Stalled RT

[Dakota]

Yesterday, I came to a busy intersection to make a left hand turn and my new orbital blue RT SE5 died on me. When I hit the start switch to try to restart it, it would lurch forward as if the clutch was not engaged, even with my foot on the brake. On the display it said the bike was in first gear and I could not get it to go into neutral at all, no matter what I tried. I thought if I got it into neutral I could at least push it out of the intersection. (I did not use the #13 wrench to manually change gears at this time) The third or fourth time to try to restart it resulted in it continuing to lurch forward, but then the screen would go blank, the Can Am logo come back on and it would ask me to press the “Mode” button again. Of course this is all in the middle of rush hour traffic. I called my son to come and give me a jump start and when he did the starter would go but the engine would not catch. Again, this was after hours and the dealership was closed. Finally I was just going to have it towed and the motor finally started and I was able to drive it home. At home I put on the trickle charger and let the battery charge up. Today, I rode it a few times and seems to be no problem. Does all the trouble I had seem like it could have come from a low battery or could there be some other cause? Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. Thank you. :helpsmilie:

 

[MarkLawson]

Yesterday, I came to a busy intersection to make a left hand turn and my new orbital blue RT SE5 died on me. When I hit the start switch to try to restart it, it would lurch forward as if the clutch was not engaged, even with my foot on the brake. On the display it said the bike was in first gear and I could not get it to go into neutral at all, no matter what I tried. I thought if I got it into neutral I could at least push it out of the intersection. (I did not use the #13 wrench to manually change gears at this time) The third or fourth time to try to restart it resulted in it continuing to lurch forward, but then the screen would go blank, the Can Am logo come back on and it would ask me to press the “Mode” button again. Of course this is all in the middle of rush hour traffic. I called my son to come and give me a jump start and when he did the starter would go but the engine would not catch. Again, this was after hours and the dealership was closed. Finally I was just going to have it towed and the motor finally started and I was able to drive it home. At home I put on the trickle charger and let the battery charge up. Today, I rode it a few times and seems to be no problem. Does all the trouble I had seem like it could have come from a low battery or could there be some other cause? Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. Thank you. :helpsmilie:

This is the first I've heard of this problem, so I can't help from experience. I'm sure you'll have your dealer check it out & would appreciate hearing more when you learn more.

 

[Magic Man]

Some SE RT models have had this problem.

Lamonster had this problem in Daytona several times, and is now running a different clutch pack in his RT that BRP sent him to try out.

I have been told the clutch can "hang up" and not release all the way causing this to happen.

BRP knows about this condition, but what if any "feild fix" they have as of yet I do not know.

I am not sure if the clutch Lamont is running is a "feild fix" or if he is doing some R&D feild testing for them. :dontknow:

MM

 

[Lamonster]

It sounds like you have the dreaded centrifugal clutch problem. I'm not sure why they all don't do it but I had mine changed for this very reason.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17672


I would get the latest update too.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18219

 

[ddileo]

Replace the centrifugal clutch

Lamondster is right, had the same problem(s), struggled with this for some time. Dealer replaced centrifugal clutch per BRP. Shifts smoother then when I first got it. Sorry to be the bearer of the bad news brother noble. Warranty item, dealer and BRP should take care of it. :yikes:

 

[Lamonster]

Lamondster is right, had the same problem(s), struggled with this for some time. Dealer replaced centrifugal clutch per BRP. Shifts smoother then when I first got it. Sorry to be the bearer of the bad news brother noble. Warranty item, dealer and BRP should take care of it. :yikes:

The good news was this was a two hour job to fix, not much longer than a oil change.

 

[westgl]

I had the same problem

when the Creep problem started with my:spyder2:, when I would stop at a light the engine would die.

They replaced my Centrifugal clutch, a few weeks ago. the Creeping went away and came back.

OK My Spyder is back at the dealer again for the Centrifugal Clutch

I took it in for what I thought was a delayed shift.

