Trailer Light Control Module for 2015 RT-S

[Johnny_Swindle]

Returned from an extended trip on the spyder and on the last leg of the trip we lost trailer lights. After checking the fuse on the spyder and checking the trailer to make sure that it was working, it appears the light control module on the spyder has died.

I am currently waiting on the parts department at my dealer to call me back with a price. Does anyone have a suggestion for a non-BRP control module/solution? The trailer uses traditional incandescent bulbs.



Thanks....

 

[Copperman]

Returned from an extended trip on the spyder and on the last leg of the trip we lost trailer lights. After checking the fuse on the spyder and checking the trailer to make sure that it was working, it appears the light control module on the spyder has died.

I am currently waiting on the parts department at my dealer to call me back with a price. Does anyone have a suggestion for a non-BRP control module/solution? The trailer uses traditional incandescent bulbs.



Thanks....

Is it a BRP hitch and module?

What kind of trailer do you have? Could it be the trailer making the module die? I've been pulling a trailer for three years and have never had a module problem? I had a Nomad from Mini Trailer USA for a year and an RT-622 for two years with never a problem.

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

Yes....it is a BRP hitch and module.

The trailer is an after market trailer. Unfortunately, the manufacturer went out of business shortly after I purchased it. I suspect that the trailer has insufficient/poor grounding that caused the module to die. Kind of an expensive way to find out (IMHO) it needs additional grounding.

Is it a BRP hitch and module?

What kind of trailer do you have? Could it be the trailer making the module die? I've been pulling a trailer for three years and have never had a module problem? I had a Nomad from Mini Trailer USA for a year and an RT-622 for two years with never a problem.

 

[Phil]

I've looked, and there doesn't seem to be a non-BRP on the market (someone is obviously making it for them).
I've gone through 2 modules and learned this the hard way-
TURN OFF ALL POWER WHEN CONNECTING AND DISCONNECTING THE TRAILER'S ELECTRICAL PLUG!

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Show Chrome or Big Bike Parts makes a replacement module that bypasses the BRP computer and runs directly off the battery

Cruzr Joe

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

It only shows up to year model 2014......but will keep looking.

Show Chrome or Big Bike Parts makes a replacement module that bypasses the BRP computer and runs directly off the battery

Cruzr Joe

 

[Cruzr Joe]

14, 15 & 16 are the same i believe.

Cruzr Joe

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

Excellent....will wait to see what the dealer will quote me for a replacement moduke.

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[Snowbelt Spyder]

It only shows up to year model 2014......but will keep looking.

The installation instructions for that unit indicate 2010 - Newer. They were dated February 2016. You might want to call them, but I think that's the right one.

http://www.bigbikeparts.com/templates/product.aspx?ProductGuid=41-162&GroupGuid=669

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

I don't disagree.....but mine failed while I was riding. Never disconnected or reconnected during the trip. Motorist came along side of me and shouted that the trailer lights were not working.

I've looked, and there doesn't seem to be a non-BRP on the market (someone is obviously making it for them).
I've gone through 2 modules and learned this the hard way-
TURN OFF ALL POWER WHEN CONNECTING AND DISCONNECTING THE TRAILER'S ELECTRICAL PLUG!

 

[OverHillAndDale]

I have the Big Bike Parts module and it works very well. Two items to note:

• It provides separate circuits for turn signals, brake lights and running lights (5 wire)
• It does not come with a connector to the trailer. You can either scavenge the current one or pick one up at most any auto-parts store.

The harness is electrically isolated from your other lighting and you'll have to run a wire to your battery. I cut the clip end off of a big zip tie, drilled a hole in one end and used it to pull the wires through.

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

The current set up use 4 wires so I will need to investigate how to make it work with 4.

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[billybovine]

Buy a new isolator/converter module from a well stocked auto parts store or trailer shop. BRP uses a Hopkins module but the brand does not matter. Unplug the module from the Spyder. Cut out the old module from the plugs and splice in the new module to the old plugs. Reinstall.

Then on your trailer. Check to see if a ground wire runs from the plug all the way to the main rear lights. It can be attached to ground points along the way. That's fine but a wire has to go all the way to the lights.

 

[Johnny_Swindle]

Thanks....will give that serious consideration.

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[sjcpanther]

Keep us posted on your dealer recommendation. I have recently experienced the same problem.

I'm kind of wary about installing this kit myself, so I may be at my dealer's mercy. I sure don't want another BRP harness though, if it keeps blowing.

My trailer is an Aluma XL aftermarket.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Show Chrome or Big Bike Parts makes a replacement module that bypasses the BRP computer and runs directly off the battery

Cruzr Joe

Actually the BRP module runs from the battery through the fuse box. There is a dedicated fuse and wire in the harness to the connector that provides power for the trailer lights. All the modules have the same computer connection in that the power to the bike turn signals comes from the cluster, and that power is tapped into to operate the switch in the module that feeds the trailer turn signals.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Buy a new isolator/converter module from a well stocked auto parts store or trailer shop. BRP uses a Hopkins module but the brand does not matter. Unplug the module from the Spyder. Cut out the old module from the plugs and splice in the new module to the old plugs. Reinstall.

Then on your trailer. Check to see if a ground wire runs from the plug all the way to the main rear lights. It can be attached to ground points along the way. That's fine but a wire has to go all the way to the lights.

:agree: What you want is an isolator/converter with 5 wire input and 4 wire output.