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Time to cut the tupperware.

Dat Guy

New member
So I have to do SOMETHING to relieve the right foot heat. I have a 2013 RT and I bought the lower block off plate from Spyderpops, but before I put it on and restrict the airflow I want to try cutting vent holes in the plastic directly behind the radiator fan. If that doesn't help then I'll add the lower block off plate too. I've read a lot about this, but I have a few questions about doing it.

1. With hot air now flowing directly under the body of the Spyder, has anyone who has done this noticed increased heat under the seat?

2. How did you get the to the plastic part to cut the holes? What did you use to do it?

3. Has anyone who has done it regretted it?

4. Are there any other or better options?


I'm doing my best to make this a comfortable, rideable machine. Any tips or other advice before I break out the tools and start cutting away would be appreciated.
 
On pre 2013's you could remove the lower panel under the radiator. No panel like that on 2013. Cutting holes and adding more heat to the engine compartment isn't something that I would do. You can cut holes and remove the bottom panel that the evap hose goes through but you have electrical connectors under there that I would not want to expose to water. The block offs were a viable solution for pre 2013's not so much for the 2013 IMHO. There are some members that have cut giant holes in the swoop but I haven't heard much about the success of it lately.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ck-off-plate-and-2013-RT&highlight=swoop+hole

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?52776-Hot-foot-problem&highlight=swoop+hole
 
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I think cutting the back out would put a huge amount where you dont want it, under the tupperware. I thought that most cut the bottom plastic to force the hot air down and out. If you got the ECM update and it has done nothing for the heat why not give BRP a call and ask what their next move would be.
 
Early in the history of the Spyder some owners had improvement by fabricating a deflector at the radiator outlet vents, to deflect the air away from the right foot. Not sure if it would work as well with footboards as it did with pegs. Others had found improvement with Baker Air Wings. I, too would be leery of cutting holes that might increase the heat in the engine compartment, or cause problems with other components.
 
So I have to do SOMETHING to relieve the right foot heat. I have a 2013 RT and I bought the lower block off plate from Spyderpops, but before I put it on and restrict the airflow I want to try cutting vent holes in the plastic directly behind the radiator fan. If that doesn't help then I'll add the lower block off plate too. I've read a lot about this, but I have a few questions about doing it.

1. With hot air now flowing directly under the body of the Spyder, has anyone who has done this noticed increased heat under the seat?

2. How did you get the to the plastic part to cut the holes? What did you use to do it?

3. Has anyone who has done it regretted it?

4. Are there any other or better options?


I'm doing my best to make this a comfortable, rideable machine. Any tips or other advice before I break out the tools and start cutting away would be appreciated.

Hello, I had a terribly hot right foot on my 2012 RT Limited...I put in the top blocking plate and modified the back of the internal area with a hole and vented that area to the bottom...my foot stayed relatively cool and never had a problem with overheading. Best wishes for a successful operation on your Spyder....

I made a large hole (about 4"x6") so the fan can blow the heat below and then I screened the lower plastic bottom guard to prevent rocks, debri from entering....seemed to work well for me. Also left the bottom hole open for venting on the right side. We drove that 2012 Spyder 7,650 miles that way...no problems at all....sorry, my pic size is too large to add......good luck!
 
Pro-Comp Fan.jpgSecondary Fan.jpg

One other idea I have been kicking around is adding a small automotive grade fan in the right side that will basically blow the hot air out far enough so that it doesn't come right onto my foot. the one pictured is a pro-comp 7" that might fit in the hole... some fabrication of a mount will be necessary. If I could find a 6", that would be easier to try to fit...

I would need to get the 2014 right hand grill to help protect the fan. The theory is that the extra boost from the second fan would get the hot air out around the foot. Could be manually controlled or could automate it somehow.
 
Interesting stuff.

Perhaps I should just add the lower block off plate without cutting the holes first? Has anyone had success with this? In my mind, it seems that if I'm restricting airflow from one area it needs to be vented in another, but maybe the upper hole is large enough to accommodate the escaping hot air without having to cut anything. Thoughts?
 
Hello, I had a terribly hot right foot on my 2012 RT Limited...I put in the top blocking plate and modified the back of the internal area with a hole and vented that area to the bottom...my foot stayed relatively cool and never had a problem with overheading. Best wishes for a successful operation on your Spyder....

I made a large hole (about 4"x6") so the fan can blow the heat below and then I screened the lower plastic bottom guard to prevent rocks, debri from entering....seemed to work well for me. Also left the bottom hole open for venting on the right side. We drove that 2012 Spyder 7,650 miles that way...no problems at all....sorry, my pic size is too large to add......good luck!

Hello, I was able to find a picture and resize it for you to show you how I modified my 2012 RT Limited for heat venting.....you can see I cut the large hole to allow heat to escape to the bottom and then took the bottom plastic guard and made several large holes in it to let the air vent. I added a screen to make sure stones or debri didn't get up in there...good luck with you modifications....
 

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Take a look at this I ordered one and am going to try a couple of ideas in progression with it. At worst I will have a right side grille.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?62589-2014-RH-Grill-on-2013-RTS
Wow. This looks like it might be the way to go.


Hello, I was able to find a picture and resize it for you to show you how I modified my 2012 RT Limited for heat venting.....you can see I cut the large hole to allow heat to escape to the bottom and then took the bottom plastic guard and made several large holes in it to let the air vent. I added a screen to make sure stones or debri didn't get up in there...good luck with you modifications....
Thanks for the picture.
 
Wow. This looks like it might be the way to go.



Thanks for the picture.


