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Thoughts and pointers from my 6900 mile trip - loose hitch ball & safety chains

IdahoMtnSpyder

Active member
Over the next few days I plan to finally write up a couple or so comments about my recent trip from Idaho to Iowa, Illinois, Louisiana, Idaho, and points between. This included stopping at Lamont's BBQ at the Lamonster Garage where I great time visiting with PrairieSpyder, Billybovine, Lamont, and a number of others.

This first post is a caution about hitch balls.

During my return trip I noticed a clunking sound coming from the trailer whenever I started or stopped. At a rest area in Kansas I looked at it and saw that the clamp, or shoe, that holds the coupler to the ball had loosened up. As the coupler was still snug enough to not come off the ball I decided to wait until the next morning when I could find a wrench from a hotel maintenance person, or at a shop, or wherever, to tighten it up. The next morning the best I could do at the hotel was a Vise Grip wrench, which worked good enough to tighten the shoe bolt. I then lifted up the tongue to make sure all was snug. Horror of horrors, the tongue lifted right up about an inch! :gaah:Upon closer examination this is the condition I found. :yikes: :yikes: I recreated the condition after I got home.

Loose bolt.jpg

The first thing that went through my mind is, "THAT'S WHY WE USE SAFETY CHAINS!" With this ball the bolt screws into the ball, and has coarse threads. I tightened it up best I could and the next morning at the next hotel an oil field guy used a long crescent wrench to really cinch it tight. I knew I had to do something to prevent the possibility of having a disaster in the future. After I got home I bought a new hitch ball that has the mounting stud machined as part of the ball and with fine threads. I drilled a hole through it and put the wire clip in there. Now, if the nut works loose it can't come off and the ball can't come off the hitch.

New hitch ball.jpg

While driving in Louisiana someone hollered I was dragging a chain. Sure enough when I stopped to check one of the safety chains had come loose. I bought them from eTrailer Supply when I made the trailer and the S hooks were part of the assembly. Obviously what happened is the hitch, being solid with the swing arm, bounced up and down on rough pavement enough to cause the S hook to jump out. I didn't get too concerned about the situation. But, would you believe it, the very next day while driving Baton Rouge someone hollered I was dragging a chain. I stopped a soon as I could and what did I see but the OTHER chain had come loose. I then knew the hooks were not reliable. The next morning I went to a hardware store and bought the two snap hooks you see in this picture. No more loose safety chains.

Hooks.jpg

The lesson from all this is DON'T take anything for granted with your towing system. What works good today can turn to crap tomorrow! :lecturef_smilie:
 
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YIKES

a whole lot of YIKES...... :yikes:
glad all is well, and can't wait to hear about your endeavors...
dp
 
looks great but i have a concern that the new hooks seem to be lighter in weight and stamina than the original hooks. Thanks for the heads up.

Cruzr joe
 
looks great but i have a concern that the new hooks seem to be lighter in weight and stamina than the original hooks. Thanks for the heads up.

Cruzr joe
They well may be a bit lighter. I haven't really looked that close. On the other hand they lock together at end of the swivel part so I think it would take a helluva lot of pull to tear them open. The hinge pin would probably shear first. I don't know off hand if the next larger hook will fit through the chain. Good point though and something to check out, for sure.
 
Farm supply stores have different kinds of strog "clips". dome screw togeather others snap and they are strong. Just a Thought.
I try to check my trailer/hitch before use in the morning, noon stop and at night (so I will have to find somebodything before leaving in the morning).
Oldmanzues
 
S hooks don't work

We had the same problem with the S hooks on my Wifes Spyder trailer hitch when we did a little test drive with her new trailer we only made it about a quarter mile and one of the S hooks jumped out. we also used some carribeener style hooks so they wouldn't rattle loose.
It is amazing how much vibration is transferred to the trailer hitch on the spyder
The Wife and her sister towed her trailer all the way to Ohio and back and had a few other issues such as one of the trailer tires went bald and had to be replaced must have been running crooked. and the cheap hinges on the flimsy aluminum lid came loose and had to be repaired when they were in Ohio a friend of her brother in law put a continuos piano type hinge on it Good thing they didn't loose the lid on I-90 going 70+ miles an hour.
I am proud of the Girls they did a great job checking all right stuff like oil, tire air pressure, trailer and hitch.
And they will always have that memory of going cross country together on a :spyder2:
 
This may be one instance where BRP is better than the rest, the hooks on the RT-622 stay put, in fact they can be a real pain to get off!
 
Wow..!!

really lucky you were on your toes on this one. Glad you caught all this and corrected it before anything serious happend. Looks like your set up right now..!! :thumbup:
 
:shocked: Thankfully; this was NOT a report filled with long, sad faces... :thumbup:
Hopefully; we live and learn from our mistakes, and pass the lessons on to our friends.
Just as you have done! :clap:
 
Loc-tite on that hitch bolt threads will work, too. Also, when tightening that up you should hold the frame of the hitch in back-up or too much stress against the tire can warp your rear rotor. (ask me how I know this) Glad you caught all that. Could have been really bad.
 
+1 on Doc Humphreys' comment on Loctite. Over a good number of decades pedaling my tail around the country on two wheels or three I learned the first thing to do with any steed, even fresh off the showroom floor, was to remove any bolt/screw that wasn't anchored by a nyloc nut, apply blue Loctite, reinstall and properly torque it. It has been a very pleasant experience with my Spyder to find that BRP has thunk out the vibration issues and liberally uses nyloc fasteners or applies thread locker of some type to threads where it is needed.
 
Threaded D rings work well and do not let go if your trailer does come unhooked. Ask me how I know this:gaah::gaah:
 
My friend is a pilot and does the same "walk around" on his plane before taking off to catch visual issues. It was this brain implant that saved me from loosing my CJ-5 before coming home from Pismo Beach. The ball on my truck had about two rows left of thread before the ball fell off, catching a potential disaster.
 
I also enjoyed meeting you at the BBQ, and I'm glad you made it home OK! It's a good thing you're handy with those things and can make repairs on the road!:thumbup:
 
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