Sway bar end links

[csn29]

Hello,

I have a 2021 Ryker 900 and I upgraded the sway bar with the factory upgrade when I purchased the bike. My questions for the group are

1. Will there be a noticeable difference if I upgrade the end links considering I already have the upgraded sway bar
2. If there is a difference what is it
3. How difficult is the installation. I am not the most handy person although I did change the exhaust and added LED headlights

Thanks everyone

 

[CopperSpyder]

Ryker Swaybar link info can be found here "click: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets Bajaron is a Sponsor here he can help you if you have some questions also, he may jump in if he sees this post. Hope this helps.

 

[Mikey]

The aftermarket links are made out of solid alum, with good joints on both ends! Putting them on is a piece of cake, just unbolt and replace with the new ones, you may have to jack up slightly to get the second bolt in, no big deal!! Worth getting in my book!!!

 

[sKiZo]

Surprised anyone would install the bar without also replacing the links? Or at least suggesting it? Be interesting to see a pic of what you've got ...

 

[RykerRick]

Agreed, the factory end links are made of a polymer plastic material, they flex too much causing that twitchy feeling at higher interstate speeds. Replacing them with billet aluminum end links makes a world of difference, no flexing. The upgraded sway bar helps considerably when cornering, feels more planted. When I replaced my end links at only 200 miles, two of the sockets in the original plastic end links were frozen, I couldnt even move them with a screwdriver inserted into them, the other two were moveable, but were very stiff. Baja Rons end links are made of billet aluminum and the sockets move freely. Its really an inexpensive upgrade and only takes about 10 minutes to swap out. Most people find the end links upgrade a considerable improvement, and even more so with both the sway bar & end links.

 

[csn29]

Thanks everyone for your comments. This is a great place for information. I contacted bajonron direct and ordered the end links. He seems to be a great guy and very responsive. You also save a few bucks if you order through him direct. I highly recommend

 

[ravensrest]

I received my new sway bar links from Bajaron last week, and quickly installed them on my 2019 Ryker Rally. The links are well made and very nicely finished. The balls rotate more freely than in the plastic factory links, but they are not at all sloppy. I found that one should attach the lower end of the link to the A-arm first because with the upper end loose, you can tilt the link and attaching bolt so as to make inserting the second spacer on the lower end of the link relatively easy to do. There is no problem with the spacers on the upper end. Installation took about 20 minutes total for both.

I bought the links hoping they would reduce the "twitchiness" mentioned by RykerRick at higher speeds. It is difficult to tell for sure, but I would say there is a marginal improvement above 60 mph. However, the twitchiness is still present. I think it is due more to the steering geometry than any other cause, and might best be cured (short of steering redesign) with a steering damper rather than a beefed up sway bar. I wonder, Bajaron, if you have considered, or would consider, providing such a device?

In summary, I am pleased with my purchase; they look great, appear marinally successful in reducing twitchiness, offer easy installation, and provide a feeling of well being knowing that critical parts of your steering do no rely on plastic.

BS

 

[Markubis]

I never noticed a reduction in twitchiness when I installed mine. What I did notice was a huge decrease in dip when changing lanes on the highway or taking regular turns. I hated the feeling of the bike dipping down to the left when taking a right tufn and vice versa.

 

[BajaRon]

I received my new sway bar links from Bajaron last week, and quickly installed them on my 2019 Ryker Rally. The links are well made and very nicely finished. The balls rotate more freely than in the plastic factory links, but they are not at all sloppy. I found that one should attach the lower end of the link to the A-arm first because with the upper end loose, you can tilt the link and attaching bolt so as to make inserting the second spacer on the lower end of the link relatively easy to do. There is no problem with the spacers on the upper end. Installation took about 20 minutes total for both.

I bought the links hoping they would reduce the "twitchiness" mentioned by RykerRick at higher speeds. It is difficult to tell for sure, but I would say there is a marginal improvement above 60 mph. However, the twitchiness is still present. I think it is due more to the steering geometry than any other cause, and might best be cured (short of steering redesign) with a steering damper rather than a beefed up sway bar. I wonder, Bajaron, if you have considered, or would consider, providing such a device?

In summary, I am pleased with my purchase; they look great, appear marinally successful in reducing twitchiness, offer easy installation, and provide a feeling of well being knowing that critical parts of your steering do no rely on plastic.

BS

I do not think a steering dampener would give you the results you are looking for. Though I am not opposed to looking into it.

It was never our intent to sell just end links. We never tested an 'End Link Only' install, and I make no claims as to how much improvement they offer. The links do improve sway bar function over the plastic OEM parts. But will, at best, give you only a small percentage of the improvement a full sway bar kit offers. Many End Link Only customers have since purchased the rest of the kit to get a full system. They have been very happy with the end results.

I am sorry that you have not gotten as much improvement as you'd hoped. The end links are a relatively inexpensive upgrade, easily installed and certainly a visual and functional improvement. But they are not able to overcome the inherent weakness of the OEM sway bar.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I'm not sure a 'steering damper' would work all that well with the front suspension as designed/executed, and installing one might even make your twitchiness worse! :lecturef_smilie:

Generally, our Spyders/Rykers exhibit 'twitchiness' due to things like but not necessarily limited to:

• the rider being too tense/holding too tight on the handlebars &/or not looking far enough ahead down the road;
• the wheel alignment being set either neutral or with 'toe out' instead of a smidge of 'toe in';
• the OE spec Kendas being poorly constructed & either having misaligned tread on the carcass, misaligned internal plies &/or belts, bulges or deformaties in the tire, out of round or off-centre tires, other construction failures;
• off-kilter DPS steering Centre Setting fighting with 'straight ahead' alignment & on the road (not applicable to Rykers tho );
• worn or damaged suspension bushes/components like worn inner 'A' arm bushes or damaged/worn ball joints;
• misaligned rear tire alignment fighting steering centre/straight ahead setting; &/or
• worn rear swing arm bushing etc.

I'd be making sure you'd adressed all those (& anything else others might add, cos I'm sure I've forgotten some... ) before even considering a steering damper - our Spyders/Rykers aren't like other 'bikes in that respect due to the two front wheels & suspension design (& the Electric Power Steering on Spyders ) but neither are they really like cars/trucks etc... and the wheel alignment will vary as the suspension ride height changes during operation as it cycles/articulates, so you've really GOT to get some toe-in at static road height with your 'normal load' aboard, or things can get uncomfortably twitchy very quickly! :shocked:

 

[rjinaz86323]

I have read a couple of comments about the sway bar causing the Spyder to ride a little rougher. Is this true, and if so how much rougher. I would love to improve the handling, but not at the cost of listening to Momma complain. :lecturef_smilie:

 

[cueman]

For those with Ryker Rally’s, I tightened my front shocks up to 4 lines showing and may do another half. Rides a bit stiffer on bumps but handles curves better. hyea: cueman

 

[ravensrest]

Thank you all for your useful comments and suggestions. I shall certainly look into changing the front shock settings and measuring the toe-in. Ron told me when I spoke with him by phone that he did not know how much improvement a "links only" installation would cause, so I was not expecting anything in particular, just hoping. Again, I am happy with the links and recommend them to anyone.
BS

 

[BajaRon]

I have read a couple of comments about the sway bar causing the Spyder to ride a little rougher. Is this true, and if so how much rougher. I would love to improve the handling, but not at the cost of listening to Momma complain. :lecturef_smilie:

The sway bar does not stiffen the ride. Ride stiffness is controlled by the shocks. Some replace the bar and shocks at the same time. When you upgrade this way you will not know what component is doing what. So, it can be difficult to attribute any particular change (good or bad) to the appropriate component.

For those with Ryker Rally’s, I tightened my front shocks up to 4 lines showing and may do another half. Rides a bit stiffer on bumps but handles curves better. hyea: cueman

You can overcome a weak sway bar by stiffening up the front shocks. You do get better handling, but at the expense of ride compliance. If you took the shocks off and replaced them with a steel bar, you would get the ultimate in handling (on a smooth road surface) and a very harsh ride.

The purpose of an upgraded sway bar is to improve handling without sacrificing the nice ride. If you want even more control after the sway bar install, you can achieve it with a relatively small amount of shock adjustment. You don't want to try and make up for a weak shock with too much sway bar. And if you like a nice ride, you probably do not want to try and make up for a weak sway bar by over-stiffening the shocks.

Many people who have compensated with stiff front shocks find that they can back them off several turns after upgrading the sway bar, giving them both better handling than they had with the stiff shocks alone. And a much improved ride.

Also, if you run your shock spring pre-load up too much. You may significantly change your ride height. Which will put your front wheels out of alignment. Wheel alignment changes as the suspension articulates. It will only be accurate at the ride height at which the wheels were aligned. This misalignment is not linear. In other words, the misalignment starts out small with movement up or down from original ride height. As you move further away from the original position, the amount of misalignment increases at an ever greater pace. So, misalignment is insignificant with small changes. But it can get off by quite a bit with too much movement away from the original position.

Everything in life is a trade-off. Also true of suspension changes. The more you understand about what changes will give what results. The more likely you are to achieve the desired outcome.

 

[sKiZo]

Has the stock sway bar improved over time? Gotta figure CanAm is listening to the many complaints ...

 

[BajaRon]

Has the stock sway bar improved over time? Gotta figure CanAm is listening to the many complaints ...

We tested an OEM bar off of a 2013 RT with the same off of a 2021 RT. Same diameter, same tested resistance. They were identical. So, the answer is 'No'.