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ST-L heat problems and my concerns

How long will this go on?

You know, I've been a member here since 2008 and every year about this time we get this same issue. Every Year on every model. I just don't get it. Why should we be looking for answers to this problem for 5 years. I have Spyderpops heat shield on my RT, but why should I have to? Why should you have to wrap you pipes, remove bottom plates, etc. It's time for BRP to step up come up with a solution.
 
Well... my feeling is.. so many complained about the heat on their legs .. that BRP did something to fix it.... but the heat has to go some where.... Ya make 100 hp... ya make heat... so, ya need to get it out, and that means yer legs get hot.... or ya keep it in and ya boil the gas in yer tank....I'll take hot legs any day... I will wrap FB's pipes, and I have some heat shield I have bought and will insulate her gas tank and divert the heat from the tank Keep as much heat out of the engine bay as possible.... boiling the gas in the tank is not an option I can live with! Every motorcycle I have ever ridden.... and that's a BUNCH of them make HEAT....Girth up and deal with it! but ya really don't want your gas to boil in the tank...It's not safe... let alone the horsepower loss due to HOT fuel.
 
Well... my feeling is.. so many complained about the heat on their legs .. that BRP did something to fix it.... but the heat has to go some where.... Ya make 100 hp... ya make heat... so, ya need to get it out, and that means yer legs get hot.... or ya keep it in and ya boil the gas in yer tank....I'll take hot legs any day... I will wrap FB's pipes, and I have some heat shield I have bought and will insulate her gas tank and divert the heat from the tank Keep as much heat out of the engine bay as possible.... boiling the gas in the tank is not an option I can live with! Every motorcycle I have ever ridden.... and that's a BUNCH of them make HEAT....Girth up and deal with it! but ya really don't want your gas to boil in the tank...It's not safe... let alone the horsepower loss due to HOT fuel.

:agree: Unfortunately, I agree... the heat has to go *somewhere*. BRP heard people complain for years about hot right legs on the RS and the RT. Well, they seem to have solved that, only to open a new can of worms. :gaah: It's like whack-a-mole.

I've already resolved that whenever I buy another one, no matter the model, I'll have a reputable dealer wrap the pipes *before* I take delivery, just to get it out of the way during assembly. Can't hurt, no matter what.
 
:agree: Unfortunately, I agree... the heat has to go *somewhere*. BRP heard people complain for years about hot right legs on the RS and the RT. Well, they seem to have solved that, only to open a new can of worms. :gaah: It's like whack-a-mole.

I've already resolved that whenever I buy another one, no matter the model, I'll have a reputable dealer wrap the pipes *before* I take delivery, just to get it out of the way during assembly. Can't hurt, no matter what.
I can wrap the pipes, and insulate the tank..... and do it better than any dealer could.... but I shouldn't have to. If I have to re-engineer a bike to make it work, I have bought the wrong bike....Dumped an 02 Goldwing for the same reason.... overheating engine (to keep the heat off the driver) frame breaking issues....Yeah... like I need to worry about that going down the road... I will do what I can to make the bike road worthy.... but I will drop it like a hot potato if the issues continue.... just not worth it.. FB will have to learn to ride something else.
 
No matter what the temp outside, your engine should not overheat.

If it does, there's something wrong with the cooling system or possibly a fueling issue. This is definitely something the dealer should check out. You might have a fan problem or something gunking up your coolant.

When you got the high temp warning, what did your engine temp read?
The engine is not over heating, it is the transfer of heat under the Tupperware.... that is enough to boil the gas in the tank....that is the issue....
 
:agree: Unfortunately, I agree... the heat has to go *somewhere*. BRP heard people complain for years about hot right legs on the RS and the RT. Well, they seem to have solved that, only to open a new can of worms. :gaah: It's like whack-a-mole.

I've already resolved that whenever I buy another one, no matter the model, I'll have a reputable dealer wrap the pipes *before* I take delivery, just to get it out of the way during assembly. Can't hurt, no matter what.

If BRP has resolved the "hot right legs" issue, why do people keeping buying the block off plates. Why do they keep posting about it.:dontknow:
 
If BRP has resolved the "hot right legs" issue, why do people keeping buying the block off plates. Why do they keep posting about it.:dontknow:

Dick, I don't think the block off plates are available for the 2013s yet. I must say that I don't notice right side heat on mine but when there were strong crosswinds I did notice more heat on the down wind side.
 
