Tail lights

[Desert Spyder]

Has anyone changed a tail light on these machines yet? I just got through. One light @ 6000 mi.? Thats quick. What a pain. You have to be a contortionist at some of this stuff. Why they didn't just screw the lens into the light body is beyond me. I know Dudley had to change a pair on his whirlwind journey. Make sure you have magnetic tipped torx tips.

 

[BRPjunkie]

Has anyone changed a tail light on these machines yet? I just got through. One light @ 6000 mi.? Thats quick. What a pain. You have to be a contortionist at some of this stuff. Why they didn't just screw the lens into the light body is beyond me. I know Dudley had to change a pair on his whirlwind journey. Make sure you have magnetic tipped torx tips.

It is a PITA, especially if you have the sport rack which makes it almost impossible. One posted fix showed how to cut a small portion of the botton lens cover away to allow easier access and those with NMN LEDs don't have to worry about this.

 

[Neez]

It is a PITA, especially if you have the sport rack which makes it almost impossible. One posted fix showed how to cut a small portion of the botton lens cover away to allow easier access and those with NMN LEDs don't have to worry about this.

That was my post called "Brake bulb win", about 3 pages back in the Spyder Shop Talk forum. Sorry, I'm not computer savvy enough to link you there.

 

[spyryder]

That was my post called "Brake bulb win", about 3 pages back in the Spyder Shop Talk forum. Sorry, I'm not computer savvy enough to link you there.

It's easy, just copy 'n paste:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13303

:thumbup:

 

[Tom in NM]

PITA is not adequate to describe the experience

I am going to do Neez's fix.

Also, aka1004 posted his experiences with using an LED he purchased ( around $25 at Pep Boys ) for the brake lights instead of the bulbs.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12078

I have been running them for about 2 months, no problems. Given their "100,000 hours of use" (advertising) I may never have to open up the taillights again.

NMN also has some LED options.

While the LEDs should last a long time, after putting in the LEDs I learned I really didn't ever want to do that again. But, after seeing Neez's fix, I figured this would be a good thing to do - just in case.

Tom

 

[Desert Spyder]

I am going to do Neez's fix.

Also, aka1004 posted his experiences with using an LED he purchased ( around $25 at Pep Boys ) for the brake lights instead of the bulbs.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12078

I have been running them for about 2 months, no problems. Given their "100,000 hours of use" (advertising) I may never have to open up the taillights again.

NMN also has some LED options.

While the LEDs should last a long time, after putting in the LEDs I learned I really didn't ever want to do that again. But, after seeing Neez's fix, I figured this would be a good thing to do - just in case.

Tom

I read all those posts, thanks. Very informative. AKA1004 said he changed his tail/brake light to LED after having to change the bulbs 3 times. Why are these things going out so quickly...voltage surge? I have probably changed tail light bulbs only 3 times on ALL my cars in the last 45 years and thats a lot of cars.

I get the impression that if something happens to the bulb(s) (BTW, it was only the taillight portion that was out on mine, not the brake) the nanny gets upset, is this so? Or is this just the case in the LED's?

Brian

 

[docdoru]

I read all those posts, thanks. Very informative. AKA1004 said he changed his tail/brake light to LED after having to change the bulbs 3 times. Why are these things going out so quickly...voltage sure? I have probably changed tail light bulbs only 3 times on ALL my cars in the last 45 years and thats a lot of cars.

I get the impression that if something happens to the bulb(s) (BTW, it was only the taillight portion that was out on mine, not the brake) the nanny gets upset, is this so? Or is this just the case in the LED's?

Brian

The answer: low frequency vibrations.
The fix: ESI L.E.D. tail lights.

 

[Some Guy]

I'll be getting the ESI LED taillights for sure...but I'm waiting until winter. Now, I know that because I just typed that, I'll have a bulb go out on me very soon! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Tom in NM]

My impression too . . . .

I get the impression that if something happens to the bulb(s) (BTW, it was only the taillight portion that was out on mine, not the brake) the nanny gets upset, is this so? Or is this just the case in the LED's?

Brian

. . . . . but since it has never happened to me, I don't know. There is a circuit on the brake lights ( and maybe the taillights ) that require that anything plugged into them run at a certain volt/amperage - that is why the LEDs must have a circuit that mimics that. If not, according to reports, you do get an error.

I agree with Docdoru, vibration is the main cause of failure on the bulbs. The Spyders vibrations make the filament in the bulb move and ( in my mind ) they end up breaking from metal fatigue. There are special bulbs with a filament structure that stand up to vibration better than normal bulbs - like the ones recommended for garage door openers.

Tom

 

[Neez]

I read all those posts, thanks. Very informative. AKA1004 said he changed his tail/brake light to LED after having to change the bulbs 3 times. Why are these things going out so quickly...voltage surge? I have probably changed tail light bulbs only 3 times on ALL my cars in the last 45 years and thats a lot of cars.

I get the impression that if something happens to the bulb(s) (BTW, it was only the taillight portion that was out on mine, not the brake) the nanny gets upset, is this so? Or is this just the case in the LED's?

Brian

If both brake light bulbs burn, Nanny puts you into Limp Mode. That's why I wanted a change out procedure that is doable roadside. NMN LED brake lights, and some others, have circuitry that fools the Nanny into sensing that all is well. The LEDs are probably the best solution and should solve the vibration problem.

 

[Desert Spyder]

If both brake light bulbs burn, Nanny puts you into Limp Mode. That's why I wanted a change out procedure that is doable roadside. NMN LED brake lights, and some others, have circuitry that fools the Nanny into sensing that all is well. The LEDs are probably the best solution and should solve the vibration problem.

You mean to tell mean this bike will go into Limp Mode if the brake lights go out? Geez!

 

[docdoru]

You mean to tell mean this bike will go into Limp Mode if the brake lights go out? Geez!

Both Taillights. Not only that you can't go over 45 mph, but can’t go over 4,500 rpm either.

 

[Desert Spyder]

Both Taillights. Not only that you can't go over 45 mph, but can’t go over 4,500 rpm either.

I experienced that already after taking the bike in for the recall. 45 MPH on a California freeway is not my idea of fun.

 

[Dudley]

When I changed the taillight bulbs in Seattle, only one was out (or so I thought), so I never went into limp mode. When I took the second one off, just because it had over 20,000 miles running time, when I held it up to the sun, it was also burned...some how had not separated at the element yet, or I would have been in limp mode. I know the LEDs a better, but for the price (2 for less than $2.00, 1157 bulbs) I don't expect to change so many that the LEDs will be cheaper. That's just me.