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Stalling 2016 RT Spyder - any ideas?

D

dorourke7280

New member
I have a 2016 RTS, with just under 12,000 miles. Ran fine until yesterday. Runs at idle, then coughs, sputters and dies. I added fuel stabilizer thinking there may be water in the tank, then filled with fresh fuel. No change, so I installed a new fuel filter. Still no change. Any thoughts? If I can figure out how, I’ll post a video of it stalling out. Thanks, Dan
 
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Coughs, sputters, and dies while still at idle? Like it's running out of gas? Or coughs, sputters and dies when you try to increase the throttle? Was it sitting for awhile? Why did you think water in the gas? Understand about ethanol fuel - If you've had enough water in the gas to cause phase separation, there is no additive that will reverse that. You are then stuck with a pool of water and ethanol in the bottom of the tank. Any more gas you add just floats on top of it. You need to drain the tank and start over.

These symptoms also mimic a machine that was in here with a failing fuel pump. It didn't trip the code until it died. Waiting for the video.
 
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Coughs, sputters and dies at idle, like it’s running out of gas. I was keeping it in a covered trailer, and it can get really hot in there on hot sunny days. I thought maybe the heat and then nighttime cooling might cause condensation. Just grasping at straws, though.
 
dorourke7280 said:
Coughs, sputters and dies at idle, like it’s running out of gas. I was keeping it in a covered trailer, and it can get really hot in there on hot sunny days. I thought maybe the heat and then nighttime cooling might cause condensation. Just grasping at straws, though.
Click to expand...

Well, you're probably right about the condensation. Especially if the tank wasn't chock full of fuel. The more airspace, the more condensation. Throttle body cleaning wasn't really an issue with the 1330. If it was mine, I'd syphon out the gas tank completely and refill. Sounds like it does tolerate a little revving up, but then can't maintain. But even if you don't rev it, the engine still stalls? Plus there's a rough idle, too. That was exactly the way a 2014 acted here, just before the fuel pump kicked the bucket. Happened right at the end of the driveway. Low, oscillating fuel pressure, then no fuel pressure. Engine stalls. Try new fuel. Sorry. Wish I had a better answer.

PS. Try calling up codes right after the engine dies before you turn off the key. Remember, they don’t just pop up on the screen automatically.
 
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I went out to put all the panels back on and realized I had left the key in the on position. After charging the battery and restarting it, I got the Check Engine light and these Codes:

IMG_3784.jpg.

Time to Google!
 
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dorourke7280 said:
I went out to put all the panels back on and realized I had left the key in the on position. After charging the battery and restarting it, I got the Check Engine light and these Codes:

View attachment 208787.

Time to Google!
Click to expand...


While condensation &/or contaminated fuel does sound like a real possibility, those codes might be pointing at something else that's worth a look! ;)

Occasionally, searching here first means you don't need to goggle! :rolleyes:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...odes-P0556-and-P0504-mean-Fix&highlight=P0556

The P0000 code is a non-event too -

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?17341-Limp-mode-code-P0000&p=183149#post183149

Reading those again, and if you can exclude the condensation/contaminated gas issue, then I'd guess that those codes are all basically cos your battery was dead &/or dying; and that your stalling may also have been due to that! :shocked: These Spyder things really are power hungry , and if your battery isn't up to keeping all the computers going all the time, then your Spyder can/will fail to run properly much like you've described/shown! :banghead:

It is a little concerning that your 1330 powered 2016, which has a pretty good alternator that should be up to keeping it all running OK once started, effectively without any battery at all, didn't do that - but then again, even the best of alternators need SOME power to actually start working initially, and if your battery was so depleted that the act of cranking starter AND getting all the computers up & running dragged the voltage output below the minimum voltage required (which is about 12 volts!), you'd stall out in much the same way as you describe!! :sour:

So regardless of how old it is; how new it might be; or even what voltage your battery says it has NOW, I'd strongly suggest that you get both the battery AND the charging system tested under load, and while less than 12 volts under load might still be OK for less power hungry vehicles, if the battery in your Spyder doesn't show AT LEAST 12 volts while under normal starting load,or the charge system doesn't provide over 14 volts while it's trying to charge, then you need to at least replace the battery, then get the charge system checked again! :lecturef_smilie:

Just Sayin' :thumbup:
 
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dorourke7280 said:
I went out to put all the panels back on and realized I had left the key in the on position. After charging the battery and restarting it, I got the Check Engine light and these Codes:

View attachment 208787.