I notice the same thing on my ST and I think the Corbin seat with the fuel door makes it worst, there's more places for the heat to escape. The ST is hotter than my RS for sure and now that it's getting hotter I'll be looking into how to fix that.

As far as the 2013's getting hot and throwing codes (PO217 mostly when stopped with the key off), is called heat soak. . The heat builds up when there's no circulation in the coolant and the temp continues to build. It will throw a code at 230 degrees and for now the only thing you can do is ride it and get the circulation going again. I don't know if there will be a ECM software calibration to fix this but as of right now there is none.
 
If BRP has resolved the "hot right legs" issue, why do people keeping buying the block off plates. Why do they keep posting about it.:dontknow:

Maybe I missed it, but when I rode my demo ST, I noticed that the the design by the feet was different, insofar as you no longer have the right-side fan blowing on your leg like you do on the RS (and I presume RT). There's instead wider plastic in front of your legs and feet on the footboards. Definitely a design change.

That said, unlike the RS, I noticed that I was getting *left* side heat through the panels on the ST, in a very short ride.

Again, heat's gotta go somewhere.
 
Gas boiling due to heat is very dangerous. I am very worried and all hands should be too. BRP must look on this
issue with the highest priority before somebody get hurt.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Gasoline boiling point is 100-400 degrees *F depending on atmospheric pressure. The only danger is vapor lock. On my Boss Hoss I had to add a fan to pull air from under the tank to keep the fuel from vapor lock. Boiling fuel on motorcycles is not as uncommon as you may think.

Gas boiling due to heat is very dangerous. I am very worried and all hands should be too. BRP must look on this
issue with the highest priority before somebody get hurt.
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
I'm sure there are many differences between the 2012s, and 2013s, but I've seen where others on earlier models have experienced fuel boil, and pressurized tank when removing the gas cap. I have yet to experience either of these.
I know when I had the panels off mine the last time, that there was some sort of insulation on the bottom of the tank. Is it possible that some spyders made it through with this not installed? :dontknow: Just a thought...
 
So besides an additional fan like Clueless mentioned, going fast or with a loose fairing, any other local remedies besides cooling down the tank when stopped?

I'm not sure a remedy is absolutely necessary, since the boiling fuel may be more of a worry and an inconvenience than a real danger, but there are some things that can reduce the possibility. Filling the tank more often, and not running it too low is one of these. Tou don't need to see a low fuel warning before you fuel up. Reducing heat inside a fairing or underneath the tank by wrapping or coating the exhaust, changing the tuning (not likely with a Spyder), rerouting the pipes, or venting that area are typical approaches. Insulating the tank can also help to some extent. Just like extraordinary measures that must be taken to operate vehicles in extreme cold, extreme heat can sometimes require the same kind of home remedies. JMHO
 
:agree: A great many of them do it...especially at low speed when the fuel is low, or with a tight fairing.

Scotty...I was traveling so 55+++++ to 75mph...fill-up about 3 or 4 bars left in tank....constant travel for 8+ hours...would happen about 2 fillup and then continue...Mark will fix it.....but very annoying when you spend this $$$$$
 
Scotty...I was traveling so 55+++++ to 75mph...fill-up about 3 or 4 bars left in tank....constant travel for 8+ hours...would happen about 2 fillup and then continue...Mark will fix it.....but very annoying when you spend this $$$$$

I do understand. I didn't say it wasn't annoying or worrying, just not as uncommon as some folks might think. What I hate the most about it is when the fuel boils instantly as you begin to fill, and the new fuel spits out all over the place. Been there, done that, didn't like it a bit. Operating a Spyder at ambient tempts above 100-105 is definitely a challenge. It would have been nice for them to have come up with an answer, rather than seemingly making things worse. I still think an explosion-proof bilge fan might be an answer...maybe thermostatically controlled. Too bad most of them are so darned big and bulky. In the end, if BRP resolves this, I expect the Spyder will need a bodywork redesign, to increase the air space and create more air flow/venting. Meanwhile, a lot of folks will be interested in Mark's solution(s). If anyone can improve the situation, he can. I can lend him some cuss words if it will help. ;)
 
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