. The wireing is a 5 wire.. Hope this works...
 
I bought a set of LED Stop/Parking lights today.. Also I bought 2 amber LED light for the turn signals. The wireing is a 5 wire.. Hope this works...
That should work fine...sounds perfect. Did you pick up a flat-5 connector set? Some split-loom conduit for running the trailer wires is wise, as are some zip-ties. For connection to the Spyder I prefer Posi-Taps, but suitcase connectors will do. For wire-to-wire connections at the trailer I prefer either waterproof butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink tubing. A little liquid electrical tape and some rubber self-vulcanizing tape are helpful to have available, too.
 
I just built a trailer and wired my Spyder without the BRP Harnessa month ago.

To save yourself agrevation use a 5 wire harness (availble at Walmart and all auto parts stores) sometimes in the boating section.

Keep all the lights seperateon the trailer, turn, brake, running.

Don't bother with a converter, they don't work with the Spyder's can bus system.

I ran my plug out under the license plate and when not in use it tucks under the plate out of site.
 
wiring

The guy you bought the hitch from carries converter that pulls its own 12v from the battery, so u can run any lights you want .its like $50.00. just contact him,
 
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