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Trailer lights

Two cats

New member
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Fuses are usually ok it's the trailer module that has been known to fail, poor grounding. Some improvements have been made but some still pop up.
 
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The bike's wiring harness needs to have an isolator module so that the trailer lights are powered separately from the bike's lights. If it's a factory install it should be okay.
 
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

What kind of wiring harness for the trailer do you have installed in your Spyder?

If it is the oem harness then the 10 amp fuse in the fuse box is plenty. Some aftermarket ones are not isolated and I would not recommend those. Some aftermarket ones are isolated but do not use the trailer fuse in in the spyder and have a separate power lead and fuse.

Need more info.
 
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Generally speaking, fuses are sized based on the current capacity of the wiring it is protecting. Using larger fuses than spec'd risks overloading the circuit wiring.
 
What kind of wiring harness for the trailer do you have installed in your Spyder?

If it is the oem harness then the 10 amp fuse in the fuse box is plenty. Some aftermarket ones are not isolated and I would not recommend those. Some aftermarket ones are isolated but do not use the trailer fuse in in the spyder and have a separate power lead and fuse.

Need more info.
it is a plug and play harness I bought from can am spyder accessories in Canada with the isolator bilt into it. The only lights the trailer has is 1 LED on each side for turn ,brake, and running lights. And a tag light that is a led also.
 
it is a plug and play harness I bought from can am spyder accessories in Canada with the isolator bilt into it. The only lights the trailer has is 1 LED on each side for turn ,brake, and running lights. And a tag light that is a led also.

Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated. So the first possible issue is hyperflash of the signal lights. Since the trailer is all leds you may be OK there. Second, as long as all the trailer wiring is in very good condition it will be fine. But if there is a short circuit in any of the trailer circuits. One of the fuses will blow. Instead of inconvenience of having the lights not working on the trailer. It can cause The same lights to fail on the Spyder, warning lights to come on and the Spyder to go into limp mode. Easily fixed by disconnecting the trailer and replacing the fuse. But still. Do not put in bigger fuses. Since the turn signal/hazard lights go through the gage cluster. If your damage that. It's $800 to fix.
 
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Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated. So the first possible issue is hyperflash of the signal lights. Since the trailer is all leds you may be OK there. Second, as long as all the trailer wiring is in very good condition it will be fine. But if there is a short circuit in any of the trailer circuits. One of the fuses will blow. Instead of inconvenience of having the lights not working on the trailer. It can cause The same lights to fail on the Spyder, warning lights to come on and the Spyder to go into limp mode. Easily fixed by disconnecting the trailer and replacing the fuse. But still. Do not put in bigger fuses. Since the turn signal/hazard lights go through the gage cluster. If your damage that. It's $800 to fix.
thanks so much. I was worried that it would start blowing fuses. It's a new trailer, wiring harness is run thru the tong and wrapped in plastic tubing all the way through. I just got all this finally put together this past week. It's been in pieces in my basement since November. Again thanks for all the info from everyone
 
thanks so much. I was worried that it would start blowing fuses. It's a new trailer, wiring harness is run thru the tong and wrapped in plastic tubing all the way through. I just got all this finally put together this past week. It's been in pieces in my basement since November. Again thanks for all the info from everyone
You really do need to get a plug & play harness for the bike that has an isolator in it. The turn signals on the RT are powered from the cluster with no fuse in the line. If you connect the trailer wires to the bike turn signals and later have a short there is a possibility that you may damage the cluster. If that happens you're looking at about an $800 repair bill. Get the isolator.
 
Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated.

You really do need to get a plug & play harness for the bike that has an isolator in it.
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! :banghead: I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it! :thumbup:

Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.
 
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! :banghead: I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it! :thumbup:

Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.

It is not a clone of the brp harness. He is using the wrong module. That is a 5 to 4 converter. There is no power isolation. look and count the wires going into the module. There are only 5. Where is the power wire?

This picture is from Canam Spyder Accessories website.
trailer harness.jpg

It is a nice looking and appears to be a well made, plug and play harness. I wonder why he choose not to spend the extra 10 bucks on the right module.

PS I just looked up each module on amazon.com. The correct module is $30 more then the one he is using.
 
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The correct module

This is the module that BRP is using. This is what pierre should be using or another brand equivalent.
converter 1.jpg

This is what pierre is actually using.

converter 2.jpg
 
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! :banghead: I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it! :thumbup:

Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.
no mine has the isolator separate from the 4 way pigtail. My wife found it on ebay. It is a plug and play for a RT that did come from canada. She said it cost 89:00 dollar on ebay. The plug for the trailer comes off the isolator . a little black box with a place to mount it with a screw and stickie tape on the back
 
no mine has the isolator separate from the 4 way pigtail. My wife found it on ebay. It is a plug and play for a RT that did come from canada. She said it cost 89:00 dollar on ebay. The plug for the trailer comes off the isolator . a little black box with a place to mount it with a screw and stickie tape on the back

Got a picture with a clear view of all the wires going into the module. I see there are a bunch on Ebay. Some of the vendors are saying they are isolated but they are not.
 
Got a picture with a clear view of all the wires going into the module. I see there are a bunch on Ebay. Some of the vendors are saying they are isolated but they are not.
ok is there any where to buy isolators at. Auto shop or online. Any help would be useful.
 
ok is there any where to buy isolators at. Auto shop or online. Any help would be useful.

Let's make sure first. Get a picture or vendor name.
Another idea is to remove the trailer fuse. See your owner's guide. With the fuse removed the trailer lights should not work.
 
Let's make sure first. Get a picture or vendor name.
Another idea is to remove the trailer fuse. See your owner's guide. With the fuse removed the trailer lights should not work.
ok thanks,i'll try that and see what happens. If they still work is that bad or good
 
It is not a clone of the brp harness. He is using the wrong module. That is a 5 to 4 converter. There is no power isolation. look and count the wires going into
the module. There are only 5. Where is the power wire?
You are so right, and I am so wrong!!!
I let myself get duped by the fact his harness plugs into the Spyder harness. :banghead:
 
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