Stebel horn

[DanT]

I would like to replace the OEM horn with a Stebel horn.
i have seen where others have plugged the OEM wiring onto the Stebel horn and that was it.
I've always used a relay to activate the Stebel horn. I was told using the OEM horn button to activate the more powerful Stebel horn puts a big strain on the OEM wiring and the OEM horn button. Has anyone the has done this found it to be a problem?

 

[Dochatley]

Why chance it. Relay is cheap and easy to hook up. Used one on my Stebel.

 

[jcthorne]

YES. I have seen the problem and replaced a control cluster as a result.

The horn switch in the handle bar is NOT rated for the 6 amps of current to drive the larger horn. They are very small contacts. Install the relay, the handlebar cluster is over $400 for the part and at least an hour labor to install.

The relay is FREE not cheap, it comes with the horn for a reason. Install it.

 

[Professor]

Spyderpops installed one on my RT at Spyderfest last year. After the installation, I asked if he used the relay. He had not. He said he has installed several that way with no problems. Mine has worked fine, but if I had known at the beginning of the installation, I would have asked him to use it, just to be sure it wouldn't draw too much current. Fortunately, there has been no problem.

 

[Grandpot]

Use the relay.

 

[Upstater]

I wired mine directly to the factory leads (based on forum feedback) and have had no problem for the last year. HOWEVER... I always have a nagging feeling when I use the horn. This weekend I'm doing a tear down to install a few new accessories. While the panels and frunk are off, I am going to install the relay using the switched wire from the RT heated passenger grip handle.

 

[jcthorne]

The relay is needed to protect the ground section of the circuit that goes through the button on the handlebar. The power feed for the stock horn is a direct feed from the fuse block. That part is fine.

 

[SPIDR1]

REPLACEMENT

Last week, I changed over to an air horn on my 13 RTL. Left the OE horn in place and mounted the air horn next to it. I used a plug n play wiiring harness with the relay. Heck, why take chances and later say, "darn, why didn't I do it in the first place".

I would like to replace the OEM horn with a Stebel horn.
i have seen where others have plugged the OEM wiring onto the Stebel horn and that was it.
I've always used a relay to activate the Stebel horn. I was told using the OEM horn button to activate the more powerful Stebel horn puts a big strain on the OEM wiring and the OEM horn button. Has anyone the has done this found it to be a problem?

 

[vstrommer]

I used the relay and harness, Easy install, cheap insurance and peace of mind....:thumbup:

 

[robmorg]

The relay is needed to protect the ground section of the circuit that goes through the button on the handlebar. The power feed for the stock horn is a direct feed from the fuse block. That part is fine.

...except that there is also potentially an awful lot more load on that fuse than just the horn. The same fuse feeds power to a "load shedding relay", which in turn feeds such current consuming accessories as the fog lights, the heated grips, the heated passenger hand grips, and the pump for the ACS system. That, together with the need to protect those small contacts inside the multi-function control module, are TWO good reasons to use a relay when installing a more powerful horn, IMO. :thumbup:

Once you've got the panels off to install the horn, installing a relay is not that much more difficult. (See attachment below.)

 

[Copperman]

They make a "Universal Plug-n-Play Wiring Harness for Motorcycle Air Horns" you can buy for around $20.00. Makes the install easy peasy and cheap insurance. I've used it on both my Spyders and my wife's Spyder. Google it.

 

[DanT]

...except that there is also potentially an awful lot more load on that fuse than just the horn. The same fuse feeds power to a "load shedding relay", which in turn feeds such current consuming accessories as the fog lights, the heated grips, the heated passenger hand grips, and the pump for the ACS system. That, together with the need to protect those small contacts inside the multi-function control module, are TWO good reasons to use a relay when installing a more powerful horn, IMO. :thumbup:

Once you've got the panels off to install the horn, installing a relay is not that much more difficult. (See attachment below.)

I'm going with the relay. I like the piece of mind knowing the horn has a relay and it's own fuse.
Thanks for the schematic. That great reference material.