• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

The ST ride and handling.

I also prefer riding my ST over my fiance's RT. I can push mine more and have more fun in the twisties. I do have to admit for straight up comfort her's is more comfortable.
 
Bajaron, I'd like to follow up on your comment about installing a "front" brake on your Spyder. Please explain what you did. I miss the front brake if only for a rest for my fingers. Otherwise, I find myself gripping the throttle to tightly. Only about 2000 miles on my new to my ST. Send me a PM if you'd rather not post in this thread. Thanks, John

Lamont and I both wanted hand brakes. We both still ride 2 wheels and it takes a bit of training to hone your front brake skills and reflexes. We didn't want to lose that by riding the Spyder. Lamont 'engineered' a system that, though not perfect, satisfied our needs.

He used a clutch lever and cable off of a Suzuki M109R that worked great. We turned the clutch lever over to function as a brake lever. Then we tinkered with a simple linkage assembly which mated the other end of the clutch cable to the existing master cylinder. I think the entire project cost us about $100.00 in parts.

We don't have the stopping power of the foot actuated brake lever. But it is still substantial and comes in very handy. Especially if you have highway pegs or floorboards where your foot is not always directly over the brake peddle.

Your issues with the Spyder handling and movement on uneven road surfaces is typical. Your brain will, eventually, compensate for these things and you'll no longer suffer from over sensitivity to them. Still, a true ROLO system laser alignment is highly recommended. And a sway bar and or shock upgrade will also greatly improve handling.

Have a great riding season!
 
Relax and don't over think it...read the do's and don't section also.

My take...first it will take you more than 1k miles to figure this machine out, I had and advantage because I rode motorcycle for my whole life but also 4 wheeler which ride the same as the spyder.


Things to remember like everyone has said, you have more contract with the road so you wil be effected by the road more, you need to stay loose with hand grip, shoulders and arms..if you still arm it in any way you will effect the steering, get a lazer alignment, change tires pressure to make yourself comfy, swar bar and adjustable shock can and do help.

The saying " slow is smooth and smooth is fast" is exact on these machines...if not smooth the nanny or uneasy rider will limit your fun and enjoyment with the ride....learn clean lines in turns and float with the machine and you will be good

ENJOY!
 
Attached is a copy of the Do's and Don'ts. Don't see where anyone has mentioned it. If so, Sorry.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners

The :spyder2: is very sensitive to input. Don't use what we call the
"death grip" when riding. A light input on the bars is better than white knuckle riding. Heavy input gives the :ani29: a feel as though it has a mind of its own.

I tell people to pretend there are eggs between the palm of your hand. Don't break the eggs. Use a gentle push/pull on the hand grips.

Lean slightly into turns, plant your foot on the floorboards/pegs on the outside of the turn. You should enter turns at a speed where you do not have to apply brake to slow down. Slight acceleration through the turn will help. Think racing car. Enter from the inside and head towards the outside. Once mastered you can easily take turns at 20+ posted without going over the center line. If you are over the line, you are outdriving your abilities. The "g" forces will be noticeably less.
 
Attached is a copy of the Do's and Don'ts. Don't see where anyone has mentioned it. If so, Sorry.

Does that include looking farther down the road ??

Every time I force myself to do that (old habits are hard to break) I find that it helps a LOT.

Even in my motorhome.....which is really sensitive to side winds.
 
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