Strong gasoline smell after riding - is this common? Any fix?

[Glenn B]

Hi all, I have found that my 2012rts has been giving off a strong gasoline smell after a long ride. It seems to be doing this on hot days. I also noticed a small drip of a clear liquid that has a gasoline smell. It looks like it might be coming from an over flow tube? Again this seems to only happen on hot days. Is this common? I've only had the spyder since April so have mainly been riding through our autumn and winter months down here in NZ.

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[ralph12345678910]

Are you topping your tank off when filling? Sounds like your gas is just overflowing due to heat.

 

[retired1]

Hi all, I have found that my 2012rts has been giving off a strong gasoline smell after a long ride. It seems to be doing this on hot days. I also noticed a small drip of a clear liquid that has a gasoline smell. It looks like it might be coming from an over flow tube? Again this seems to only happen on hot days. Is this common? I've only had the spyder since April so have mainly been riding through our autumn and winter months down here in NZ.

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If you use the search function, I am sure you will find enough information to keep you entertained for quite awhile. In fact, I think BRP put out a service bulletin fix for this problem. It worked for some, but not for others.

 

[PistonBlown]

Hi all, I have found that my 2012rts has been giving off a strong gasoline smell after a long ride. It seems to be doing this on hot days. I also noticed a small drip of a clear liquid that has a gasoline smell. It looks like it might be coming from an over flow tube? Again this seems to only happen on hot days. Is this common? I've only had the spyder since April so have mainly been riding through our autumn and winter months down here in NZ.

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Hi Mate,

First thing to check is that there was recall on the gas caps in Jan 2013 because of a gas smell after a ride (just like you're describing). This should have been replaced on yours already but it's possible it's not. Mine was supposed to have been done by one dealer but when I took it took it to another dealer they found it hadn't. Now the only problem with this is that the replacement may have another issue but it does stop the gas smell.

The second thing is the canister that's supposed to vent the tank. Sometimes petrol can soak the filter in the canister which leads to a strong petrol smell. This can happen if you 'overfill' your tank but as you probably know that's hard to do on a Spyder. However I also had issues after long drives and the problem went away after I did a 'Canisterectomy' and removed it. If you search this site for 'Canisterectomy' you should find plenty of instructions on how to do it. As you mention a tube this is the more likely cause.

On the gas cap side - even if you have the post recall gas cap it has a problem with getting stuck so you may want to consider ordering a Stant one instead:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0.XSTANT+10819.TRS0&_nkw=STANT+10819&_sacat=0

PS Where in NZ are you?

 

[Bob Denman]

If you can wrap the exhaust headers, and fuel tank with some protective heat barriers; it will certainly help with this issue. :2thumbs:

 

[jaherbst]

Sorry but this was an inherent problem with all 2013 RT's and some previous RT's. Those who ride in the cooler climes did not have this problem. I know the summer is hot there now and that's when this problem rears its ugly head. There is a factory air scoop and several other mods from the factory that has made a vast improvement. I was a volunteer for several of the factory "experiments" to try to solve this problem as I live in a very warm climate.

The pipe wrap, gas cap, canister, holes drilled in the seat never worked in the warmer climates. Our National Transportation Safety Board finally made BRP come up with an acceptable fix. This was the large Air Scoop modification installed and paid for by BRP.

Jack

 

[Bob Denman]

That action was taken to address the problems with the 2013 RTs...
He's got a 2012. :shocked:

 

[jaherbst]

That action was taken to address the problems with the 2013 RTs...
He's got a 2012. :shocked:

Bob the problem was with all RT's but worse with the 2013. Factory did replace or modify many scoops on previous year models of the RT besides the 2013 as a "gesture of Good Will" as they called it. Since he does not live in USA of course he would not be covered under the NTSB ruling.

There were many 2010-2012's that burned up also because of heat problems in the warmer climes. Just ask Ann Meyer and many others in the warmer climates that lost there RT's because of fires that had 2010-2012's. The worst was the one that lit off while parked at a gas pump.

Jack

 

[Bob Denman]

Your sweeping statement is alarming...
HOW MANY prior year bikes actually burned-up? :dontknow:
The 2013s brought this issue to the forefront, due to the changes that exacerbated the situation.
They weren't just getting "hot"; they were melting stuff under the Tupperware. :gaah:
And Ann's charred "Short-Bus"; was a 2013.
BRP has extended some of the 2013 fixes to other year bikes... :2thumbs:
But nothing has officially come out as a T.S.B. or a recall on them for the problem.

 

[Chupaca]

As I see it... Gas is venting from the fuel system. So checking where it can come from is the place to start. The gas cap, fuel tank fuel lines, filter, canister as mentioned above would be the places to start. Always will be stronger in warmer weather. Insulating the tank a bit more will keep the fuel a bit cooler and keep it from boiling and emitting fumes. keeping the fuel tank on the full side will also help this. Not over filling the fuel tank will keep the fuel from getting into the canister. Checking the lines going to the canister making them a bit longer with a goose neck to keep the fuel from going directly in will help. More venting in the engine compartment will clear it out faster. I still will have a whiff now and again depending on where, when and how I'm ryding. :gaah:

 

[Machinegunner]

Make sure the overflow tube from the canister extends below the body panel and doesn't drip on or near the exhaust pipe. Also, if you only smell it when you stop riding, don't stop.