My dealer test rode the Spyder said It was not a software download, but the Clutch hanging up & causing the delay, (The delay was a slipping clutch)

My dealer, (I am happy to have such a Great Dealer) said it was three weight/bearings that were changed out for the newer ones.

The weights I had, have a bushing in the center, the bushing seem to cause more friction.

My Dealer replaced the weights with the new ones that have roller bearings.

Let me describe the difference,

Before:
From a Stop: It takes a lot of throttle movement to get away from a stop, felt like clutch was slipping most of the time away from a stop. But kinda hard to tell it is slipping, just not moving away from the stop as fast as it should.
Shifting: Clutch was slipping really bad and made it feel like a delayed shift

After:
From a Stop: It takes very little throttle movement to get away from a stop, and throttle feel is much more responsive.
Shifting: Very quick, positive shift, after shift bike just moves no slip

All I can say is WOW!! WOW!!! WOW!!!
This is sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
much better.

I want to thank my dealer, Water World for doing such a great job, getting my Spyder 1st working correctly, & 2nd getting it done so fast.

 

[BigAl]

Yesterday, I came to a busy intersection to make a left hand turn and my new orbital blue RT SE5 died on me. When I hit the start switch to try to restart it, it would lurch forward as if the clutch was not engaged, even with my foot on the brake. On the display it said the bike was in first gear and I could not get it to go into neutral at all, no matter what I tried. I thought if I got it into neutral I could at least push it out of the intersection. (I did not use the #13 wrench to manually change gears at this time) The third or fourth time to try to restart it resulted in it continuing to lurch forward, but then the screen would go blank, the Can Am logo come back on and it would ask me to press the “Mode” button again. Of course this is all in the middle of rush hour traffic. I called my son to come and give me a jump start and when he did the starter would go but the engine would not catch. Again, this was after hours and the dealership was closed. Finally I was just going to have it towed and the motor finally started and I was able to drive it home. At home I put on the trickle charger and let the battery charge up. Today, I rode it a few times and seems to be no problem. Does all the trouble I had seem like it could have come from a low battery or could there be some other cause? Any suggestions would be greatfully appreciated. Thank you. :helpsmilie:

I had the exact same thing happen to me this past Friday evening (June 25). Unfortunately, I was not able to get it restarted, even with jumping it with a car. I had to call a tow truck with a flat bed. We winched it on with the back tire skidding since it was still locked in 1st gear. Hauled it to the dealer that evening. He was open on Saturday morning; the mechanic came out, put a jumper battery on it and it started immediately. He then put a trickle charger on it for the weekend and returned it to me Monday. Have been driving it since with no problem; even the stalling when braking for a stop appears to have been corrected.

When the battery dies, everything on the Spyder dies. The question is, what caused the drain on the battery in the first place?

 

[CyncySpyder]

SE5 Recall

Ive had the same issue, picked up my Unit May 26th, & started having the Slip issue from 1st to 2nd from day one & the stalling/lurching issue started June 4th. I almost hit a guy in a crosswalk cause my RTS decided to keep going instead of stopping, had to slam the brakes and cause it to stall. This is now starting to be common among the SE5's, tho as Lamonster stated, its random & not effecting all of them but very many. BRP has issued a recall, and all work should be covered under warranty.

After my unit sat at the dealer awaiting the recall parts for almost 4 weeks, I finally got it back late Saturday (Thanks Lamonster:bowdown:/Carlos). The good news, is that I have my unit back & it seems they fixed the issue with the clutch not wanting to allow the byke to come to a complete stop without either dying or lurching forward. For many dealers, this will be the 1st time they've done this repair. My dealer (not any more) said BRP is allowing them 2 hrs to do the job, but since I was the 1st for them to do, it took them almost a day & a half :cus:.

Now tho, I still have the issue with the delayed shift, especially from 1st to 2nd, but this at least I can deal with and still ryde. I stopped by another dealer today to talk with them, and he said he's so backed up, has over 25 units sitting & waiting for the parts to come in, & that I should call him next week, and he'd see if there was any hope of getting me in, in the foreseeable future.

