ST with Check engine light & codes P0107 and C1290 - fixes?

[scubadown]

So was out for a short trip yesterday and heard what sounded like a backfire. The check engine light came on, but it got me home. No limp mode, but I did baby it and it felt different. Tried to start it this morning and it would fire but not run. Check engine light was still on. Read the codes using the three button method and they are P0107 and C1290.

The bike is a 2013 Spyder ST-L with the 998 engine and about 16,000 miles on it.

Sounds like maybe a bad MAP sensor. Are these hard to replace? I do my own oil, brakes, tires etc.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, you're right that P0107 is for a MAP sensor low voltage and could indicate failure. But, C1290 is for a VCM low or high voltage and would indicate a system wide voltage problem - Too Hi or Too Low. Too Low in this case. One of those might just be a red herring. Or, you got the MAPS low voltage because of an overall system low voltage.

The MAP sensor isn't hard to replace and doesn't need a BUDS initialization. And you'd want to replace those two vacuum lines while you're there. They are 3mm ID and both 85mm long. Use high quality silicon vacuum tubing. Actually, you might want to replace those two vacuum lines first, as well as checking for what might only be a loose connector, and see if it starts. All of this is on the left side of the throttle body.

But first, measure your battery voltage with the engine stopped and it should be between 11 and 13 volts. If you can get it running, the voltage should be 13 to 14.7 volts. Check your battery terminal connections for tightness. This whole thing relates to out of spec voltage or a voltage spike. If the engine is acting like a flooded engine does, try the Wide Open Throttle procedure to clear it out. The 998 is notorious for flooding sometimes. Forum search will get you that info. Try to rule out an overall system voltage problem unless you've already covered that step before you came here.

MAPS don't fail vary often at all, but it's always a possibility. Usually it's just a vacuum line issue, loose connection, or critters have chewed on something electrical. Good Luck.

 

[Bfromla]

:agree: & Multiple codes =battery, check clean & tight , load test Hopefully will be enough to run & progress to clearing codes & on to further testing.

 

[scubadown]

Thanks all. Will look at battery connections.

 

[scubadown]

Battery looks good. 12.8VDC before starting 13.8VDC while running.

I've found if I start it with firm throttle and keep it running about 3,500 rpms until it warms up some it does run and seems to run OK. After starting it does flash the check engine light.

Snowbelt - can you tell me which side on the engine the MAP sensor is on (R or L), thanks.

 

[Bfromla]

still good to add star washers

 

[Mikey]

Battery looks good. 12.8VDC before starting 13.8VDC while running.

I've found if I start it with firm throttle and keep it running about 3,500 rpms until it warms up some it does run and seems to run OK. After starting it does flash the check engine light.

Snowbelt - can you tell me which side on the engine the MAP sensor is on (R or L), thanks.

Left side

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Battery looks good. 12.8VDC before starting 13.8VDC while running.

I've found if I start it with firm throttle and keep it running about 3,500 rpms until it warms up some it does run and seems to run OK. After starting it does flash the check engine light.

Snowbelt - can you tell me which side on the engine the MAP sensor is on (R or L), thanks.

Thanks Mike. Yep. Left side. Look for that sensor in the picture. Your hoses won’t be orange, they’ll be black. While it is running, check the codes again and see if anything different, or if it is still indicating MAPS issue. Replace those little vacuum lines.

 

[scubadown]

Thanks,

I see one vacuum line. Where is the other? Does the sensor have two vacuum ports? Guess I will have to pull out the sensor to see (access ) the other one.?? Any tricks to pulling it out.



Thanks again for the help.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yep. The other vacuum line is hiding. It’s on the front going to the front half of the throttle body. Look at my picture. If you need to, you can undo that big screw and turn it towards you a bit to get a better angle on it. But, most times you can move some of that other stuff out of the way. There are two vacuum line connections on the sensor, that go to two vacuum connections on the throttle bodies. The throttle body connections have barbs on them which makes them harder to remove. The sensor connections will just slide off.

