Paul - first I'd like to Thank you for your civility in your two ( above ) posts , others here can't seem to control themselves :yikes:, one of whom is now in a " time-out "...…. The short non-hyper technical answer is A. because they don't have to provide that info …. and B.- the answer is almost meaningless in terms of normal riding. ….. Under Racing circumstances this info would be gathered by each individual Team for their use in determining what works best for their vehicle and specific driver ( yes it's that technical )….But for everyday use the variables are so large , the manufacturers are only concerned about getting within certain parameters' of the safe range …… most of this info is considered " Proprietary " and therefore not divulged..... Are Heat signatures important - Yes , but they aren't critical. Not in the sense that is really meaningful..... The Basic Build criteria for Auto tires is met by ALL manufacturers who are more concerned with OVER-Loading the tires than with Under-stressing them. What I and I'm sure Peter Aawen do is use what we know about the Entire PSI thing and how it relates to tires ( in general ) and come up with a Well educated estimate of what Should work best for our Spyders..... To the best of my knowledge No-one has done any technical testing of Auto tires on Spyders and probably never will.....People are looking for answers/info that doesn't exist, and some of them get their Panties in a Wad because their Questions aren't being answered.....Hope this helped answer your questions ....................................................On another note: A few years back I sought your advice on the Shock Angle thing I was working on, because I …..THOUGHT …. you had worked for OHLINS ..... If I remember correctly, I NEVER asked you to prove your level of Expertise about your knowledge base. I was intelligent enough to assume that if some company was smart enough to hire you THEY did their homework about it !!!!...... So what Gaul's me, is the fact the I'm Badgered about Proving my credentials. Except for one time, I've never asked them to prove theirs......... To supply the info THEY have required, I would have to go to the Landfill where this stuff has been buried for over three decades.... My X - deposited it there long before the divorce became Legal ........ Mike :thumbup:
I have read, and reread your reply several times.
I am going to avoid focus on any of the issues or remarks concerning proving credentials, others attitude or treatment towards others etc.
Tire pressures. To enter a worthy reply, first off, I disagree with portions of you recent reply. Unlike you, I do believe vehicle oems derive correct tire pressure based on tread temperatures across the tread. Myself I can not see any other means to validate the tire is not overheated or improperly inflated. With a base pressure gained from temp testing, that pressure can carry over into load testing. Understand, we all realize the vehicle manufacturers and tire companies have a lot of baseline data. So, essentially, if the know a tire size, a vehicle weight, and intended use, they can “suggest” a very educated cold tire pressure to begin with.
From that cold tire pressure, they can validate as needed, if the cold tire pressure is accurate.
At the oem level, if they are validating a cold tire pressure to be accurate, and this is the key question, how exactly do they determine if they got the cold tire pressure value correct. Comedians will say with a gauge, but seriously what do we believe they use. A tire temp signature acroos the tread or something else.
Vehicle weight, this one variable differs so widely between cars, trucks, motorcycles, and Spyders. Weight generates heat. Heat increases tire pressure. A car, heavier than a Spyder, will generate more heat into the tire. If we are in a quest to see a 4 psi increase in pressure as a result of heat, the lighter vehicle begins with a handicap. From what is published, it is accepted data that tires with lower pressure generate more heat, and underinflated tires should be avoid to prevent failures, probably from heat related concerns. Therefore, accepting the light vehicle is at a disadvantage to generate heat into the tire, it seems using the lower tire pressure is to overcome the disadvantage and generate heat, and with that, increased pressure.
But wait, there’s more, if the tire tread and casing are generating heat as it rolls, and we are expecting a certain pressure increase, should we not worry if portion of the tires edge tread is running notably hotter than the tires center?
Everything I found regarding a 4 psi increase was in reference to cars. Also, each reference was regarding pressure checks with hot tires, saying 4 psi hot should give proper cold tire pressure. This was on a heavy car. Simply not sure how relevent the difference between weights is.
Welcome back! 
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hyea:
