Throttle body

[bruiser]

I think the throttle body may be about to go tango uniform on the wife's 2010. When it starts it shuts right down. It might take two tries to start it. Then when it's hot it doesn't want to start right away. When it does start it's like it's on choke for a few seconds. Guess it's time to take it to the dealer.

It's not bad gas.There are no codes. Once it's running it's fine. the battery is good. No we can't afford a 2014.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Did you grab the active codes?
P1614 is the partucular one to look out for.

 

[bruiser]

No codes.

 

[Bob Denman]

:yikes: Wow!
It normally lights up with at least three of them...
Well; here's to hoping that it's easily repaired...cehaply! :cheers:
Good luck! :thumbup:

 

[Gunkandpudge]

Throttle body is $1000+ for the part. See if they can clean it before you replace it.
:yikes:

 

[retired1]

If I remember correctly, there was a service bulletin back in '10 dealing with the hot start problem. The update was done on my '10RTS and never did need the Throttle body replaced. JME

 

[Gordy]

tp sensor is replaceable on 2010 had to have mine replaced under best warranty I believe invoice was about $286.00 just had to pay $50.00 deduct.Had 2 codes but cant remember what they were

 

[Rd_Runner]

Hmmmm

I think the throttle body may be about to go tango uniform on the wife's 2010. When it starts it shuts right down. It might take two tries to start it. Then when it's hot it doesn't want to start right away. When it does start it's like it's on choke for a few seconds. Guess it's time to take it to the dealer.

It's not bad gas.There are no codes. Once it's running it's fine. the battery is good. No we can't afford a 2014.

Check the two vacuum lines connected to the MAP sensor.

 

[Magdave]

Check the two vacuum lines connected to the MAP sensor.

:agree: No codes try silicone hoses. :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

Have to agree..!!

check the vaccum hoses, move them bend them and see if you find splits or cracks. This is usually the sourse of the problem....:thumbup:

 

[bruiser]

Replaced vacuum hoses. One (rear) was cracked on the radius but not all the way through. Bike seems to be working ok. Rode it last Saturday on a 125 mile charity ride in high heat. No issues. So, I can only assume that the new hoses fixed it. Note: It never threw a code.

Now, I have to figure out why she doesn't have clutch assist. Fix one thing, another pops up.

 

[finless]

Now, I have to figure out why she doesn't have clutch assist. Fix one thing, another pops up.

I may have the same problem. I cannot tell a difference in clutch force with the bike off vs on.
Service manual has a great section on troubleshooting this. I just have not had the time to do it yet.
Oh and apparently if it is not working it can cause damage to the clutch plates.

Bob

 

[tigerdr]

I had the same problem. Check the air bowl. If you find oil, it's because you put to much oil and after, the bike is harder to start. You must clean the valves. My Can-Am tech use Honda Valve Cleaner and the problem was resolved.

 

[bruiser]

I may have the same problem. I cannot tell a difference in clutch force with the bike off vs on.
Service manual has a great section on troubleshooting this. I just have not had the time to do it yet.
Oh and apparently if it is not working it can cause damage to the clutch plates.

Bob

You are correct. It can cause damage to the clutch pack. She hasn't been driving it. I plan on getting to it in the morning.

 

[finless]

I had the same problem. Check the air bowl. If you find oil, it's because you put to much oil and after, the bike is harder to start. You must clean the valves. My Can-Am tech use Honda Valve Cleaner and the problem was resolved.

Air bowl? I find no reference to that in the manual? You mean the airbox?

Bob

 

[tigerdr]

Yes, the air box...

 

[finless]

Yes, the air box...

OK so the oil runs down into the vaccum line and clogs the control valve?

I am betting that is. Probably been this way since I bought it as when I picked it up it was overfilled and I had to pump some out. It had 450 miles on it over filled.

Bob

 

[tigerdr]

Right...

 

[Rd_Runner]

Vacuum Lines

Replaced vacuum hoses. One (rear) was cracked on the radius but not all the way through. Bike seems to be working ok. Rode it last Saturday on a 125 mile charity ride in high heat. No issues. So, I can only assume that the new hoses fixed it. Note: It never threw a code.

Now, I have to figure out why she doesn't have clutch assist. Fix one thing, another pops up.

I think more people have run issues directly related to the cracked vacuum lines on our Spyders than most realize.
I intended to eventually replace both of mine with high temp silicone lines.