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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Spyder sat too long - now it sounds/runs bad! Any ideas?
- Thread starter Pictreed
- Start date
BertRemington
New member
That's too bad about spark plugs. Yes the silicone lubricant is the usual stuff you buy for brake pad replacement, etc etc. For the thermal paste contact Baja Ron about buying a packet.
A 1330cc engine oil and filter change is not like other engines. So do some research first. And if you wife is buying parts from a local store than means you aren't replacing the HCM filter. Buy one from Baja Ron when you buy the thermal paste. The 1330cc paddle-shift transmission needs clean oil because it has close-tolerance solenoid valves like an automatic transmission except it shares oil with the engine and clutch plates.
Before ordering any sensors please conduct some of the tests we have proposed.
Replace the battery now. FLA if you must but AGM or LFX are better.
Otherwise you will fuss with the battery for six weeks and then replace the battery.
A 1330cc engine oil and filter change is not like other engines. So do some research first. And if you wife is buying parts from a local store than means you aren't replacing the HCM filter. Buy one from Baja Ron when you buy the thermal paste. The 1330cc paddle-shift transmission needs clean oil because it has close-tolerance solenoid valves like an automatic transmission except it shares oil with the engine and clutch plates.
Before ordering any sensors please conduct some of the tests we have proposed.
Replace the battery now. FLA if you must but AGM or LFX are better.
Otherwise you will fuss with the battery for six weeks and then replace the battery.
Attachments
That's PLENTY old enough to be causing problems if it's cranking even just a little bit weak.... if it's not already completely knackered only just hasn't quite dumped you fully into it yet! :gaah:
Besides, it'll probably be more than 'just a bit' weak if it's spent months sitting around with a few 'less than 30+ minute runs on the road/Hwy' thrown in - those short idles/engine only runs are pretty much the WORST things you can ever do to any battery, and especially so to a Spyder battery!! :yikes:
Bert's given you the good oil on the battery... Just Do It!
hyea:At the very worst, you'll be saving time & money on needing to replace it at the worst possible &/or most inconvenient time later on! :thumbup:
K80Shooter
New member
Another question, (I might have missed it but) since you did not buy the oil, what brand & weight? Maybe a picture of the bottle also.
You do know that just any oil will not work, right?
You do know that just any oil will not work, right?
K80Shooter
New member
The oil is fine.
I can't help on the plugs as I have not changed mine yet.
I can't help on the plugs as I have not changed mine yet.
BertRemington
New member
Call Baja Ron
I repeat: CALL BAJA RON:banghead:
I'd suggest buying a service manual but not sure you'd read it. Maybe your shade tree mechanics would, at least during sunlight hours. Anyway the thermal paste p/n and application are described on page 8 of Subsection 08 (Ignition System).
Oil is correct. I think the large filter is correct. The small filter is basura as are the O-rings. You need a Baja Ron rescue kit.
Let me see if I understand this: your local shop is located under a large spreading elm tree with fresh air venilation and evolution-friendly solar lighting.
I repeat: CALL BAJA RON:banghead:
I'd suggest buying a service manual but not sure you'd read it. Maybe your shade tree mechanics would, at least during sunlight hours. Anyway the thermal paste p/n and application are described on page 8 of Subsection 08 (Ignition System).
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Engine roughness - loosing power... The results!
This is the results thread from my other thread about letting my Spyder sit too long and what I thought created engine problems. After the discussion about bad fuel and such not causing problems I replaced spark plugs, checked coils and all was good.
Then someone suggested making sure all connections were tight which is where I found the problem.
The pin on the bottom left was not making contact.
A quick ride last night confirmed it was fixed.
Now replacing tires, belt, and oil. Then take it to the dealer for the brake bleed.
This is the results thread from my other thread about letting my Spyder sit too long and what I thought created engine problems. After the discussion about bad fuel and such not causing problems I replaced spark plugs, checked coils and all was good.
Then someone suggested making sure all connections were tight which is where I found the problem.
The pin on the bottom left was not making contact.
A quick ride last night confirmed it was fixed.
Now replacing tires, belt, and oil. Then take it to the dealer for the brake bleed.
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BertRemington
New member
Congratulations on finding and fixing the problem.
I took a quick look for that 14-position connector and the only thing I could find was under the seat. Basically its for the radio etc entertainment electronics mounted in the seat area. There are two white wires -- those are CANBUS. Is that the connector you pictured?
I took a quick look for that 14-position connector and the only thing I could find was under the seat. Basically its for the radio etc entertainment electronics mounted in the seat area. There are two white wires -- those are CANBUS. Is that the connector you pictured?
I was afraid that might be the case and I didn’t just temporarily fix it. I’ll look at it and see. It’s on the front left if that helps.
I did unplug most of the connectors I could find and put dielectric compound on them so maybe I fixed the problem that way
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I did unplug most of the connectors I could find and put dielectric compound on them so maybe I fixed the problem that way
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Everything was running great when it was apart but after changing the oil and reassembly now I'm getting the P1172 code. It's intermittent flashes on the bottom screen so I'm hoping a vacuum line is loose but my wife was reading where people have been replacing them since they're not clamped.
Advice welcome...
Thanks.
Advice welcome...
Thanks.
BertRemington
New member
As I recall you already have fuel injection cleaner, etc in the gas tank. If you don't smell gasoline and you don't see any signs of gasoline leaks (double check the fuel filter and gas tank top areas) then ride it for a hundred miles or so keeping the RPM above 3,500. I'm not concerned about canister purge valve. My concern is fuel pump and pressure regulator aren't functioning properly so riding it will give the additives a chance to work their magic.
BertRemington
New member
My experience is the exhaust smells rich until the ECM goes closed-loop. Give your Spyder some time and miles to reset ECM and TCM short- and long-term trims. I'm not concerned about the MAPTS and throttle body and the fuel injectors should clean themselves with cleaner and good gasoline. It's the gummy residue in the fuel pump and pressure regulator that concern me. Hopefully you have good luck.
It was scheduled at the shop for brake bleed and rear tire. They said the codes were coming from the fact that the fuel lines were falling apart. Not sure how but codes are gone and they replaced all the fuel lines with a newer grade to match the small piece i did. It runs great now but I need to balance the front tires. I think it lost all the wheel weights.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Sorry Pictreed. I lost track of this thread. If you purchased our ignition wire kit we will take it back. If the customer calls us, we always ask what bike they have. But if they order it on line, we just ship it out without question. All of our listings describe the kit as only applicable to the V-Twin Spyder models.
I wish I had come back to this thread earlier. It sounds like you may have clogged fuel injectors. We find this fairly often in 1330's which have sat, especially with ethanol fuel. Digging as deeply as you did, a sonic cleaning is a very good idea.
I wish I had come back to this thread earlier. It sounds like you may have clogged fuel injectors. We find this fairly often in 1330's which have sat, especially with ethanol fuel. Digging as deeply as you did, a sonic cleaning is a very good idea.
Thank you but I ordered the kit from Spyder Boyz and they refunded it after I shipped it back. I've heard good things about your products and I'm looking forward to using more of them as we get into this more.
The Spyder runs good now. The only thing I'm looking at now is maybe the sway bars since it likes to hunt a bit in the front end. Not sure what the sway bars will cure but I hear they help...with something LOL.
The magic mirrors from La Monster are great even though one of the mounts was machined wrong and after a couple emails and a couple phone calls I still haven't heard anything so I had to fix it myself.
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bikerbillone
Well-known member
A dash of Techron and and a fuel top off worked for me on previous motorcycles to smooth out the rough spots, never tried it on the Spyder though.
