Throttle

[bruiser]

Been noticing lately that my throttle seems to stick occasionally. When I roll off to slow down it sometimes sticks and I have to manually roll it back to the idle stop. Thinking I need to pull the grip off and have a look at the return spring. Anyone else have this issue?

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..!!

I have found the end caps can cause this. If they get to close to the grip or the grip slides back (not as likely). You can pull the grip with throttle tube and add a touch of lube or clear dirt/grime. Throttle spring is usually at the throttle body, at least on the cable operated ones...start with the end caps...did you add lidlox..?? :thumbup:

 

[mcurtright]

I would suggest taking it to the dealer.
Mine was doing the same thing. They replaced
the throttle tube,thought it kind of odd
on a new bike but what do I know.

 

[JayBros]

:agree:

 

[Colin]

There is a small obstruction on the throttle of some F3s, mine had it and it was fixed by my dealer. There may have been a Bulletin about this

 

[Bob Denman]

Jim,
Have you noticed that it's getting easier to roll-on the throttle? :dontknow:
That would be an indication of a weakening return spring...
I'd pop the end cap off, and look for anything that might simply be gumming up the works.
Good luck; please let us know what you find! :thumbup:

 

[BLUEZL600EFI]

Mine does too, mentioned to my dealer he said they have had a couple guys mention it too. We checked bikes on sales floor and some were worse than mine. Plan on having them look at it at my first oil change/check up.

 

[Xyzzy]

The spring under the cap is held in two places. The outer part (pictured below) is easy to line up. The inner part locks into a little hole and it is difficult to get it into that hole because you need to preload the spring.

I have found that the easiest way to get the spring in right is to lock the outer spring as pictured below, without the cap. Then remove the five 3mm hex screws from the grip cover. Then, the grip can be turned beyond the stops so that the spring tip pops into the little hole. (Let me know if you need better instructions.)

You will know when it is done properly because the throttle grip will snap back to the closed position with authority. (There is a smaller spring inside the throttle grip that is very weak. If you are having problems it is because only this internal spring is trying to do all of the work.)

 

[Wildrice]

The spring under the cap is held in two places. The outer part (pictured below) is easy to line up. The inner part locks into a little hole and it is difficult to get it into that hole because you need to preload the spring.

I have found that the easiest way to get the spring in right is to lock the outer spring as pictured below, without the cap. Then remove the five 3mm hex screws from the grip cover. Then, the grip can be turned beyond the stops so that the spring tip pops into the little hole. (Let me know if you need better instructions.)

You will know when it is done properly because the throttle grip will snap back to the closed position with authority. (There is a smaller spring inside the throttle grip that is very weak. If you are having problems it is because only this internal spring is trying to do all of the work.)

I have an F3's--installed heated grips--needed to wd40 to get snappy movement. I'm baffled by the grip spring--i can slide it into the inner hole and outer slot. Explain "preload application". I have rotated the spring to increase tension & that binds up the throttle. currently I'm running without the spring but the throttle movement has increased sensistivity--especially in low gear under 10 mph in parking lots.
Are you implying by preload the spring needs 1/2 turn clockwish or counter clockwise tension increased from normal tension?
Thanks for your help