Just installed one of 2 bumpskids on my RT. After I installed them I didn't like the looks and decided to remove it. What I didn't like was the gap between the skid and each wing on the sides. It looked to much like after market. Was wondering if anyone removed the nubs on the bottom of each wing so that the skid would mount flush. The skids may protect the underside but I'm not sold on the aftermarket looks.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
SpyderPops RT Bumpskid
- Thread starter R30SHIRE
- Start date
On yours is there a gap between the skid plate and the RT wings? Unless you remove the nubs on the underside of the wings the gap will be there. The nubs are on each side of the 4 plastic removable rivets.
spyderpoop
New member
pm sent
let me know what you think I was thinking on getting one also
let me know what you think I was thinking on getting one also
Some Guy
New member
I too like the look. I've had my 08 GS for 5 years, so my new RT is a different beast for me. One day after Harvey installed my RT bump skid, I hit a parking block. :gaah:
It took a hit that would have taken off some paint. nojoke
There was no damage to my Spyder or the bump skid. :thumbup:
condorflysu
New member
Just installed a Bumpskid this week. I have the slight gap caused by the plastic nubs but I don't find the looks a problem. The benefit over not having it is greater. Besides that very small gap is perfect place to install another Frakle
hyea:, LED running trim lights. You got to get down on your knees to really see that gap anyway. I had a problem with the idea of drilling the 2 optional holes into the frame for the back of the plastic plate. Thinking BRP warranty excuse issues and skipped that optional step for now until I can confirm. The back holes for the frame mounting didn't align well and would have been another logistics problem to deal with.
Last edited:
kinggeek
New member
AeroPilot
Member
Did the right side machine screw engage the metal clip?
I had one or two bolts that did not match up when first attaching and also noted that the skid needed to be flexed up to start engaging the clip. I did also see the little plastic fins and being somethat overzealous, got my belt sander out and ground them down just a little to make them a little more flush with the plastic. I did scuff the finish a couple of places, so I am not sure it was worth it, but it was out of sight.
I did keep the stove bolts loosely attached until I got them all started, to allow a little wiggle room of the plate, as suggested before finally cinching them all up together with the 4 mm allen bit checked in my Black and Decker cordless drill on a #4 clutch setting.
I had one or two bolts that did not match up when first attaching and also noted that the skid needed to be flexed up to start engaging the clip. I did also see the little plastic fins and being somethat overzealous, got my belt sander out and ground them down just a little to make them a little more flush with the plastic. I did scuff the finish a couple of places, so I am not sure it was worth it, but it was out of sight.
I did keep the stove bolts loosely attached until I got them all started, to allow a little wiggle room of the plate, as suggested before finally cinching them all up together with the 4 mm allen bit checked in my Black and Decker cordless drill on a #4 clutch setting.
Great Idea. I was thinking about grinding down the nubs so that the skid-plate would lay flat against the wings.
That is an option, I think I could counter sink the skid plate so the nubs will lay down into the plate. I'll check the thickness on both the nubs and the skid.
Bumpskid gap.
After installing the Bumpskid, I too didn't like the gap. So I removed it and removed the nubs with a wood chisel. Reinstalled and it looks great. Also I think it improves the handling by smoothing the air flow underneath. I am very pleased with it. Have saved many scrapes from happening.
After installing the Bumpskid, I too didn't like the gap. So I removed it and removed the nubs with a wood chisel. Reinstalled and it looks great. Also I think it improves the handling by smoothing the air flow underneath. I am very pleased with it. Have saved many scrapes from happening.
Utah Geezer
New member
Love it
First thing I bought for my RT was the bumpskid. Saved me plenty a times. Looks ok to me for what it does.
First thing I bought for my RT was the bumpskid. Saved me plenty a times. Looks ok to me for what it does.
Finished installing the skid. Ended up grinding down the nubs and now it fits like a glove. If you do this, tape off the area around the nubs with duct tape. That will save you from damaging the finish on the bottom of the wings. I installed one on my wife's Red RT and the black blends great. I also installed one on my Lava Bronze RT but I painted it with a chrome finish paint. That really turned out sweet.
Last edited:
can-am sam
New member
Installed the Bumpskid on my 2013 RT Limited. It took a little over one hour to install. Had a friend give a hand, it made the install much easier. Also on the wings I ground down a ridge that did not allow the bumpskid to be flush on the wings. Looks great! Lookout critters!
