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Topping off brake fluid - how to access reservoir(s)?

StealthSpyder

New member
Hey guys,

I'm getting a non-stop brake failure across the screen of my 2012 RSS. Initially I could have sworn it was saying something about my parking brake, but maybe it was because I was engaging or disengaging the parking brake when the error first started flashing. It has not gone away, ever, since it appeared, unlike the users that have seen it be an intermittent failure message.

My research on the forums have shown that it's likely related to low brake fluid...do you all agree given my symptoms? I bought a good dot4 fluid and some glass eye droppers on amazon and they'll be here in a couple days.

What I need to know now is how to find, and access, the brake reservoirs. Why are there two? I assume I'll make sure to top both off? I've read all about orienting the "V" to the rear (vents). I'll make sure I don't overfill because I don't want it leaking and eating my paint!

Thanks for any help you can give me in getting to the brake reservoirs!

SS
 
Just pop your seat up, and scrunch yourself down into the rearmost area underneath it... :D
Please be aware of how the caps are oriented: there is a right, and wrong way; to put them back on. nojoke
 
Little checking..!!

:agree: they will be on the right side to the rear under the seat. Clean the area well before removing the caps so no debris gets in. Other things to check, make sure you allow the computer time to reset by removing the key for awhile say fourty five minutes or so. Check that the brake lights are working and not staying on. While ryding make sure your not resting your foot on the brake pedal and if after adding fluid, if needed, the warning does not go away check the fluid level sensors. You also can check the park brake for proper operation. All of this can cause the brake failure light as well as worn out brakes...:thumbup:
 
BRAKE CAPS

WARNING......Brake fluid is like ACID........and make sure you completely clean the CAPS and area around them before you open them..........Mike :thumbup:
 
I like and agree with all previous posters. But you should also wonder if levels
are low because pads are worn out. that or a leak.
 
Agree but more

:agree: But sorry if you have NOT ever added break fluid to you spyder, not knowing where, I speculate there will be more wrong than just fluid low or pads. After you get that done do youself a favor & visit dealer for what ever milage service you are close to. & get tech to give you a walkaround like you just bought new. KNOW your bike & check regular. :banghead:Is what that :cus: safety card is all about. & good practice for any vehicle you want to LAST.
 
The level sensors can also stick.
You have to make certain each white float is free and able to return to the topped off position.

So I have purchased some DOT4 brake fluid and some eye droppers and added fluid to each reservoir to where I thought it was nice and full. I could clearly and easily see both fluid levels before even adding anything, I would have thought they were full if I didn't know a half ounce would make a difference, etc. That being said, I added more to each one, as much as I thought would be reasonable and didn't want to overfill either. Oriented caps the right way as best as I could tell...and it did not fix the error.

I'm wondering if it is something to do with the level sensors/white floats being free and able to return to the topped off position, as quoted above.

How do I go about checking that aspect? I didn't even see any white floats, but then again, I wasn't looking for any and may have not even realized what I was seeing/what they were etc.

Hate to bring her in to the shop for an easy fix, she's running perfect, brakes work like a gem as they always have. Just wish I could get rid of this annoying break failure error flashing across my screen nonstop when I'm riding!! :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
So I have purchased some DOT4 brake fluid and some eye droppers and added fluid to each reservoir to where I thought it was nice and full. I could clearly and easily see both fluid levels before even adding anything, I would have thought they were full if I didn't know a half ounce would make a difference, etc. That being said, I added more to each one, as much as I thought would be reasonable and didn't want to overfill either. Oriented caps the right way as best as I could tell...and it did not fix the error.

I'm wondering if it is something to do with the level sensors/white floats being free and able to return to the topped off position, as quoted above.

How do I go about checking that aspect? I didn't even see any white floats, but then again, I wasn't looking for any and may have not even realized what I was seeing/what they were etc.

Hate to bring her in to the shop for an easy fix, she's running perfect, brakes work like a gem as they always have. Just wish I could get rid of this annoying break failure error flashing across my screen nonstop when I'm riding!! :banghead::banghead::banghead:

There are more issues that cause a brake failure message then fluid level. It would be helpful if you could get the fault code. When the display is showing the brake failure message follow these steps.