 

[ARtraveler]

RE: Fires: I believe there were less than 15 documented fires over all the years. That was out of 50,000 plus :spyder2::ani29: built and sold at the time (2013). 15/50000 = .0003

Yes, I am glad I was not personally involved with a fire. That is a traumatic thing if it happens to you.

No one injured, and after much haggling (BRP dragging their feet), most people involved had their :spyder2:'s replaced and/or agreed to a small settlement.

 

[Glenn B]

Hi Mate,

First thing to check is that there was recall on the gas caps in Jan 2013 because of a gas smell after a ride (just like you're describing). This should have been replaced on yours already but it's possible it's not. Mine was supposed to have been done by one dealer but when I took it took it to another dealer they found it hadn't. Now the only problem with this is that the replacement may have another issue but it does stop the gas smell.

The second thing is the canister that's supposed to vent the tank. Sometimes petrol can soak the filter in the canister which leads to a strong petrol smell. This can happen if you 'overfill' your tank but as you probably know that's hard to do on a Spyder. However I also had issues after long drives and the problem went away after I did a 'Canisterectomy' and removed it. If you search this site for 'Canisterectomy' you should find plenty of instructions on how to do it. As you mention a tube this is the more likely cause.

On the gas cap side - even if you have the post recall gas cap it has a problem with getting stuck so you may want to consider ordering a Stant one instead:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0.XSTANT+10819.TRS0&_nkw=STANT+10819&_sacat=0

PS Where in NZ are you?

Thanks for pointer! I'm in Wellington.

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[Glenn B]

Gas is venting from the fuel system. So checking where it can come from is the place to start. The gas cap, fuel tank fuel lines, filter, canister as mentioned above would be the places to start. Always will be stronger in warmer weather. Insulating the tank a bit more will keep the fuel a bit cooler and keep it from boiling and emitting fumes. keeping the fuel tank on the full side will also help this. Not over filling the fuel tank will keep the fuel from getting into the canister. Checking the lines going to the cansiter making them a bit longer with a goose neck to keep the fuel from going directly in will help. More venting in the engine compartment will clear it out faster. I still will have a whiff now and again depending on where, when and how I'm ryding. :gaah:

Thanks for the advice.

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[Glenn B]

Make sure the overflow tube from the canister extends below the body panel and doesn't drip on or near the exhaust pipe. Also, if you only smell it when you stop riding, don't stop.

I couldn't agree more!

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[Glenn B]

Are you topping your tank off when filling sounds like your gas in just overflowing due to heat.

I think that might be the case and that is causing the overflow to drip gas. I've noted the dripping only happens just after the ride in the hot weather. I'm confident I don't have a leak.

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[PistonBlown]

Thanks for pointer! I'm in Wellington.

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Don't want to mention them by name but the dealer who didn't do the recall gas cap but said they had are in Lower Hutt;-) I'll PM you the details on how to tell the difference.

 

[Glenn B]

Don't want to mention them by name but the dealer who didn't do the recall gas cap but said they had are in Lower Hutt;-) I'll PM you the details on how to tell the difference.

Cheers, I bought mine in Auckland through a private sale last year so cannot confirm if they changed the cap or not.

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[Glenn B]

Gas is venting from the fuel system. So checking where it can come from is the place to start. The gas cap, fuel tank fuel lines, filter, canister as mentioned above would be the places to start. Always will be stronger in warmer weather. Insulating the tank a bit more will keep the fuel a bit cooler and keep it from boiling and emitting fumes. keeping the fuel tank on the full side will also help this. Not over filling the fuel tank will keep the fuel from getting into the canister. Checking the lines going to the cansiter making them a bit longer with a goose neck to keep the fuel from going directly in will help. More venting in the engine compartment will clear it out faster. I still will have a whiff now and again depending on where, when and how I'm ryding. :gaah:

Great-thanks.

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[robmorg]

Bob the problem was with all RT's but worse with the 2013. Factory did replace or modify many scoops on previous year models of the RT besides the 2013 as a "gesture of Good Will" as they called it. Since he does not live in USA of course he would not be covered under the NTSB ruling.

There were many 2010-2012's that burned up also because of heat problems in the warmer climes. Just ask Ann Meyer and many others in the warmer climates that lost there RT's because of fires that had 2010-2012's. The worst was the one that lit off while parked at a gas pump.

Jack

Jack,

You are correct (depending on how you define the word "many"). There were indeed other fires listed in the NHTSA investigation report on Spyders prior to the 2013 models - all from fuel system related problems. I thought at the time that the recall for the 2013's was done first because they were the worst; and that recalls for the prior years would shortly follow after the 2013 results were witnessed. When that didn't happen, I've always wondered why the NHTSA closed the complaint when the other model years were not similarly addressed.

I would personally recommend to owners of ANY model year Spyder that is exhibiting higher than normal heat, boiling fuel, fuel fumes that you can smell, or overflowing fuel canister, etc. that you take it to the dealer, open a claim to remedy the problem, and follow up with BRP, if necessary, to insist that it be done. BRP does now know how to fix the problem on any model year. I'm pretty sure, if you go that route, you will receive a satisfactory resolution of the problem.

Also, Bob is correct that wrapping the headers and shielding the fuel tank with heat reflective material (and I would add "removing and bypassing the catalytic converter") will alleviate the problem. It may not resolve it entirely, however. I did all of these things on my 2013 RT prior to the eventual recall, it it did make a substantial difference.