Stalling at stops

[Soulman327]

Not what you want 3 days after buying, but my 2012 RT SE5 ran great till Friday. Then it started stalling at stops....not every time but several times. Frank has been helping me try to figure out the problem but I don't want to be his problem child and burden him with this all the time....
So...I'm asking you all for help/thoughts, as well. Anyway. it had a full tank of gas when I got it and this started at about 1/4 tank. I don't know how old the gas is or how long it had sat before I got it. At stops it would run rough, sputter and die but then fire right up and run fine. Frank suggested filling it up with fresh gas. I did that plus put in some gas treatment (probably more than I should). Still acting up. Will probably take more time.
Today, thought I would experiment. Fired it up, got it good and warm. Ran smooth at 1300-1400 RPM. Then ran the RPM's up to 5000 for a few seconds (multiple times). EVERY time, when I let off the throttle it would run rough between 1000-1200 RPM and after 10-15 seconds would smooth out to 1300-1400 again.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

 

[SpyderJerry]

stalling

Not what you want 3 days after buying, but my 2012 RT SE5 ran great till Friday. Then it started stalling at stops....not every time but several times. Frank has been helping me try to figure out the problem but I don't want to be his problem child and burden him with this all the time....
So...I'm asking you all for help/thoughts, as well. Anyway. it had a full tank of gas when I got it and this started at about 1/4 tank. I don't know how old the gas is or how long it had sat before I got it. At stops it would run rough, sputter and die but then fire right up and run fine. Frank suggested filling it up with fresh gas. I did that plus put in some gas treatment (probably more than I should). Still acting up. Will probably take more time.
Today, thought I would experiment. Fired it up, got it good and warm. Ran smooth at 1300-1400 RPM. Then ran the RPM's up to 5000 for a few seconds (multiple times). EVERY time, when I let off the throttle it would run rough between 1000-1200 RPM and after 10-15 seconds would smooth out to 1300-1400 again.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

You may have cracked vacumm hoses on the throttle body left side. What I would do first is run some Sea Foam thru on gas tank fill. May have a sticky throttle body.

 

[stetsr]

Stalling

Had that problem was a bad kill switch? hold down on the kill switch and see if it stalls. I wedged a small piece of rubber wedge in the top of switch forcing the switch to stay in the run position?

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking.....

Generally we see that it is in fact the vaccum hoses and they are best replaced with silicone hoses rather than the OEM hoses. There have been occasions that the throttle body boots that hold them onto the cylinders have dried out and are cracked as well. Quick check if you can get the panels off is to spray some WD40 around both areas and see if the rpm changes .:thumbup:

 

[youngers]

Hey guy , like we were talking about , do another tank of gas , mine had the rough idle ,when I purchased the bad gas , but keep in mind , you still might need to replace the hoses , wonder how long to drive to you ?

 

[safecracker]

3 things come to mind,
Vacuum hoses, left side
Throttle body sticking, possoble, usually you get a P1614 code
My guess is a bad purge valve.
Bruce

 

[Soulman327]

Hey guy , like we were talking about , do another tank of gas , mine had the rough idle ,when I purchased the bad gas , but keep in mind , you still might need to replace the hoses , wonder how long to drive to you ?

Too long.....about 4.5 hours :doorag:

 

[OlJim]

Stalling

Start with the easiest first, SeaFoam or some other gas treatment in gas and then drive it like you stole it. Vacuum hoses on maps sensor, be sure to make them the exact same length as the originals. Canesterectomy to cure a bad purge valve. new plugs and plug wires, o2 sensor. Have fun. Keep us informed of your progress.

PS It took all of the above except the 02 sensor for my 2011 RT but it now runs better than ever. Street was a little damp today and actually broke the rear tire loose in second gear. Felt good.

 

[Soulman327]

As usual

Great advice and plenty of it! I took a ride last night of about 16 miles down some country roads with may stops and starts. It only stalled once at the stop sign by my house. I will follow the advice given (the smart thing to do)....in order....
*Another tank of fresh gas/Seafoam
*Hoses
*Purge valve
*Plug/wires
*O2 Sensor

And I'll check the kill switch, as suggested.

Updates as they happen....

Thanks! again!
John

 

[Easy Rider]

3 things come to mind,
Vacuum hoses, left side
Throttle body sticking, possoble, usually you get a P1614 code
My guess is a bad purge valve.
Bruce

How about a flooded evap canister ??

AND....SeaFoam is NOT a good fuel system cleaner. It just isn't.
Berrymans B12 and Gumout are much better.
And Techron for periodic injector cleaning.

Sometimes putting in too much stabilizer or fuel system cleaner can actually CAUSE it to run rough.

 

[scarletspyder]

had same problem with my 2011 few months back.pull up to stop sign and had to hold throttle, wouldn't idle it would shut off at stop sign and lights.... found cracked vacuum lines and weak battery. problem solved

 

[Soulman327]

Update - I love my Spyder again!

Thanks to all the help from those here and especially to youngers (and his patience)!

After a week of of frustration and fighting with "Smokey", putting in fresh gas and fuel injector cleaner, having it run even worse, I decided to dig deeper. I took off the panels, found the (cracked) hoses, and decided they were the problem. Research on here was that I needed 2 hoses 3 mm i.d. and 85 mm long. Fine, except all I could find was 2.8 mm i.d. or 4 mm i.d. so I got both. 4 mm was too big so 2.8 mm it was. Put them on, fired up the bike, and guess what...STILL ran like crap...for about 10 minutes, then it smoothed out. Being the optimist, I put the 51 pieces of plastic dontknow back on and went for a short ride. I'd like to say that it performed flawlessly......so I will! :clap: Took a long ride today in 100 degrees and, again, ran beautifully. :2thumbs: I love my Spyder again!

Thanks again!! Youse guys are the best! :yes:hyea::clap::thumbup:

John

 

[Easy Rider]

putting in fresh gas and fuel injector cleaner, having it run even worse,

It is not too uncommon for a dose of fuel system cleaner to make it run worse for a little while......IF you haven't been in the habit of using it before.
Putting in too MUCH cleaner can make it run bad too.

 

[youngers]

Hahahaha , an't. Love grand . Sure glad she is doing great again

 

[oberon23]

I have a 2012 rt that started surging and almost stalling. RPMs bounced 1k-2k. It felt like a fouled plug under acceleration, sluggish until the rpms were up. I removed the purge valve line form the evap canister and plugged it with a bolt and tape. I fired it up and it idled pretty smooth for about 10 min but went back to idling rough once it got warmed up. Surging wasnt as bad but still up and down rpms. I am gonna drain/replace the gas but im guessing that gas isnt the culprit or it wouldn't idle smooth at all. I would like to try replacing the vacuum lines next but I can not find any instructions (videos or pics). Can anyone point me to them if they exist? Also, any other input is appreciated.