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Start Problems

Naben

New member
I am having a problem with my bike starting. i have a 2011 RT SM5. It turns but doesn't start. Thought it might have been the battery, but took it out and had it tested and its good. I noticed on my volt meter when i turn it on, the meter goes to the first green light then drops down to the first yellow light, that was why initially i thought it was the battery, but its not. Going to have it towed to the dealer, but just wanted to ask if any of you might have any ideas what the problem is?
 
Was the battery load tested? And when you say "turns" are you meaning that the motor turns over but doesnt start? Any error codes?

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I would try to jump start it before towing to the dealer, was the battery tested under a load or just for volts???


Cruzr Joe
 
Do a Wide Open Throttle crank. Do the normal start stuff but before pressing the start button. Twist the throttle to wide open and hold it there while cranking the engine for about 20 seconds. Then wait a minute or more to let the starter cool. Then try normal start. May have to do this several times.
 
Do a Wide Open Throttle crank. Do the normal start stuff but before pressing the start button. Twist the throttle to wide open and hold it there while cranking the engine for about 20 seconds. Then wait a minute or more to let the starter cool. Then try normal start. May have to do this several times.
Interesting - hadn't heard this before. Curious to know what sort of problem might be resolved with this procedure.
 
Interesting - hadn't heard this before. Curious to know what sort of problem might be resolved with this procedure.

WOT mode. Turns the fuel injectors off. Allows excess fuel to clear the cylinders and dry the spark plugs enough so that they will actually produce a spark. A feature built in almost every fuel injected engine made.
 
I would try to jump start it before towing to the dealer, was the battery tested under a load or just for volts???


Cruzr Joe

I don't know what test he did. I took it to Autozone and he hooked it up to some tester he had in his hand and said the battery was charging.
 
I don't know what test he did. I took it to Autozone and he hooked it up to some tester he had in his hand and said the battery was charging.
You can load test it yourself. With a multimeter, look to see if the battery voltage drops below 10v when you are cranking it. If it does, you need a new battery.

I would try and jump it as well, just to make sure. Follow the procedure in the manual for jumping.

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I don't know what test he did. I took it to Autozone and he hooked it up to some tester he had in his hand and said the battery was charging.
Hmm, Cruzr Joe may have the right idea there. :thumbup: If jumpstarting it works, it may be time for a new battery, anyway. ;)
 
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As another poster said

I don't know what test he did. I took it to Autozone and he hooked it up to some tester he had in his hand and said the battery was charging.

If the original battery....get a new one....I had similar issue...tester said charging...etc etc etc...but wouldn't turn over...new battery and all was golden!!! :thumbup:
 
when i turn it on, the meter goes to the first green light then drops down to the first yellow light, that was why initially i thought it was the battery, but its not.

One of the first and most important rules of battery testing is that if a battery test bad, it is bad. If it tests good, it could be good or bad. Battery testing will actually only confirm a bad battery, not a good one.
 
All of the above...

The v-twins need a very strong battery. If it shows any signs of weakness it will not start. This is mostly in the cranking of the engine though. The WOT is the first thing to try if the engine is cranking normally. Was it starting normally before now..?? knowing a bit more as to how it was operating until now would help diagnose the problem. :dontknow:
 
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