Riverwatcher1
New member
2011 Spyder RT cut off while going down highway. Anyone have an idea what the problem is or how to fix it. The dealership says they don't know.
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Spyder RT cuts off while traveling and at stop lights .
- Thread starter Riverwatcher1
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
When it does this; do you see any red blinking lights in the tachometer display?
Did you try to pull up any active error codes?
Did you try to pull up any active error codes?
Chupaca
New member
Let's see..!!
could be electrical or fuel. Like Roger said check the fuel filter. Check all ground and positive connections. Don't know the mileage or fuel used. Some additives could also help. We assume it starts back up and runs fine till the next time. Could be bad gas as well. Does it happen after a bump in the road.. Things to try, good luck and let us know for future reference...:thumbup:
could be electrical or fuel. Like Roger said check the fuel filter. Check all ground and positive connections. Don't know the mileage or fuel used. Some additives could also help. We assume it starts back up and runs fine till the next time. Could be bad gas as well. Does it happen after a bump in the road.. Things to try, good luck and let us know for future reference...:thumbup:
MidLifeCrisis
New member
Kill switch or a bad console is my thought as well. I'm pretty sure the dealer told me it made seething like a Bluetooth connection. It may be a line, but I had to gave both swapped to eliminate the surprise visits from the kill fairy!
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My good friend had the same issue with his 2011 RSS. The dealer couldn't figure it out either. It was worse in the heat. The dealer swapped a bunch of parts with no success.
All of his problems went away when he bypassed and ditched the canister, blocking off the purge valve.....:dontknow: Machine hasn't stalled once in well over a year of riding.
All of his problems went away when he bypassed and ditched the canister, blocking off the purge valve.....:dontknow: Machine hasn't stalled once in well over a year of riding.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Lots of possibilities. What you really need is a dealer who will do more than merely shrug his shouders. That's pretty lame! There are some things you can (and should) check yourself. Check the relays in the fusebox to see that they are seated properly. Check the battery connections inside the bodywork (not the jump start terminals under the seat) for cleanliness and tightness. Check the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat) for tightness. The front frame ground is a possibility, too, but it is hard for an owner to access readily. Beyond that it could be vacuum hoses, wiring connectors, bad kill switch, ignition problems, fuel filter, or a host of other things. Could even be Miss Nanny, depending on the conditions and how you were riding. If it is leaving no fault codes that the dealer can narrow things down with, it will come down to testing or replaceing all the possible culprits until the problem is found.
flaggerphil
New member
I have no idea what's causing it, but you may need to find another dealer.
stewartj239
New member
I have a 2013 RT-S with 1400 miles and it has done the same thing since day one. For me, it will stall when it is standing still - either at a stop sign / light, or at home in the driveway. It has even done it while in neutral, in the driveway when I wasn't even on it, so I know it has nothing to do with being in gear. For mine, it is really a skip, then a stall. Sometimes, when it skips, it doesn't stall, but the RPMs will rise quickly, then come back down. I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet because I don't want to lose it during the summer months and it is not a huge issue. I have the SM5, so all I have to do is pull in the clutch and hit the start button. It always fires right back up immediately, but the problem is annoying.
SpydherLuv
New member
I have a 2011 RT-S and had experienced stalling issues when I first got her - only during stops, never while traveling. It took the dealer a few tries, but they eventually got it fixed after the 3,000 mile service. They replaced the spark plugs and performed campaign# 2012-4 (Updated Throttle Body Actuator). So, I'm not sure if it was the plugs or the campaign, or doing both that fixed the issue, but since this time, I have not had any issues with the engine cutting out. I hope this helps and good luck to those of you with this issue. Make your dealer do their job and if they don't, find another dealer.
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