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Spyder RT Steering
- Thread starter spence
- Start date
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
A non-functional DPS will often not leave fault codes. A nuimber of owners have learned their Spyders had no power steering, although no fault codes were ever thrown. It sounds like a bad DPS, low/bad battery (or bad connection), or a wiring problem, although it could be a sensor issue. What year RT? The 2010s were subject to a steering recall and DPS replacement. If yours is a 2010, make sure that was done. Beyond that, have your dealer contact BRP dealer tech support for assistance troubleshooting and correcting the problem.
Thank you so much
Thank you so much, i will relay this to my tech and hopefully this will work, because that is one thing i did notice is that it was getting harder to start like the battery was dying. its a 2011 Spyder RT
Thank you so much, i will relay this to my tech and hopefully this will work, because that is one thing i did notice is that it was getting harder to start like the battery was dying. its a 2011 Spyder RT
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The DPS is the largest single use of electrical power on the Spyder other than the starter. The battery should be tested and load tested. Your battery connections should also be checked for cleanliness and tightness, and both the front and rear frame grounds checked for tightness. The battery should also be checked for the ability to take and hold a charge, and it should be load tested. A bad DPS, that pulls too much amperage, can appear like a battery problem, so problems with the electrical system should be eliminated first, then the DPS evaluated.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Keep us posted and let us know what happens. I have a new 2011 RT in the stable with 5K miles--so far so good--:2thumbs:
gnirtsnod
New member
Well, there are some things that are just just fine because you don't know any better. That's the way I've been with my steering until reading this post. Steering my new RT requires a lot of push and pull on the handlebars. As a matter of fact, my biceps are aching as I write this response after my wife and I went out on the RT this afternoon.
Just how is the steering supposed to feel? Someone please try to describe the steering as the way it's supposed to be. ...Gnirtsnod
Just how is the steering supposed to feel? Someone please try to describe the steering as the way it's supposed to be. ...Gnirtsnod
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Best thing you can do is ride a dealer demo or a friend's Spyder and compare. Oh...check your front tire pressures. Too low (or even the BRP spec) can make the Spyder harder to steer. This isn't an effortless steering system, though, yours may be normal. Be aware that power input drops off as speed increases. At highway speeds there is no power assist. That's why it is called dynamic power steering...it changes under different conditions.
Bob Denman
New member
Since the DPS is such a voltage vampire; do you think that a weak or dying battery might make itself known with steering issues before anything else? :dontknow:
Bob Ledford
New member
Define DPS Steering
As a Can Am new rider, less then 3,000 miles of seat time, I think I would do it this way. Sitting still it takes a lot of arm pressure to turn the wheels from lock to lock. Under way to make a u turn it would not take a quarter of the effort expended while sitting still. At highway speeds it takes it takes so little effort that you have to retrain yourself to relax and not death grip the bars.
I find myself tight gripping the bars from time to time and my first indicator at highway speeds is it wanting to weave around or darting around. I have to tell myself to be cool and it straightens right up and flies straight and true.
you could equate the effort to your car as sitting still to trying to turn the steering wheel to a non non engine on event and the rest to driving in congested traffic up driving at seventy MPH or greater in a drive by wire ps equipped car of today in comparison to one with hydraulic operated system..
I tried various tire pressure settings and find eighteen psig to be the best for my RTL and my driving style.
As a Can Am new rider, less then 3,000 miles of seat time, I think I would do it this way. Sitting still it takes a lot of arm pressure to turn the wheels from lock to lock. Under way to make a u turn it would not take a quarter of the effort expended while sitting still. At highway speeds it takes it takes so little effort that you have to retrain yourself to relax and not death grip the bars.
I find myself tight gripping the bars from time to time and my first indicator at highway speeds is it wanting to weave around or darting around. I have to tell myself to be cool and it straightens right up and flies straight and true.
you could equate the effort to your car as sitting still to trying to turn the steering wheel to a non non engine on event and the rest to driving in congested traffic up driving at seventy MPH or greater in a drive by wire ps equipped car of today in comparison to one with hydraulic operated system..
I tried various tire pressure settings and find eighteen psig to be the best for my RTL and my driving style.
Chupaca
New member
Cruzr Joe
New member
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