The Windshield is Now Moving as Planned...

[Bob Denman]

Keeler PowerSports in Walton, NY replaced that busted cast bracket (and the rest of that hardware!) for me today... It took the tech approximately an hour and a half to do the swap-out of parts.
It's not a pretty thing to see... :shocked: :lecturef_smilie: Stay in the waiting room and read the brochures! :lecturef_smilie:
By the way... They don't sell that bracket as a separate piece; the entire unit costs $573!

At least now I'm back up and running, and the weather is looking pretty darn nice! :2thumbs:

 

[ARtraveler]

Glad to hear you got the Windshield fixed.

I too have an issue that you have to buy modules to get some things fixed on the :spyder2:. Wish we could only get the part that is needed. Had the same issue when my cruise control switch went out. I had to replace the whole right hand module at about $250.00. I hope nothing goes wrong on the left hand side. :yikes:

 

[StanProff]

Guys, does the Best Warranty cover any of these items? Do either one of you have it?

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I had the BEST warranty when my windshield bracket broke and it was covered.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Does anyone have any of these broken brackets ?
When mine broke it was returned to BRP under warranty.
Fat lot of good that seems to have done.
The replacement part looks exactly like the original part that broke.
I'd like to get a bracket and take it to the shop and have them make one out of Stainless Steel.
If I don't get any takers, I'll have to try to dismantle my unit and replace it during the winter.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I think they have to return all of the broken parts that are fixed under warranty.

 

[Mickay]

They put Band-Aid and new parts number, that's why the problem is never resolve:roflblack:

 

[Chupaca]

Gotta say..!!

BRP has quite a few assemblies that you are not able to get any individual parts for. If they were cheap it would be fine but they are not. They could be order only parts to save stocking and suppliers must have them..just thinking out loud...not good..!! :roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

:roflblack: :shocked: no.

I tried to get the busted parts from my guy; but they were told to send everything back to the Mother Ship...
I was hoping that one of us in here could replicate it; using real deal steel...

 

[Bob Denman]

This certainly is a part that is covered by the warranty... :thumbup:

 

[ARCTIC]

So you did or did not have warranty to cover this? They can have the broken pieces if they pick up the tab otherwise....

 

[Bob Denman]

PM sent...

 

[jthornton]

:roflblack: :shocked: no.

I tried to get the busted parts from my guy; but they were told to send everything back to the Mother Ship...
I was hoping that one of us in here could replicate it; using real deal steel...

Even 6061 or 7075 aluminum billet would be good enough. The sticker is the metric hex broach you would need to broach the part that goes on the hex shaft. A metric hex broach costs about $400 so you would have to make a bunch of parts to recoup that. The other issue is you can't remove the motor as it is timed at the factory. I assume it might be something with encoder feedback. It might be easier to make a crutch for the outside to double the strength of the factory pot metal bracket.

In any case has anyone had to replace one out of pocket?

JT

 

[Jeriatric]

Bob,

Have your out of pocket repair expenses exceeded the cost of an extended warranty?

An honest question....nothing else.

 

[Bob Denman]

No... :shocked:
I'm still well over a thousand bucks to the good on THAT one! :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

No... :shocked:
I'm still well over a thousand bucks to the good on THAT one! :thumbup:

Over a grand? Thought three years of BEST was less than a grand? :doorag:

 

[Biosafena]

Just a thought....instead of making the new part so that it has to slide onto he hex shaft, why not make it two pieces? Kind of like a shaft collar. As log as the hex is positioned correctly when the part is machined, I would think all would be good. A little work with a zip wheel on a grinder would get the old broken part off for sure. If someone already brought this up, sorry.

Sent from the corner of walk and don't walk...

 

[CyncySpyder]

Even 6061 or 7075 aluminum billet would be good enough. The sticker is the metric hex broach you would need to broach the part that goes on the hex shaft. A metric hex broach costs about $400 so you would have to make a bunch of parts to recoup that. The other issue is you can't remove the motor as it is timed at the factory. I assume it might be something with encoder feedback. It might be easier to make a crutch for the outside to double the strength of the factory pot metal bracket. In any case has anyone had to replace one out of pocket? JT

Ummmmmmmm........... please help my ignorant mind understand your statement highlighted in red. The motor for the windshield support is plugged into a wiring harness on the Spyder and also into that plastic housing where the actual motor is housed, as (not real well) seen here in this pic.

If one were brave enough, or stupid enough in my case, you can take this assembly apart, and remove the broken dog-bone shaped bracket assembly (not just the bracket itself) but getting it apart from the hex spline and gear, and then getting a new bracket back on is the real issue here ....... I think, right?

I'm just not getting the connection to the motor statement about it being timed. When I took ours semi-apart (as shown) I just unplugged everything, took apart all that I could, fastened a hose-clamp over the broken bracket, painted it black so it wouldn't look so bad, and put it all back together. Maybe I just got lucky, but I didn't seem to have any issues with the motor not being timed correctly or anything of the sort. So that's why I'm a little confused at your statement. And please note, I'm no expert, more like that statement: Ignorance is Bliss & maybe I just didn't know any better :dontknow: Thanks for helping me to understand :bowdown:

 

[ARtraveler]

Guys, does the Best Warranty cover any of these items? Do either one of you have it?

I do not have an extended warranty on either of my RT's. The dealer here never offered any kind of extended warranty. My usual procedure though is to avoid the expense of extra warranties. My regular warranty is done on the 2010 so all repair costs are now on me. One year and lots of miles left on the 2011 warranty. Same thing with the new car I purchased recently. No extended warranty purchased.

When it comes to :spyder2: though, I am leaning more towards an extra warranty being a good move. That is as long as you get one that is honored at CanAm dealers nationwide. There are other warranties than BEST, and you can get into good ones and bad ones there. The high price for repairs and parts is a big consideration. Not everyone can afford $1,000 plus repair bills easily.

When or if, my Spyder decides to become undependable or more expensive to keep running than I deem prudent, it will be time to make a change.

 

[jthornton]

Ummmmmmmm........... please help my ignorant mind understand your statement highlighted in red. The motor for the windshield support is plugged into a wiring harness on the Spyder and also into that plastic housing where the actual motor is housed, as (not real well) seen here in this pic.

If one were brave enough, or stupid enough in my case, you can take this assembly apart, and remove the broken dog-bone shaped bracket assembly (not just the bracket itself) but getting it apart from the hex spline and gear, and then getting a new bracket back on is the real issue here ....... I think, right?

I'm just not getting the connection to the motor statement about it being timed. When I took ours semi-apart (as shown) I just unplugged everything, took apart all that I could, fastened a hose-clamp over the broken bracket, painted it black so it wouldn't look so bad, and put it all back together. Maybe I just got lucky, but I didn't seem to have any issues with the motor not being timed correctly or anything of the sort. So that's why I'm a little confused at your statement. And please note, I'm no expert, more like that statement: Ignorance is Bliss & maybe I just didn't know any better :dontknow: Thanks for helping me to understand :bowdown:

Now that you have been that far into it is it possible to remove the part on the right or is is molded to the hex shaft.

I was just quoting from the service manual:

Notice Do not remove windshield motor from windshield base. Both are calibrated at the factory. If the windshield motor needs to be changed, replace windshield base with WPM module and windshield motor as an assembly.

I assume it has some way to detect full up and full down in the motor, that being said if you take the hex shaft off and put it back on with the same tooth engaged I can't see how you can change any timings. The question remains can you get the arm off?

JT