Stupid Belt

[spyder01]

Another method that works well is use a wedge shaped piece of wood,(door stop) and wedge it between right side swing arm and tire. This keeps pressure on adjusters. Bruce

I like this,seems easy

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I like this,seems easy

Be sure to put it between the swingarm and rim like I show in the thread I link to above. The tire itself is flexible enough that the wedge being between the swingarm and tire will not absolutely keep the axle from moving.

 

[h0gr1der]

Not to throw a wrench in the mix, but just to be clear that you are only spinning the wheel forward....? If you spin it backward, it'll throw the tracking off.

From my experience only, you rotate the tire forward in the normal direction of travel to settle the belt. I shoot for the 1 credit card width, even though the spec is 1-5mm. You don't want the belt hard on the flange, but I like to run it close to the flange on the rear because (for my Spyder) the belt moves outboard when reversing. If you look at some videos of the belt running, they move about a bit when running normally.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Not to throw a wrench in the mix, but just to be clear that you are only spinning the wheel forward....? If you spin it backward, it'll throw the tracking off.

I've found it works best to turn the wheel in reverse for a little bit after the adjustment. Then turn it forward and check tracking. By running in reverse and then forward, the belt will settle in closer to it's true tracking position.

 

[2dogs]

I've found it works best to turn the wheel in reverse for a little bit after the adjustment. Then turn it forward and check tracking. By running in reverse and then forward, the belt will settle in closer to it's true tracking position.

Yes. you can rotate the wheel both directions but what you don't want is the belt walking off the sprocket in either direction.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Yes. you can rotate the wheel both directions but what you don't want is the belt walking off the sprocket in either direction.

True, but I've not seen it walk enough to be in danger of coming off if it's somewhere close to proper position.

 

[2dogs]

Sounds like you're good. Mine walks close to the outer edge in reverse but doesn't go past the edge. It rides the center of the sprocket when going forward.

 

[Windagetray]

There is a video somewhere wherein the mechanic explains that the easiest way to adjust the belt is with the tire constantly spinning with the weight of the spyder on it as in being on a "treadmill". He made the treadmill from 2 industrial rollers and aluminum frames/spacers on either side. I know he is right about this as every time I had my alignment perfect, it would walk off track and out of alignment when I put the bike back on the ground and took it for a ride. SOOOOO FRUSTRATING.... You know don't you??

So, I finally got it. A year later, stone through the belt, installed a new belt and THAT was more fun than a person deserves! WTH?? I finally got it but, shortly afterward I found this post (on this forum) and a video with this guy using the "treadmill" method. SO, I ordered myself some 1/2" plate aluminum and found some industrial rollers that would hold the weight of the Spyder with room to spare. I haven't built my treadmill yet but, I'm going to have to and soon...

...because, last year for my yearly Spyder upgrade, I thought I would treat myself to a 3-wheel laser alignment. I took it to a dealer in Hanover, PA. I have no idea what they did to the Spyder but, when I got it back, the belt was rubbing the inside flange after a short test ride. I took it immediately back. They adjusted... still no good. Took it back, ...still no good. OH... and it had "acquired" a new BAD vibration. I spent a lot of money to have my Spyder F'd up. The fourth time I took it back, the mechanic was VERY annoyed (yeah... I KNOW how he felt but, I thought HE was the expert... that's why I was paying the big bucks right??) so, I told them to just forget it. I've ridden it a few thousands of miles and no abnormal belt wear. Like I said, I must SOON build my treadmill!

Good luck all...

 

[h0gr1der]

There is a video somewhere wherein the mechanic explains that the easiest way to adjust the belt is with the tire constantly spinning with the weight of the spyder on it as in being on a "treadmill". He made the treadmill from 2 industrial rollers and aluminum frames/spacers on either side. I know he is right about this as every time I had my alignment perfect, it would walk off track and out of alignment when I put the bike back on the ground and took it for a ride. SOOOOO FRUSTRATING.... You know don't you??

So, I finally got it. A year later, stone through the belt, installed a new belt and THAT was more fun than a person deserves! WTH?? I finally got it but, shortly afterward I found this post (on this forum) and a video with this guy using the "treadmill" method. SO, I ordered myself some 1/2" plate aluminum and found some industrial rollers that would hold the weight of the Spyder with room to spare. I haven't built my treadmill yet but, I'm going to have to and soon...

...because, last year for my yearly Spyder upgrade, I thought I would treat myself to a 3-wheel laser alignment. I took it to a dealer in Hanover, PA. I have no idea what they did to the Spyder but, when I got it back, the belt was rubbing the inside flange after a short test ride. I took it immediately back. They adjusted... still no good. Took it back, ...still no good. OH... and it had "acquired" a new BAD vibration. I spent a lot of money to have my Spyder F'd up. The fourth time I took it back, the mechanic was VERY annoyed (yeah... I KNOW how he felt but, I thought HE was the expert... that's why I was paying the big bucks right??) so, I told them to just forget it. I've ridden it a few thousands of miles and no abnormal belt wear. Like I said, I must SOON build my treadmill!

Good luck all...

I like your moniker, not a lot of folks remember what a windage tray is. I do my belt adjustment a little differently, and my dealer will set the belt at 1050N no matter what I ask of them, which causes my vibration (so I had to learn quick). Long story short I use a ratchet strap on the right/brake side, attached the floorboard bracket at the front and hooked to a 1/2" rod going through the rear axle at the right to keep slight tension forward on the whole assembly. The belt tension on the left/drive side keeps the adjusters tight, the ratchet strap does the same on the other side. I then make small incremental adjustments until 1.- The Krikit II reading makes me happy, and 2.- The belt is running where I want it. I used to spin it by hand (of course, wheel off the ground) but now use my 4" belt sander with an 80 grit belt set at low speed to spin it. Some folks run the engine in gear, but I'm a little leery of my hands around that much spinning mass and horsepower. Just my $.02.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I like your moniker, not a lot of folks remember what a windage tray is.

I had no idea what a windage tray is until I Googled it! As soon as I saw the explanation I said, "That's why the Spyder engine has 'baffle' plates built into the bottom of the crankcase! It's for windage control!