• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

The joys of farkels

Cavman

Active member
Dropped off my Spyder RT for it's 12K service. Well, it seems that has changed to a 14K service which is going to cost over $1K more than I had thought? I had changed the oil and filters to help on the cost to me.

Got a call from the dealer and there is a problem with the extra wiring I have added for the wiring of the farkels because they need to remove the front end of the Spyder to get to the engine. I get to drive back up to Cartersville from Atlanta for a consultation with the mechanic so he doesn't just start cutting wires that I have added. The joys of farkels!
 
Dropped off my Spyder RT for it's 12K service. Well, it seems that has changed to a 14K service which is going to cost over $1K more than I had thought? I had changed the oil and filters to help on the cost to me.

Got a call from the dealer and there is a problem with the extra wiring I have added for the wiring of the farkels because they need to remove the front end of the Spyder to get to the engine. I get to drive back up to Cartersville from Atlanta for a consultation with the mechanic so he doesn't just start cutting wires that I have added. The joys of farkels!

Purchase some quick connects. snip the wires in the middle and rejoin them by theses connects.that way they can be undone easily.

If you are able, run the wires all to a single spot so you only need a single quick connect to disconnect the entire frunk. This is what I did.
I also use similar connections on all my body panels that have LEDs.
 
:shocked: I feel your pain... :shocked:
One solution, is to have plugs in every wire, and every wire labelled on both sides of the plug... :thumbup:
Good Luck!
 
Is it now required to have the valves checked at 14K miles? Someone mentioned that maybe it was now done sometime in the low 20K miles?

I moved some of the wiring and some others I had to disconnect or cut. Since I added different items at different times over the past year, it was a bit of a jumble. I did have some of those disconnects on some farkels. I plan on re-doing so it will be easier in the future. Also there will be labeling too.
 
I know what you mean G A , I plumbed in loads of extras on my Triumph Tiger ( R.I.P ) bit by bit , the wiring resembled a birds nest behind the nose fairing in the end , I remember thinking , god help the mechanic who had to sort that lot out for any reason . It was on my list of jobs , sadly she was smashed to bits before I had the chance .
I don't usually mess about with wires , since I had a Mini , back in the day , added that much stuff I fried the loom lol .
 
Dropped off my Spyder RT for it's 12K service. Well, it seems that has changed to a 14K service which is going to cost over $1K more than I had thought? I had changed the oil and filters to help on the cost to me.

Got a call from the dealer and there is a problem with the extra wiring I have added for the wiring of the farkels because they need to remove the front end of the Spyder to get to the engine. I get to drive back up to Cartersville from Atlanta for a consultation with the mechanic so he doesn't just start cutting wires that I have added. The joys of farkels!

Caveman, these are what I use and they are great! They are also really cheap.


http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...rrel-connector-to-screw-terminal-adapter/856/


I cut a piece of 3/8" heat shrink tubing and place it on the male part and push the two together. That'll keep you from shorting out if it hits metal. I found that out the hard way. Fried the 4th zone on my 4 zone remote.


Connector2HTML_zpsf782d3d8.jpg




Connector3HTML_zps48364ef2.jpg



The heat shrink tubing (don't shrink it) fits perfectly and acts as a rubber boot.



Connector4HTML_zpsf8a218b6.jpg
 
The only place my wiring really resemble a rats nest is by my switched fuse box. unfortunately theres not a lot I can do there.
 
Caveman, these are what I use and they are great! They are also really cheap.




Connector2HTML_zpsf782d3d8.jpg

I get these from TricLED. I have these in several places. I for some applications though I pick up some battery tender style connections from Radio Shack. i also have WAGO style Lever locks (also available from TricLED) to connect a bunch of wires together. For example, I have all my frunk lights wired to a single pair of lever locks, with an additional tail going off to a quick connect so there is only one connection needed to disconnect the entire frunk.
 
colors..!!

I always color code the connections and always have quick connectors water proof of course. You make the mistake once then you learn it makes even your life much simpler.. You must always figure that what you add to your bike you will more than likely have to remove some day. Sorry its a pain I know..:dontknow:
 
I just ordered 20 sets from Reggie at TricLEDs. May not need that many but it's better to have more than need when you don't in the middle of a project.
I used to be a big fan of SuperBright LEDs years ago. Last year I ordered a bunch of their "bolt LEDs and a bunch were defective. The nut wouldn't un-screw so I couldn't mount them. I had a bunch from years ago and put some on the Spyder. See my mods section.
 
My bad, thanks for correcting me. I didn't know that Reggy sold these on his site. I only thought that they came with his lighting kits. Scratch my previous post on this. Definitely get them from TricLED.
 
Still, I recommend that you use the rubber boot fix that I had in the previous post. It'll keep you from blowing a fuse or worse.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top