I was attempting to do the 1st oil change on my 2014 RT and ended up stripping both the T-40 and T-45 oil drain plugs. I don't know what they used to secure the plugs but now there is a nice round hole where the T's fittings were. The plugs would not loosen. Anybody have an idea as to how I now remove the plugs, other than taking it to the dealer?
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Stripped T-40 and T-45 oil drain plugs
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cptjam
Registered User
Yep
The one is an Allen the other a torx. Try beating them in with a hammer. Normally, just the first mm Is ruined. Get it in( use a metric Allen socket) with a hammer, and replace with a dimple drain plug. Horrible design!
If you can't remove, use a chisel first, then an easy out. Replace plug. Call me if you get stuck. Joe
The one is an Allen the other a torx. Try beating them in with a hammer. Normally, just the first mm Is ruined. Get it in( use a metric Allen socket) with a hammer, and replace with a dimple drain plug. Horrible design!
If you can't remove, use a chisel first, then an easy out. Replace plug. Call me if you get stuck. Joe
Joe, thanks so much. The service manual say's they are both T's, that would explain my problem. I guess you can't believe everything you read.
cuznjohn
New member
if your really not a shade tree mechanic i would think your best bet would be to have a shop do it for you. it will most likely need to be heated to get it out. the one thing i have found out about the bikes is, they don't use the best of bolts to put it together. i have stripped a few bolts so far. good luck
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: Pre-order your replacement plugs... :thumbup:
Magdave
New member
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Chupaca
New member
Varies...
most common are the M12x1.5 and the M14x1.5 The oil on the threads tends to crystalize like varnish (the original loctite) and the best way to get them out is to beat on them to break up the seal. Next steps are like Joe said. Try beating in a socket drive allen or torx that way you break the seal and have a good shot at getting them out. But as mentioned have some replacements on hand.....:gaah:
most common are the M12x1.5 and the M14x1.5 The oil on the threads tends to crystalize like varnish (the original loctite) and the best way to get them out is to beat on them to break up the seal. Next steps are like Joe said. Try beating in a socket drive allen or torx that way you break the seal and have a good shot at getting them out. But as mentioned have some replacements on hand.....:gaah:
JayBros
Well-known member
First, I have no financial interest in Dimple Products Incorporated, and second, I have no axe to grind with Gold Plug LLC. That said, the Gold Plug LLC 14 mm magnetic drain plug, MP-02, listed in their plug finder as the one for the Rotax 1330 engine is NOT the same as the BRP OEM M14 x 1.5 engine drain plug or the Dimple engine drain plug. The only thing all three plugs have in common is size, 14 mm. If one attempted to use the Gold Plug MP-02 plug I doubt it is long enough to fully engage the threads in the oil sump. The Gold plug does not accommodate the O-rings required for the OEM and Dimple plugs. Try it at your own risk. Dimple can charge what they do for the pair of plugs because to the best I can determine they have the corner on the market, for now. JMO.
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Bob Denman
New member
Do you have a link and/or part numbers available for the Dimple products?
SpyderAnn01
Active member
Just changed out a friend's plugs yesterday to dimple. Here is the link to their website. http://magneticdrainplugs.co/canamspyder.php
Bob Denman
New member
Thanks! :thumbup:
(How is Joe's Bike? :shocked
(How is Joe's Bike? :shocked
Trbayth
Active member
There have been numerous threads here over the years about these drain plugs with people announcing theirs are Torx or theirs are allen. I've come to the conclusion that it could be any combination of the two depending on what was in the parts bin that day during engine assembly.
Your best bet is to replace them with either the Goldplugs (what I did) or the Dimple and not stress over it. If you later take the bike to the dealer for an oil change they may complain about the change and make noises about voiding warrantees. IANAL but they would have to prove that the drain plug change actually caused whatever warranty issue you're claiming.
Your best bet is to replace them with either the Goldplugs (what I did) or the Dimple and not stress over it. If you later take the bike to the dealer for an oil change they may complain about the change and make noises about voiding warrantees. IANAL but they would have to prove that the drain plug change actually caused whatever warranty issue you're claiming.
I finally I got both plugs removed with a lot of brute force. Using a combination of heat and taking Joe's advice, hammering in a 6mm hex into the T-40 did the trick. You are correct, the Gold Plug is too shallow to catch the engine drain thread. The BRP plug is about 2 inches with a couple of O-Rings. I just ordered a set from Dimple.
ThreeWheels
Active member
With all due respect I have to disagree.
My dealer was ABSOLUTELY DELIGHTED that I changed to the hex head dimple plugs.
They were pleased as punch, and then ordered a set for their own bike.
Trbayth
Active member
Then count yourself as a very lucky person with an awesome dealer. :thumbup:
Who's your dealer? Might be worth a trip up to CT for me if I do need something.
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