This might slow or stop oil to air box

[krb1945]

None of us like oil getting into the air box. There are several methods of reducing this problem. This is one of the methods I am planning to test if no danger warnings are posted on this thread. This material breathes very good. I insert it into the crank case vent tube from the air box end. You can use a pencil to insert it. I insert it far enough into the vent tube so the air box nipple does not compress the material. I put the blue to the top. Logic is the yellow part will slow or stop most of the oil. If any oil gets all the way up to the blue it will stop it. The blue is more dense than the yellow and it also breathes very good. I've just installed it on one unit but I haven't started it yet.

Picture one is what I started with picture two is what I actually inserted into the vent tube. This item is available at, yep... you guessed it, walmart in the isle with dish washing devices, $3.84 and it will make six vent tube filters.

UPDATED 5-27-2010... I have finally found the fuel system 200 mesh fuel vent screen. I put a small round of this screen on each side of the filter to catch any particles that may flake off the foam filter. As of 5-27-2010 there has been "no" deterioration of the filter media. An additional test has been an on-going project since August 2009. Test is same foam media soaking in used Spyder blended oil. This test includes exposure to sunlight and heating the oil in the microwave to 250 degrees, without the media being in the oil, then re-introducing the same media back into the oil for more soaking. Examination under a 50 power scope, "no" deterioration... hand test... flexing, mashing and twisting of media... media is flexible, soft and "no" other deterioration visible.

Your thoughts on this ... all advice appreciated.
/Ken

 

[truck 85]

looks good to me the only thing i would try is dip it in oil and see it deteriorates.

 

[krb1945]

I'll soak it now...

I'll dip it in the same oil I use in the bike. That should tell me if it is good for this purpose. How long would you suggest letting it stay in the oil? Thanks! Ken

 

[fastfraser]

I think someone posted awhile back that BRP recommended something like that and then there where a few post about a concern about the foam deteriorating over time and getting sucked back down the hose.:dontknow:
I used the catch can method myself and works great. Just don't overfill your oil. Keep mine so it just touches the dipstick.
Keep us posted as this certainly seems like a much easier fix.

 

[truck 85]

I'll dip it in the same oil I use in the bike. That should tell me if it is good for this purpose. How long would you suggest letting it stay in the oil? Thanks! Ken

about a day or so and then take it out and let it set for a day and see if it comes apart

 

[Neez]

I've been using foam cut from a Suzuki dirt bike air filter. It's been working well, so far. There is plenty of material left in the Suzuki filter, so I plan to replace and examine the hose oil filter as part of regular maintenance.

 

[krb1945]

I've got it soaking in...

oil that I've heated up to about 250 degrees. I'm going to let it soak a couple of days. I'll re-heat the oil once in a while. It will be similar to the engine running then parked.

I'm sure the fuel system screen would stop any particles that might shed off.

 

[boborgera]

Go to Spyder shop talk page 13 oil leak by sabunim5. I use a similar filter materiel. I had oil in my air box at 6 hunderd miles. I now have about 9.7 thousand miles. My air box is dry. I keep the oil to top line on the dip stick. Some times simple things work.

 

[krb1945]

Link being referred to above...

http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4870&hl=airbox


I believe this is the link being referred to. If it isn't let me know and I'll hunt some more.

The foam being used looks like a thick piece of mower air filter foam. \Ken

 

[WackyDan]

I'd say you'd want to soak it in USED oil.... All the better test considering all the other compounds that build up in oil over time.

 

[krb1945]

You are correct... used oil is...

what I am soaking it in because it will have all the acids and everything else the oil collects.

I've decided that I am going to put a fuel screen cone inside of each end of the hose to stop any particles that may come off. I suspect the best foam to use is probably from a dirt bike or a commercial mower. We are definitely going to have an idea of the effectiveness of the foam in the next few weeks. By the middle of this week I will be testing it on two of the spyders. I am glad to see others using this method are having positive results.

Thanks for the input Spyder Riders.
Ken

 

[boborgera]

http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4870&hl=airbox


I believe this is the link being referred to. If it isn't let me know and I'll hunt some more.

