Squealing noise when turning steering

[EdMat]

I'm puzzled by several items:

This is from the 2019 service manual. Maybe this will help.

 

[PMK]

PMK -- your explanation pulled the pieces together for me, including Joel the Biker's solution: new battery. Thanks!

The charging profile of the alternator is 850W @ 2910rpm and 1,250W@1720rpm. So while Marc was turning the handlebars while idling at 900rpm his alternator was close to maximum output and therefore maximum coupling load.

So I'll add a data point: shortly after I purchased the Spyder I replaced the Yuasa battery with a Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 (Joel the Biker also changed to lithium). And some months after I changed to Motul I added a second LFX36L3-BS12 (for S&G plus low price).

I'll continue my tendency of walking to the end of the plank:

1. When changing oils, especially type, be aware of the friction characteristics.
2. Spyder's are battery fussy so keep them fresh.
3. And tighten those star washers!

Sorry to disappoint.
1) I run Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil that is MA and MA2 rated.
2) I use a Battery Minder, not Battery Tender, whenever the Spyder is parked at home. 24/7/365 essentially.
3) I DO NOT run star washers on the battery terminal to wire harness terminals.

Add to this, almost never do I turn the bars without rolling the Spyder. This lessens wear on the DPS, and steering linkage, PLUS reduces required effort thereby lessening the load on the DPS motor and alternator. Even maintaining throttle control at a fast idle helps generate better electrical output, further lessening loads on the DPS and alternator.

I also found 20 psi in the front tires worked best for us, and that too lessen strain on the previously mentioned items.

What others do and use is absolutely fine by me, even if I may not agree with it.

 

[PMK]

This is from the 2019 service manual. Maybe this will help.

View attachment 194061

Exactly, setting breakaway torque on the alternator drive coupling.

I am not sure, but suspect that the coupling is designed to slip if the alternator were to fail and lock up. This would save the engine and accessory drive, allowing adequate time to shut the engine down. No true need to have it slip to limit anything at high alternator output.

 

[EdMat]

While the torque specs can't be set, the test tells if a replacement unit is required.

 

[BertRemington]

EdMat -- thanks for putting that page of the service manual in context. I had already read mine but without understanding the clutch reference I skipped on by it.

PMK -- I was making general observations, nothing specific to you. But thanks for providing your excellent guidance, especially move-while-turning and 20psi.

PS I use just the one battery-OEM-supplied washer between bolt head and lug.

 

[PMK]

While the torque specs can't be set, the test tells if a replacement unit is required.

Never had that assembly apart, but in looking at the manual info you provided, and the parts book, I would be pretty certain the nut tensions the disc springs, setting breakaway torque and running drag while slipping. I did not see any roll pin or other locking method to safety the nut. I may be all wrong, but that is how it appears to me.

 

[PMK]

EdMat -- thanks for putting that page of the service manual in context. I had already read mine but without understanding the clutch reference I skipped on by it.

PMK -- I was making general observations, nothing specific to you. But thanks for providing your excellent guidance, especially move-while-turning and 20psi.

PS I use just the one battery-OEM-supplied washer between bolt head and lug.

Never even thought it was directed specifically at me, just stating that not everyone follows along with everything posted here. Thats all.