Suddenly - A Coolant Leak

[SilverSurfer]

Suddenly - An Anti-Freeze/Coolant Leak

Hi gang ...

So okay: The Spyder RT has been sitting in front of my townhome under its cover since my last major ride of about three weeks ago and it began to get a little cold. Now it's really cold at night. Temps going down into the 20s. Daytime temps though get up into the 40s. Last night I thought I saw a moist spot under the Spyder. Today I checked again and voilah! The spot had grown. It's coolant (saw a greenish liquid drop hanging from the center beam underneath). Again, the bike hasn't moved for over three weeks. Just all of a sudden there's this coolant leak.

So what could this be? Might it be expansion/contraction of the coolant in the bottle given the variance of temperature? Something leaking from the radiator? a hose? Before I start taking off panels, just wondered if someone might have had the same experience. Also ... which panels to remove to get a good look?

Thanks!

 

[jsteffey]

coolant leak

I had the same issue with mine. I am in Florida, but coincidentally, it happened right after a cold snap. It got below freezing. But it then continued when the weather warmed back up. At the dealers now. Let them figure it out.

 

[rogerb]

Vaving same problem with my RT. Dealer checked connections and said they were fine. Now that we are cold weather it is doing again and seem to be worse. It must be the cold. We have already been below zero here in Southern Maine. I guess I'm gonna put it up for the winter. The cold is starting to bother me. Must be old age. Time to get ready for April.

 

[Raptor]

There must be something to the expansion/contraction dynamic. We don't get those kinds of extremes much out here. I have done some searching on this site and more often than not what HDX indicated turns out to be the case - faulty clamps. Perhaps the expansion and contraction causes the factory clamps to losen up and cause the leak.

Oustide of the obvious - cracked bottle, hole in hose etc - I would be looking at the clamps.

 

[wyliec]

I have a GS and had the leak similar to where you mention. I guess the first place to check (at least on the GS) is the one place where they use a worm type clamp and then go from there. I was lucky (I hope) and it was the factory worm type clamp. All the rest of the clamps are the other style that HDX mentioned.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Good Answers ...

Yes, reading earlier posts on the site ... I'm seeing it could be either clamps or there are others who say that the leak may be coming from the water pump housing (temp variations causes seal to loosen or the hex nuts weren't tight enough in the first place).

I'm No. 2 in line to have my DPS recall done, and am gonna have to get it into the shop anyway. Here are my other challenges:

1. I can't seem to get the @#$% cap to the coolant bottle off. I can turn it; but it doesn't want to come off ... of course that STUPID location up underneath the top-right part of top panel doesn't help. Anybody got a tip on how to get the thing off so I can add my 50/50 of antifreeze and distilled water? It just frustrates me that they make it so difficult just to add a bit of coolant.

2. What SPECIFIC panels do I need to remove to gain access to the water pump, and its connecting hoses to the radiator, etc? The service manual seems to want me to pretty much strip the Spyder, but I would think it should just be (as one sits on the bike) the right middle panel, and the right rear (the one along one's right leg).

Alas, I'm probably going to hire a tow with a drive-up bed and have them haul the RT to the dealer (24 miles away). With things as they are, I'm a bit afraid to drive it ... I can't tell how much coolant is actually left in the reservior and if it'll hold during the drive. I don't think she's dumped all her coolant ... all there is under the bike is a wet spot, but I can't tell what's left.

 

[spyryder]

The most common leak on the RS was this clamp on the right side.(That's the fan shroud over on the right). I believe the RT has a similar setup. You should be able to get at it just by removing the middle side panel.

 

[wyliec]

The most common leak on the RS was this clamp on the right side.(That's the fan shroud over on the right). I believe the RT has a similar setup. You should be able to get at it just by removing the middle side panel.

Yep, that's the clamp I was talking about.

 

[groundeffect]

The most common leak on the RS was this clamp on the right side.(That's the fan shroud over on the right). I believe the RT has a similar setup. You should be able to get at it just by removing the middle side panel.

This is great information! Thank you for sharing!

 

[sandrunr1]

Here is my 2 cents. A while back, I serviced my wife's Spyder and added some antifreeze to the bottle. I either spilled some or it over flowed and ran down into the frame area. As we rode, dust, dirt, something got in the area and made the fluid drip out under the frame. I took it to the dealer and this is what he found. He cleaned it out and no more problems. Not saying clamp isnt loose but if you added some and or it spilled, maybe. Also, if over full, hard turns could make it flow out of hose over flow. Oh well.

 

[jsteffey]

coolant leak

Betcha none of us spilled coolant because you can't get*&%^#:cus: coolant cap off. Anybody been able to do it?

 

[NancysToy]

1. I can't seem to get the @#$% cap to the coolant bottle off. I can turn it; but it doesn't want to come off ... of course that STUPID location up underneath the top-right part of top panel doesn't help. Anybody got a tip on how to get the thing off so I can add my 50/50 of antifreeze and distilled water? It just frustrates me that they make it so difficult just to add a bit of coolant.

The cap on the tank has two stops (notches), just as with an automotive radiator cap. After you turn to the first stop, you must press down on the cap, then turn the rest of the way. Unfortunately, with the RT and its inaccessible coolant tank location, this involves either having hands the size of a Cabbage Patch doll, combined with the strength of an Olympic athlete, and usually a few cuss words added for good measure...or else you must remove some body panels.

 

[Roadkill]

capon, capoff, the capper

Betcha none of us spilled coolant because you can't get*&%^#:cus: coolant cap off. Anybody been able to do it?

+It takes a good amount of pressure to beat the detents, and you may actually find it more difficult to reinstall, but some practice will have you putting it on and off without problem.

Full On, at detent stop; push down & turn counter-clockwise
http://www.roadkillonline.net/imagedb_images/35_10562.JPG

Half On, past detent slope; note cap alignment with tank body; push down & turn counter-clockwise again
http://www.roadkillonline.net/imagedb_images/35_10563.JPG

Off - lift straight up; to reinstall, push straight down and apply downward pressure while rotating clockwise to full detent stop
http://www.roadkillonline.net/imagedb_images/35_10564.JPG

Be sure you're at the full detent after reinstalling. You won't lose your cap if it's half on, but you'll splash fluid.

I've added the above material to the "spydtech coolant" album at RoadkillOnline for future reference.

Ride on.
Roadkill
http://www.roadkillonline.net/imagedb_images/35_10319.JPG

 

[Bob Denman]

... having hands the size of a Cabbage Patch doll, combined with the strength of an Olympic athlete, QUOTE]
I'm in big trouble... My hands are the size of an Olympic athlete's, but I have the strength of a cabbage patch doll! :shocked:
Tim, Thanks for the pics! :thumbup:

 

[SilverSurfer]

Well, now we know.

Just wished to follow up on this to let anyone interested know how it's turning out. Bike is in the shop since this past Wednesday for the coolant leak, my DPS recall, a 6K mile service and I'm having them hang a couple of 'dongles' off the battery; one for generic 12V and another for Gerbing heated clothing.

The Coolant Leak: This turns out to be a leaking water pump seal. Bryan at Pete's Cycle in touch with BRP to get the parts. He wants to replace both seal and bearing and I agree, since there's no way we can be positive on what caused the seal to start leaking in the first place; e.g., whether the bearing went bad; causing pump to overpressure; then blow the seal, or if the seal is just bad or loose. I agreed and want to do the more aggressive solution just to be sure. FYI, the hose connections were solid and not leaking. I'll update on what BRP tells the dealer regarding this repair.

DPS recall went off without a hitch. Can't wait to try her out. I also went ahead and replaced the plugs, given they were the break-in plugs.

Oh ... also in this thread we were all beefing about the coolant reservior cap. I finally figured out the secret: Body position/body English. Beyond Roadkill's most excellent pics and directions, I discovered it's better NOT to squat down to look at the cap and try to turn it. Instead, get your hand in position and STAND UP, then turn. This gives you the full weight of your upper body to leverage that cap. It works.

In the meantime, it's going to be in the 20s this weekend. The RT is sitting warm and napping in the shop. I like that. The guys up at Pete's Cycle in North Baltimore have been phenomenal. Bryan, their service manager, is Spyder-trained himself; realizing they also sell Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Triumph. If you live within 10 miles of the dealership, they'll come pick up your bike and bring it back for free. Me ... I live over 25 miles away and didn't want to drive the RT ... (a) in 33 degree weather; and (b) with the coolant leak. So for a hundred bucks, they came down and picked up the bike with the roll-up and will bring it back to me when finished. Well worth the expense.

Just over five weeks 'till March and rydin' weather! Yee haw! hyea:

~ Surfer

 

[WaltH]

The "more aggressive solution" is the one called for in the shop manual. This should be covered by the warranty (mine was).

 

[SpyderWolf]

this involves either having hands the size of a Cabbage Patch doll, combined with the strength of an Olympic athlete, and usually a few cuss words added for good measure

:agree: This seems to be the mantra for a lot of work I have done on my Spyder.

Just wished to follow up on this to let anyone interested know how it's turning out. Bike is in the shop since this past Wednesday for the coolant leak, my DPS recall, a 6K mile service and I'm having them hang a couple of 'dongles' off the battery; one for generic 12V and another for Gerbing heated clothing.

The Coolant Leak: This turns out to be a leaking water pump seal. Bryan at Pete's Cycle in touch with BRP to get the parts. He wants to replace both seal and bearing and I agree, since there's no way we can be positive on what caused the seal to start leaking in the first place; e.g., whether the bearing went bad; causing pump to overpressure; then blow the seal, or if the seal is just bad or loose. I agreed and want to do the more aggressive solution just to be sure. FYI, the hose connections were solid and not leaking. I'll update on what BRP tells the dealer regarding this repair.

DPS recall went off without a hitch. Can't wait to try her out. I also went ahead and replaced the plugs, given they were the break-in plugs.

Oh ... also in this thread we were all beefing about the coolant reservior cap. I finally figured out the secret: Body position/body English. Beyond Roadkill's most excellent pics and directions, I discovered it's better NOT to squat down to look at the cap and try to turn it. Instead, get your hand in position and STAND UP, then turn. This gives you the full weight of your upper body to leverage that cap. It works.

In the meantime, it's going to be in the 20s this weekend. The RT is sitting warm and napping in the shop. I like that. The guys up at Pete's Cycle in North Baltimore have been phenomenal. Bryan, their service manager, is Spyder-trained himself; realizing they also sell Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Triumph. If you live within 10 miles of the dealership, they'll come pick up your bike and bring it back for free. Me ... I live over 25 miles away and didn't want to drive the RT ... (a) in 33 degree weather; and (b) with the coolant leak. So for a hundred bucks, they came down and picked up the bike with the roll-up and will bring it back to me when finished. Well worth the expense.

Just over five weeks 'till March and rydin' weather! Yee haw! hyea:

~ Surfer

Glad to hear they are working on getting your problem resolved. Hopefully you will have it back soon, and be prepped for ryding season. :thumbup:

 

[GaryTheBadger]

SilverSurfer - Regarding your comment "I'm having them hang a couple of 'dongles' off the battery; one for generic 12V and another for Gerbing heated clothing".....

When BRP factory reps were at last year's Bikes, Blues and BBQ event, upon seeing my Spyder accessory business t-shirt, he told me NOT to attach anything directly to the battery, the computer doesn't like it; it causes problems.

I have no doubt many Spyder owners have accessories directly attached to the battery with no problems; I'm just passing on what the factory rep told me.

 

[wyliec]

SilverSurfer - Regarding your comment "I'm having them hang a couple of 'dongles' off the battery; one for generic 12V and another for Gerbing heated clothing".....

When BRP factory reps were at last year's Bikes, Blues and BBQ event, upon seeing my Spyder accessory business t-shirt, he told me NOT to attach anything directly to the battery, the computer doesn't like it; it causes problems.

I have no doubt many Spyder owners have accessories directly attached to the battery with no problems; I'm just passing on what the factory rep told me.

I've just read on Eastern Beaver's website that you should not attach more than two accessories directly to the battery terminals on any bike. The reason is the bolt length and not getting a good connection. I'm sure there are those that have a few more than 2 extra wires under each battery terminal.

 

[NancysToy]

SilverSurfer - Regarding your comment "I'm having them hang a couple of 'dongles' off the battery; one for generic 12V and another for Gerbing heated clothing".....

When BRP factory reps were at last year's Bikes, Blues and BBQ event, upon seeing my Spyder accessory business t-shirt, he told me NOT to attach anything directly to the battery, the computer doesn't like it; it causes problems.

I have no doubt many Spyder owners have accessories directly attached to the battery with no problems; I'm just passing on what the factory rep told me.

The CanBus system can be sensitive to certain loads and switching. The conservative approach is to avoid attaching anything. While you would not poke a bear with a sharp stick, this approach is like going to the next county to cross the creek where the bear is fishing...it is serious overkill! The safest place to draw a load on any CanBus vehicle is actually directly at the battery. Connecting to an existing circuit is always riskier. Some types of loads may need additional protection, via in-line diodes. Lots of owners have attached loads to the battery with no problems whatsoever.

I've just read on Eastern Beaver's website that you should not attach more than two accessories directly to the battery terminals on any bike. The reason is the bolt length and not getting a good connection.

:agree: Using multiple of connectors in this area is also an invitation to corrosion. The best approach is to connect one lead from the battery to an auxiliary fuse block. This can be further protected from noise that would upset the Spyder by using a diode. Additional protection can be provided by connecting most loads through a switched relay, that is energized only when the Spyder is running.