  • With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.
  • Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
  • If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
  • If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
  • If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
 
There are more issues that cause a brake failure message then fluid level. It would be helpful if you could get the fault code. When the display is showing the brake failure message follow these steps.


  • With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.
  • Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
  • If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
  • If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
  • If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

Thanks for this. I just tried it however and for the life of me I could not get it to respond. It never flashed any code and never said no active fault code. It just kept scrolling brake failure. That was frustrating, I don't know why it wouldn't respond. I clearly pressed and held the mode button while rapidly pressing the highbeam flash button. I varied my speeds and tried it every which way and it simply didn't work. I made sure it was on total hours too of course. I don't know what's going on?

I also put more brake fluid in...probably too much now lol. I also checked the white floats...they're present in both reservoirs and working perfectly.

At a loss!
 
Thanks for this. I just tried it however and for the life of me I could not get it to respond. It never flashed any code and never said no active fault code. It just kept scrolling brake failure. That was frustrating, I don't know why it wouldn't respond. I clearly pressed and held the mode button while rapidly pressing the highbeam flash button. I varied my speeds and tried it every which way and it simply didn't work. I made sure it was on total hours too of course. I don't know what's going on?

I also put more brake fluid in...probably too much now lol. I also checked the white floats...they're present in both reservoirs and working perfectly.

At a loss!

Too much brake fluid will not cause a brake failure message. It will just make a mess and strip off paint. Brake fluid is water soluble so can be clean with water.

It is a pain in the a** procedure. I have not had my RS for 3 years, but from what I remember the last press and hold of the mode button had to be when it changed to total hrs. Not go to total hrs then hold mode button. So you had to figure out when it was coming up for the last press. Then 5 high beam flashes in less 2 seconds.
 
Too much brake fluid will not cause a brake failure message. It will just make a mess and strip off paint. Brake fluid is water soluble so can be clean with water.

It is a pain in the a** procedure. I have not had my RS for 3 years, but from what I remember the last press and hold of the mode button had to be when it changed to total hrs. Not go to total hrs then hold mode button. So you had to figure out when it was coming up for the last press. Then 5 high beam flashes in less 2 seconds.

I tried this fruitlessly for over 10 minutes, doing exactly as you said to no avail. Not sure my spyder has that capability and if it does, maybe unlocking the code is needed to be done some other way? Any other ideas? I really wanted to pull the code so we could figure out what is making the computer scroll the brake failure message! :banghead:
 
I tried this fruitlessly for over 10 minutes, doing exactly as you said to no avail. Not sure my spyder has that capability and if it does, maybe unlocking the code is needed to be done some other way? Any other ideas? I really wanted to pull the code so we could figure out what is making the computer scroll the brake failure message! :banghead:

That is the correct procedure for your Spyder. Maybe let someone else try. :dontknow: The different perspective may help. Spyder dealers can read the codes whether active or occurred. That may be your next step.
 
I am dealing with this issue right now. Everything has been fine, but now my parking brake will not hold the bike in place. The brakes seem to work fine though. Did you ever figure out what was going on?

Just askin'............
 
brake failure light

Thanks to you guys for alerting me to the fact that the brake fluid sensors are ultra-sensitive! I've been fighting the fear of brake failure due to the "failure" message on the instrument panel, and guess what?....a tablespoon of brake fluid added to the rear reservoir was the magic potion to put the warnings to bed.
jb
 
I had this problem on my RT and had to take it to the dealer, it was showing a code for low hydraulic pressure in the brakes. 3 minutes on BUDS to reset it. Take it to the dealer.
 
Just curious how long have you had you bike & just now looking at brake fluid level?:banghead::lecturef_smilie:
sorry but KNOW YOUR VHICLE!:shocked: Will last longer & be safer cheaper even. Do not have be an expert but least know what to check reguarly & how. The safty data card (you press mode button saying you read & did every time you start your bike)is to check just that. Dont be the person that only knows how to drive & put gas in. :helpsmilie:
 
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