No problem, glad to help....good luck and be careful when cutting that inner well area. I basically laid it out and marked it with a permanent marker.... then CAREFULLY drilled holes in each corner making sure I knew what was behind it so I did not damage anything. Have the lower plastic panel off so you can see where you're drilling it - start conservatively and work outward as you need to...then continue to connect the holes in each corner by sawing it with a rotozip blade (or equivalent).....scary, but worked well, just take your time. The bottom plastic panel is very easy to remove and I did that on the bench drilling many large holes and made sure not too close to keep the integrity of the panel. Then I placed stainless steel screen over it and pop riveted it together. Like I said, we rode it all throughout 2013 without any issues and my foot stayed cooler. Remember, I did put the top blocking plate on it and I also used highway pegs (NBV's with Widow Pegs) which gave me options to move my feet from the riders pegs to the highway pegs.... good luck with your mod...
 
Remember that the 2010-2012 RT and the 2013 are not the same. The 2013's have some different panels, especially underneath, a different frame layout, and they already have more than enough heat inside the engine tupperware. You are going to have to have adequate venting, as you surmised, but be careful where you place the vent. I don't know if your leg would take the added heat if you block the lower vent instead of the top, but I think it would be worth a try. Just watch the temperature gauge to see that you don't overheat the coolant. A lot will depend on the type of riding you do. In town and highway riding affect the air (& heat) flow differently and produce different engine operating temperatures (as well as make the cooling fan cycle differently). Before you decide to cut any holes, see what a replacement panel will cost. Whatever you do should be able to be reversed if it doesn't work out.
 
Remember that the 2010-2012 RT and the 2013 are not the same. The 2013's have some different panels, especially underneath, a different frame layout, and they already have more than enough heat inside the engine tupperware. You are going to have to have adequate venting, as you surmised, but be careful where you place the vent. I don't know if your leg would take the added heat if you block the lower vent instead of the top, but I think it would be worth a try. Just watch the temperature gauge to see that you don't overheat the coolant. A lot will depend on the type of riding you do. In town and highway riding affect the air (& heat) flow differently and produce different engine operating temperatures (as well as make the cooling fan cycle differently). Before you decide to cut any holes, see what a replacement panel will cost. Whatever you do should be able to be reversed if it doesn't work out.

Thanks for helping with clarifications on the 2013....I can only speak for what I did on my 2012 RT.....anyways, you're right about the vents...the top vent blocking plate worked great for me on the 2012 RT as I had the highway pegs that were at the height of the top plate, so the hot air went below my feet.

Caution is always needed when modifying your products, especially safety concerns....I'm only sharing what I did to help let people know some options so they can make the right decision that works for them....you made some very valid comments and concerns....thanks.
 
I really enjoy your methodical approach! :2thumbs:
Please let us know what you do, and what the results are; good luck, :thumbup:
 
Have you done the new update?? If fixes a lot of the heat now, and bike runs a lot better to..so ck with your dealer on the up date get it done. Will be happier. Iam not so dam hot...
 
Interesting stuff.

Perhaps I should just add the lower block off plate without cutting the holes first? Has anyone had success with this? In my mind, it seems that if I'm restricting airflow from one area it needs to be vented in another, but maybe the upper hole is large enough to accommodate the escaping hot air without having to cut anything. Thoughts?

Blocking the lower hole will provide relief up to a point below 90 degrees. Once ambient temps go into the 90's and above. A new problem arises. Heat soak. The block off plate and all the plastic surrouding it will now radiate heat, due to heat soak(a condition that worsens when in town or stop and go traffic). Even at speed the heat soak can not be disipated because in those temps the thermostat is constantly cycling. Which roughly means there is a steady flow of 200 degree air into the radiator air flow cavity(where the upper and lower holes are). Plus heat radiating off the pavement in high ambient temps is going to be approximately 160+ degrees. This heat maintains that temprature for two plus feet above the pavement surface.

Hope this gives you something to think about before you start cutting things. If you care to discuss it further. PM me.

Jer
 
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View attachment 83559View attachment 83560

One other idea I have been kicking around is adding a small automotive grade fan in the right side that will basically blow the hot air out far enough so that it doesn't come right onto my foot. the one pictured is a pro-comp 7" that might fit in the hole... some fabrication of a mount will be necessary. If I could find a 6", that would be easier to try to fit...

I would need to get the 2014 right hand grill to help protect the fan. The theory is that the extra boost from the second fan would get the hot air out around the foot. Could be manually controlled or could automate it somehow.






I know from experience that this solution is a very good heat solution.
the second fan blowing the heat under the tupperware away.
in another thread, I had already been described.
holes cut in the plastic is only the heat to blow out, so keep the heat trapped under the tupperware.
it is better to dissipate the heat from the block to go.
the use of a second fan while driving slowly is going to reduce the general temperature below the tupperware.
My experience is that blocking the heat does not give the desired result.
but breathe more fresh air under the tupperware
under my rt 2012 I still good results
 
I know from experience that this solution is a very good heat solution.
the second fan blowing the heat under the tupperware away.
in another thread, I had already been described.
holes cut in the plastic is only the heat to blow out, so keep the heat trapped under the tupperware.
it is better to dissipate the heat from the block to go.
the use of a second fan while driving slowly is going to reduce the general temperature below the tupperware.
My experience is that blocking the heat does not give the desired result.
but breathe more fresh air under the tupperware
under my rt 2012 I still good results

oops! forgot something!
the tank really enjoy that fresh air comes.
my experience .... gasoline is not as hot as coffee
 
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