Time to Google!
Click to expand...

Those are typical codes received when the system has been on and the voltage went low. For example, when you go into the house and leave the key on. They aren’t indications of the root cause. But, easy enough to rest your mind about. Completely charge your battery, put a meter on it and start up the bike, and watch it until the engine dies. If you’re charging around 14.5 volts - ish, the entire time with no indication of trouble and your connections are tight, then I think you have an answer for that. Also, the codes should clear themselves.

I would love, love, love for this to only be a battery problem. But……

PS. Never use Google for researching Spyder codes unless you’re Googling Spyderlovers. The Spyder is not an OBD II system. You will most often get a hit for a generic OBD II code, not a Spyder code.
 
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Ok, here’s the latest. I fully charged the battery and I still get the engine light and the same four codes. I know the P0000 code isn’t a problem, and two of them are brake system codes. Does anyone know what the 062 code means? And is it possible that it stalls because “hey, dummy, you’ve got brake issues”?
 
Ran fine until yesterday.
Click to expand...
How many days and miles were between Ran fine and yesterday? What was happening with your Spyder between those events -- was it in storage, were you making any modifications, did you have the bodywork to fuss with any wires, did you add gasoline (what octane and brand), etc?
 
dorourke7280 said:
Ok, here’s the latest. I fully charged the battery and I still get the engine light and the same four codes. I know the P0000 code isn’t a problem, and two of them are brake system codes. Does anyone know what the 062 code means? And is it possible that it stalls because “hey, dummy, you’ve got brake issues”?
Click to expand...

Type that code in its entirety into the search field - ie. 'P062C'; tick the Search Titles Only box in the drop-down list below the Search Field; submit the Search & then chose which thread you wish to read first; using the 'go back' arrows to come back to the Search Results and choose the next thread you want to read! There's a few of them; IIRC, there's even a few with ALL of those codes, & possibly a couple more besides! :thumbup:
 
I was able to clear all the codes by turning the key to ON and holding the brake pedal down hard, turning the key OFF, and keeping the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. I added a Lucas Oil fuel treatment and I’m going to let it sit overnight. If that doesn’t change anything I’m going to siphon all the fuel out of the tank.
 
dorourke7280 said:
I was able to clear all the codes by turning the key to ON and holding the brake pedal down hard, turning the key OFF, and keeping the brake pedal down for 30 seconds. I added a Lucas Oil fuel treatment and I’m going to let it sit overnight. If that doesn’t change anything I’m going to siphon all the fuel out of the tank.
Click to expand...

If that still doesn't work and you think it's water contamination... Over the past few decades, I've had very good luck with a product labeled "HEET" - try that before you drain the tank. ... Good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
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dorourke7280 said:
Ok, here’s the latest. I fully charged the battery and I still get the engine light and the same four codes. I know the P0000 code isn’t a problem, and two of them are brake system codes. Does anyone know what the 062 code means? And is it possible that it stalls because “hey, dummy, you’ve got brake issues”?
Click to expand...

According to my Spyder2 App - P062C: vehicle speed on CAN not plausible - message counter possibility check of vehicle speed failed- check for VCM fault. ** battery fully charged? :thumbup: terminals clean & tight? :dontknow: ** secured with star washers?

FD290F33-2E9D-4BCC-9369-2445E16326FC.jpg

(between the terminal & the post, not just between the bolt & the terminal ;) )
 
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Update: this morning, after the fuel additive worked overnight, there was a big improvement. Seemed to hold idle between 1000-1200. I took it on a ride of about 5 miles and it ran like a champ. When I pulled back into the driveway and stopped, it stalled out. I’m hoping the additive just needs more time to do its thing.
 
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