The foam being used looks like a thick piece of mower air filter foam. \Ken

That's it, It works, It's simple. Maybe too simple for some, To each his own. In my younger days i would do things the hard way, As i lost some brain cells :yikes: i found out simple is the way to go.

 

[krb1945]

boborgera... like you, I...

have lost a bunch of gray cells and for me the simpler the better. I now use the "kiss" principal "keep it simple stupid".

I am going to make a slight adjustment to my tube so I can see if oil is getting past the filter. I'm going to use a clear chemical & fuel grade tube.

It is a beautiful day:2thumbs: here in north FL... everyone enjoy the nice weather. /Ken

 

[krb1945]

Crank case vent tube being tested

The clear tube is chemical and fuel rated. Final test design is clear tube 5/8 id with foam and fuel screen. I placed the fuel screen at the crank case end to catch any foam particles. The screen is the gold at the bottom end. I inserted a 1 inch length of the black vent tube in each end to ensure a snug fit. This is a tight squeeze... must use a little lube on the end of the tube being inserted. I used a larger vent tube so I could use a larger filter foam.

 

[boborgera]

The clear tube is chemical and fuel rated. Final test design is clear tube 5/8 id with foam and fuel screen. I placed the fuel screen at the crank case end to catch any foam particles. The screen is the gold at the bottom end. I inserted a 1 inch length of the black vent tube in each end to ensure a snug fit. This is a tight squeeze... must use a little lube on the end of the tube being inserted. I used a larger vent tube so I could use a larger filter foam.

Just a thought, If you think the foam might come apart it will be more of a problem if it went into the throttle bodys not the crank case, I don't use a screen, I check mine offen. It looks the same as the day i put it in. When i first put the foam in i was thinking of some kind of screen, But i figured if that came apart it would do more damage than the foam. But the if the screen [on both ends] holds tightray: that might be right way to go?

 

[Batmobile]

I tried a piece from a foam filter for a lawn mower and I guess it wasn't coarse enough. It wouldn't let enough air through it at high RPMs causing back pressure and the clutch would slip. I could pull the foam out and everything would be fine again. Put it back in and slippage. Whatever works for you. I have a catch can ordered to try that next.

 

[krb1945]

Batmobile & boborgera... I had a...

"catch can" but I was still getting oil in the air box. I even put a longer hose on the side to the airbox that had a long up slope but still oil was getting by. The 'catch can' was catching a most of the oil though. On a 50 to 75 mile run it would catch about 2 tea spoons full.


boborgera, I am using fine mesh farm tractor fuel screen. I have more screens ordered. They should be here tomorrow. I will definitely use a screen cone on each side of the foam filter. I'm sure you saw what I was using for the foam filter at the beginning of this thread.

I have been soak testing the foam used oil that I drained out of the spyder about 2 weeks ago. I have been heating the oil up in the microwave to 200 to 220 and putting the foam back in... I have been doing this now for about 30 hours and the foam still looks like it did in the pictures at the beginning of the thread. In other words " so far so good" on this test.

Also, I do take my oil to the recycle center but had not gotten this over there yet. I encourage all to recycle their oil. One drop of oil contaminates 100,000 gallons of water according the the MSM. /Ken

 

[bjt]

Are you going to be selling this setup in a kit eventually?

 

[BeRight]

Are you going to be selling this setup in a kit eventually?

:agree:with this idea.

 

[krb1945]

I haven't thought...

about making a kit for this item. It is such a simple thing to make. All you have to do is get the fuel system screen, clear fuel/chemical grade tube from tractor supply or a box hardware store. Two 7/8ths inch hose clamps. A good open cell foam from a lawn mower filter or from a walmart foam scrubber tool and you are good to go.

If some have doubts about making them or can't find the parts pm me and I'll make you one. All you'll need to do is reimburse me for the screen, tubing, foam, and shipping. A grand total of 11 OR 12 bucks. The fuel system 200 mesh screen is the most expensive part and it is $5.84. This is the screen that allows fuel and fumes to pass through but water and other liquids don't get through because the molecules are to large. /Ken