 

[scubadown]

Got it out. Is it 3mm vacuum hose (silicon)?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Got it out. Is it 3mm vacuum hose (silicon)?

Right. 3mm ID, or imperial equivalent that is closest. NAPA probably gives you the size in decimal or fraction of an inch. Or you can get 3mm size from places like Summit Racing. Problem is that you always need to buy way more than you ever need. Cut both to an 85mm length.

If you bend or stretch out your hoses, were they cracked?

The 998 engine had some genetic issues. Vacuum hoses, spark plug wires, charcoal canister. So, even if replacing these hoses doesn’t solve your immediate issue, don’t be discouraged, because it needed to be done anyway at some point. You’re not wasting your time. Once you get them replaced, restart it and recheck codes to see if anything changes.

Edit: PS - getting back to those voltage related codes, have you checked the fuses in the left and right fuse boxes?

 

[scubadown]

The both vacuum hoses were hard. No cracks but fit loose on the MAP sensor. New hose came in today. Will install later today.

The voltage error code C1290 hasn't come up again. Every time I get the engine started (with the old hose) the P0107 does come back.

Does the code clear itself after the problem is fixed or is there a reset procedure?

Thanks again

 

[scubadown]

Just reinstalled using new silicon 3mm vacuum hose. Runs just the same. Won't start unless you keep above 3,500 rpms. Seems like after the check engine light comes back on it will idle, but roughly.

Bad sensor?

 

[Bfromla]

P0107: still low voltage manifold sensor; so may bad, damaged or loose connection (pins)** according to My Spyder 2 app:thumbup:

 

[scubadown]

Thanks, I think it is the sensor as all connections look good.

I found this one on Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/185530802692
And this one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Doo-New-Pressure-Sensor-270600040/dp/B06XSK3X2F (this is the one Can Am website identifies and the right one but I think it is a superseded part number).

My research seems to indicate either will work but the price difference and different part number worry me. Do you, by chance, know?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just reinstalled using new silicon 3mm vacuum hose. Runs just the same. Won't start unless you keep above 3,500 rpms. Seems like after the check engine light comes back on it will idle, but roughly.

Bad sensor?

Yeah. That’s exactly why we go back and recheck the codes. Since C1290 is gone now, and you’re left with just the sensor error, bad sensor looks like the logical next step. But unplug the harness connector and check for damage or corrosion first. Clean it all out. C1290 must have been the red herring. There’s no reset or initialization procedure needed for a new MAPS. Code should clear on its own.

However, as long as you have the machine all apart, you might consider changing out the plugs and wires with the stuff from BajaRon. You’ll just end up doing that anyway in the not too distant future. It’s mostly the wires being the issue. They’ve been on there 10 years.

I’m good at spending other people’s money.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Thanks, I think it is the sensor as all connections look good.

I found this one on Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/185530802692
And this one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Doo-New-Pressure-Sensor-270600040/dp/B06XSK3X2F (this is the one Can Am website identifies and the right one but I think it is a superseded part number).

My research seems to indicate either will work but the price difference and different part number worry me. Do you, by chance, know?

Yes, I do know. The latest and greatest part number from the BRP parts list is 270600040. $179.99 looks like the legit price. That’s why we’re checking everything first.

That one on eBay is a completely different sensor. That’s the AATPS. Don’t order that one.

 

[scubadown]

Plugs and wires sounds like a great idea!

I'll get the 270600040 sensor.

Mucho Gracias

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've had the P 0107 code ( on & off ) for ABOUT 3 MOS. now, my 1330 engine shows no signs of poor running, sometimes I get the big orange screen " Limp Home Mode ", but it runs fine ..... Actually it runs better than it did when the code wasn't there.... My fuel avg. is up 2 gals to 42 MPG ..... This is totally weird, but I'm Anal about how I check my MPG's ......good luck .... Mike :thumbup: