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Suggestions for second shift arm

ptoemmes

New member
Latest science project under consideration is to add an electric shift - Pingel or more likely Kliktronic - to the SM5.

I know Pingel has a Spyder specific kit, but I want to hide the unit like mike3069 has (it's a Kliktronic) on his Spyder.

But I want to keep the stock shift arm placed as is.

So that seems to me to require adding a second shift arm hidden behind the tupperware to connect to the electric shifter also hidden behind the tupperware.

You can see what Mike did here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=180&pictureid=2652 which shows how the stock shift arm was re-clocked to connect to the electric shift.

I want to mainain the stock shift lever in it's stock position and add a second shift arm (nothing fancy 'cause it's hidden) clocked in the position that Mike's is shown in.

It seems obvious a piece needs to be welded, but where? Does the new welded piece have to pivot precisely over the splined shifter shaft or can it be offset just a bit?

Fulcroms and pivot points oh my. What say you?

Pete
 
Your real problem is not where but how long do you make the arm.:dontknow:
Too long and there won't be enough throw and too short and it won't operate at full throw and you won't have enough leverage to pull or push the shifter.

I would weld my rod somewhere around 12 o'clock and have holes up and down on it so you can change the length till you find a sweat spot.
 
That's good idea. I've read whee you have to find the point on the lever arc where a full up or down shift moves about one inch along the circumference in order to match the throw length of the shifter.

But adjustable is always better.

My "concern" is where this new attached rod can simply be real close to the existing splined shaft or does if have to be tight "over" it. The pivot force of this seconf lever would be offest a litel as possible from the actual shift arm. Wonderign if that will casue unde stress or wear on the splined shaft, etc.

Thanks,

Pete
 
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