So, the Drama & the waiting continues. But at least now, its bearable as I can still ryde my addiction til someone can make it right ray:

Be careful, call your dealer about the recall & get yourself on the waiting list. Thats the best advise I can give ya opcorn: & I wish you luck

 

[NancysToy]

Now tho, I still have the issue with the delayed shift, especially from 1st to 2nd, but this at least I can deal with and still ryde. I stopped by another dealer today to talk with them, and he said he's so backed up, has over 25 units sitting & waiting for the parts to come in, & that I should call him next week, and he'd see if there was any hope of getting me in, in the foreseeable future.

Are you keeping the throttle on when shifting? The Spyder will blip the throttle itself, so you do not need to back the throttle off. Also, are you shifting at high enough rpm? Shifting too close to minimums can be a problem. Either of these can cause a lag in shifting. If you are not doing either, I would have your dealer look at your Spyder again when they have time. Better yet, ask them to call BRP tech now, and ask advice, so they will be prepared when you come in.

 

[CyncySpyder]

lag

I'll pay more attention to my RPMs today as I ryde to see if I'm to low as you suggest I may be. If I don't release the throttle when it happens, it revs extremely high & I get bucked when it finally does make the shift. Thanks for the advice, I'm going to lunch in a few & I'll see what happens & let you know.

 

[NancysToy]

I'll pay more attention to my RPMs today as I ryde to see if I'm to low as you suggest I may be. If I don't release the throttle when it happens, it revs extremely high & I get bucked when it finally does make the shift. Thanks for the advice, I'm going to lunch in a few & I'll see what happens & let you know.

Something is wrong there. The SE should not delay a shift long enough to zing the throttle, if the throttle is held steady. You dealer will need to take a look. The fortunate thing is that it does sound repeatable, so they should be able to track it down.

 

[CyncySpyder]

still lag'n

Are you keeping the throttle on when shifting? The Spyder will blip the throttle itself, so you do not need to back the throttle off. Also, are you shifting at high enough rpm? Shifting too close to minimums can be a problem. Either of these can cause a lag in shifting. If you are not doing either, I would have your dealer look at your Spyder again when they have time. Better yet, ask them to call BRP tech now, and ask advice, so they will be prepared when you come in.

Just back from a nice brisk run about town for lunch & wham, it happened again. Seems there's no pattern to the madness. First few shifts with no problem. Shifted from 1st to 2nd at 4000 rpms & all is well. Did it at 3500, AOK, 4500, AOK, tried it again at 4000, UMMMM NOT THIS TIME, the lag was back. As usual, if I don't release the throttle, she's scream'n at me. So I release & she catches back up & seems to be fine. The shop already had her almost an entire month & assured me all was checked out & fine. Just think'n about have'n to take her back makes me sick!!! The next closest dealer said it would be weeks to even look at her.... UGH

 

[Questions]

My wife had the same thing happen. It was 1:30 in the morning, and I was out of town. (Try explaining to your wife what a 13mm open end wrench looks like and where the stub was that she was supposed to use to manually shift the bike...at 1:30, over a cell phone, while she is stalled in the middle of the road)

Long story short...the bike has been in the shop for 5 weeks. This Saturday will be the 6 week mark.

 

[CyncySpyder]

This Boat Is SOOO Big, Must be the Titanic

My wife had the same thing happen. It was 1:30 in the morning, and I was out of town. (Try explaining to your wife what a 13mm open end wrench looks like and where the stub was that she was supposed to use to manually shift the bike...at 1:30, over a cell phone, while she is stalled in the middle of the road)

Long story short...the bike has been in the shop for 5 weeks. This Saturday will be the 6 week mark.

Damn, I'm sorry. This is turning into a Very Crowded Boat that many of us are in, and its not right. BRP Really Needs To Step Up There Game.

Have you talked/emailed Carlos? He helped me out. I know he's on Vaca til the 6th (I believe) but it can't hurt to try. As I was told, the SQUEAKY Wheel gets the Oil.

I wish you luck.