• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Towing the CanAm Spyder

Rampage Lift

Interesting and low cost solution. Also a Rampage Power Lift Ramp can be mounted sideways on the back of Class A motorhomes. www.rampagelift.com. Cost is much higher, but works very well. Full disclosure is that we make this, so just putting it out for thought.

I've got the Rampage Lift I bought from Frank. Works great. Have it in the back of a Ford F-250 and tow the F-250 behind the motorhome. I have it setup so that all I have to do is remove the pads required for the Spyder (4 bolts and nuts) and then I can load my Can Am Commander Side X Side in the back instead of the Spyder. It lifts it from the ground into the back of the truck with a winch so no worry about having to drive it up any type of ramp.
 
Mounting sideways on the back of a motorhome

I'd just get a trailer to put it on or one to put it into.

On I-90 today, I saw a motorhome going the opposite way. It had an RT on a rack at the rear and hoisted high up, then a car on a tow-bar. I'd be interested in knowing more about that rack.

Another approach. This can also be done for a SpyderCC lift (1).jpgIMG_0031.jpg. When worked out correctly, you can tow through the center receiver.
 

Attachments

  • CC lift (3).jpg
    CC lift (3).jpg
    96 KB · Views: 34
All of the above...

Here's my question...if you should have to back up the motorhome how visible is the spyder if you don't have a backup cam....?? would work in a pinch but not for the long haul...I watch the motor homes drag the :cus: end some have wheelie bars....:roflblack:
 
Good way to overload the suspension, towing capacity, and braking capacity of the MH.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Possibly but I have seen configurations where RV pulled trailer had boat, bike & car :sour: Had to do a double take as I passed fyi was a combination of these, the boat has to be on top & if there is deep enough launch,. I'm assuming it was a custom built trailer, but if you got the toys:2thumbs: Yes I saw it at a casino parking lot. :p
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    55.6 KB · Views: 65
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 59
Whatever you are thinking about doing regarding an RV and towing, go to www.RV.org and read up on all the aspects of using an RV that you need to consider. Here's a quote from their discussion of Class A motorhomes.

Although wheelbase is the primary factor for highway stability, many class A motor homes are all over the road because they are overloaded on front or rear or both axles. Almost everyone we contact in the RV arena acknowledges that most class A motor homes are close to capacity when they leave the factory. They acknowledge it but don't know what to do about it. The manufacturers are overloading the chassis for marketing purposes and they can do so with impunity. We've seen the proliferation of large slideouts and more and more heavy options even though many chassis cannot support the extra weight. It often appears that manufacturers are engaged in a race to continually upgrade their chassis fast enough to offset the addition of slideouts and options — and losing that race.


classA_short-wheelbase_overhang.jpg
Most consumers do not understand that motor home chassis have very severe limitations when it comes to weight and balance. Most do not know that motor homes do not respond well to adverse road conditions when loaded to or beyond the capacity of the axles. Our advice is simple: Buy and use only motor homes that have highway safety ratings of at least 80. As you study the RV Ratings Guide, it should be clear that motor homes with ratings of less than 70 are not forgiving to mechanical failure or the small mistakes that we're apt to make when we're tired or distracted.
 
Just saw this on another site, any thoughts?

http://www.motorcycle-rack.com/CanAm_Tow_System.html
First off if I wanted that I would built it my self with about 50 in materials and second spyders won't back there way out of most anything let alone a steep slick medal ramp I'm sure that unless you used dips to tilt the tow rig you would have to winch the spyder up the ramp the windshield issue can be solved with putting a bungee arround the top of windshield and pulling it even with preload to the handlebars I've had my spyder backwards on a trailer like this a lot no problems
 
Some have used Dzus fasteners on the Front Air Dam

Just saw this on another site, any thoughts?

http://www.motorcycle-rack.com/CanAm_Tow_System.html

* Some have used Dzus fasteners on the Front Air Dam, to remove and replace it more easily, when towing with this unit.
They also sell a folding Trailer for the Can-Am Spyders... ( Jackpiner)
 
Towing CanAm

Here is another option, there are several company's that make swivel wheel trailers that you can back up and they don't jack-knife
DSC04658.JPG
 
Back
Top