Starting a Spyder off of a battery booster

[teninospyder]

Thanks for this information on my "Rugged" Jump Starter

The is the reply from Rugged Geek that helped me get mine going, scubadown. There might be something in here that helps. Otherwise call or email them direct. They are pretty helpful.

Peter,

Thank you for the additional information. Here are a couple points that may help us solve the problem:

• It does not work to test these cables on vehicles with fully charged batteries. The way the Intelli cables work is they will sense for a dead or low battery and transmit power only once that’s sensed. The max voltage on our jump starter when fully charged is approximately 12.6V, however a fully charged vehicle battery could be as high as 13V or more. So if you connect our jump starter to a fully charged vehicle battery, it won’t allow power to flow since doing so would only mean power would flow from the higher voltage source (car battery) to the lower voltage source (jump starter) which would be dangerous as you don’t want power flowing back into the jump starter unless it is through the charging port. So for the 2 Hyundai vehicles, this is likely what’s happening and it is doing as designed here. A better test here, and one we do often, is to disconnect the vehicle batteries completely and connect the jump starter direct to the battery wires from the vehicle.
• As for jump starting your Spyder: In this scenario, it should have worked for you, but my question here is: Did you try starting the bike, or did you not try as the light hadn’t gone green? In certain cases the accessory draw isn’t enough to turn the light green, especially if the battery on the bike/vehicle still has some charge as the accessories are likely being powered by that. That said, as soon as you hit the starter button, the draw from the starter motor should make the jump starter kick in and provide the power needed. In other words, the light doesn’t have to turn green to use the jump starter, just connect it as you would and start the bike/vehicle. The draw from that will be enough to kick it in and it should work for you.

I would this helps explain the situation. The intelliboost cables work great in 99% of situations, but with batteries that are partially or fully charged, the green light can sometimes lead to confusion as it won’t come until the starter is engaged due to the vehicle batteries powering the accessories. We will be updating our manual to better explain this, but I hope this email helps.

Please let me know if there is anything further I can help with,

Thank you again,
Samantha

Appreciate this info. SORRY :bowdown::bowdown: to the guy who didn't know what "jump starter" I was referring too in my post earlier. From his "kind words" I would have expected better. Anyway....others obviously knew what I was asking about. :yes::yes:

 

[Spyderglide]

Interesting thread... I got a Genius booster for Xmas, and charged it up. I thought today it was time to see if it was still charged. I plugged it in and the green light kept blinking. Not knowing, I just let it go. After 20-30 min. It stopped blinking and stayed lit. So it looks like you should charge these things every few weeks just to make sure there at full capacity!

 

[oldgoat]

Interesting thread... I got a Genius booster for Xmas, and charged it up. I thought today it was time to see if it was still charged. I plugged it in and the green light kept blinking. Not knowing, I just let it go. After 20-30 min. It stopped blinking and stayed lit. So it looks like you should charge these things every few weeks just to make sure there at full capacity![/QUOTE]


I have found that once charged to 100% my Rugged Geek stays at 100% for several months while being stored in my car or Spyder. (it has a small screen & shows % charge)

 

[ottawa-rider]

I have a Genius GB20, the lowest capacity one.

I carried it in the Spyder for the better part of 2 months last summer without ever recharging it.

When it came time to use it, it started the two-wheeler of a friend 3 times in the same day.

Of course, I recharged it that evening.

 

[Easy Rider]

. How can you provide advice without even knowing what a “Rugged Jumper” is?

The advice you are providing everyone is incorrect.

Because 50 years of working in the industry tells me how things like that work......in general.
What I said is NOT incorrect......in general.

If nothing else, my posts kept the thread "alive" while waiting for better answers.

So maybe you could explain why he is doing what they said to test it and it is NOT working ??
THAT was the purpose of his post, after all.

Edit: I see that you have done that now. I hope it helps him out.

 

[Peteoz]

Because 50 years of working in the industry tells me how things like that work......in general.
What I said is NOT incorrect......in general.

If nothing else, my posts kept the thread "alive" while waiting for better answers.

So maybe you could explain why he is doing what they said to test it and it is NOT working ??
THAT was the purpose of his post, after all.

Edit: I see that you have done that now. I hope it helps him out.

You’re joking, right? My post containing the Rigged Geek advice was posted a few minutes after my first post, well before you posted the above. I didn’t want Scubadown to head down the rathole of the “general’ information you were providing which was wrong in this case, despite your 50 years of working in the industry, so I wanted to get a warning out there as quickly as possible.

........and then you try to justify that you were not providing incorrect advice in this case? Really? :shocked:

Pete