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Spyder dead even after replacing battery - ideas?
- Thread starter Jay13433
- Start date
BajaRon
Well-known member
It may help to know what you are riding. But in this case, maybe not so much. How was the battery you replaced? Was it completely shot? If you are sure the new battery is good and 100% charged (it isn't all that uncommon to get a new, 'Dead' battery. Especially if it's been sitting).
Loose connections or corrosion can also give you fits.
Loose connections or corrosion can also give you fits.
DGoebel
Well-known member
So help us out here, many would love to help, what year Spyder RT do you have? (Since you posted in the RT Shop talk forum).
1. Replaced battery with fully charged battery. You've done that.
2. Checked battery voltage in Spyder. Check at battery terminals, check at battery end of cables themselves.
3. Checked all fuses in fuse boxes.
4. Checked kill switch operation, switch in Ride position.
5. Ignition key to On position, no lights, no dash, no anything?
1. Replaced battery with fully charged battery. You've done that.
2. Checked battery voltage in Spyder. Check at battery terminals, check at battery end of cables themselves.
3. Checked all fuses in fuse boxes.
4. Checked kill switch operation, switch in Ride position.
5. Ignition key to On position, no lights, no dash, no anything?
Bfromla
Well-known member
* Additional Double checking: polarity correct? Nothing wiggled loose when installing?(tight space & short cables can be aggravating) key turning ok?(not too loose or hard in either direction)
BertRemington
New member
Jay13433 -- is the problem with your 2011 RT?
BertRemington
New member
Please execute the following steps and report the results to us:
1. Put your ignition key in your pocket.
2. Press on the brake pedal and observe the brake light.
3. Press on the horn button and listen for sound.
Did the brake light illuminate and the horn sound?
If they didn't you have a problem in your battery-to-fuse box circuit or one of the main power fuses is open.
If they did you have a problem further into the electrical system.
PS answer the question BR and I asked -- what year and model Spyder.
1. Put your ignition key in your pocket.
2. Press on the brake pedal and observe the brake light.
3. Press on the horn button and listen for sound.
Did the brake light illuminate and the horn sound?
If they didn't you have a problem in your battery-to-fuse box circuit or one of the main power fuses is open.
If they did you have a problem further into the electrical system.
PS answer the question BR and I asked -- what year and model Spyder.
Deanna777
Well-known member
What is spyder model do you have?
What year is your spyder?
So we can help you.
Deanna
BertRemington
New member
I said:
You said:
When you checked the fuses, did you check the J-series fuses?
Right now sounds like you either had a pre-existing failure before you replaced the battery or the installation of the battery was incorrect. My assessment of this situation is time to tow your Spyder to the dealer and open your wallet wide.
You said:
When you checked the fuses, did you check the J-series fuses?
Right now sounds like you either had a pre-existing failure before you replaced the battery or the installation of the battery was incorrect. My assessment of this situation is time to tow your Spyder to the dealer and open your wallet wide.
Hey Jay, is there any reason you're avoiding answering the repeated questions about what year & model your Spyder is?? :dontknow: . It's beginning to look a little odd....
So what year & model IS your Spyder?? It might not add all that much, but then again, someone may have a similar year/model that's had a similar problem and so could help you - but unless you tell us the year & model of your Spyder, we'll never know, will we?? :banghead: . And with every new post that avoids providing those simple answers, your posts will increasingly look more suspect?!? :lecturef_smilie:
Just Sayin' ...... With my Moderator Hat on!
BertRemington
New member
Here's the background https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...e!-Any-ideas&p=1638278&viewfull=1#post1638278
Mid-July
Two years earlier changed oil and installed RLS exhaust resulting in three P-codes https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...engine-light&p=1517242&viewfull=1#post1517242 No resolution posted.
And now the Brake Light and Horn Sounding tests failed. Possible causes:
1 -- a J-series fuse is open
2 -- the old battery's failure wasn't lights on but rather a slow short (wiring or electronics) which still exists and has discharged the new battery.
3 -- the new battery isn't properly installed.
I'm thinking #2 and those types of failures are hard to isolate.
Mid-July
Two years earlier changed oil and installed RLS exhaust resulting in three P-codes https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...engine-light&p=1517242&viewfull=1#post1517242 No resolution posted.
And now the Brake Light and Horn Sounding tests failed. Possible causes:
1 -- a J-series fuse is open
2 -- the old battery's failure wasn't lights on but rather a slow short (wiring or electronics) which still exists and has discharged the new battery.
3 -- the new battery isn't properly installed.
I'm thinking #2 and those types of failures are hard to isolate.
Thanks for that info Jay! :thumbup:
If BR's post doesn't get it sorted for you, I'm not sure if any of these following threads will help, but it might be worth quickly skimming/reading them - I think the last one is about an RS, but still may be helpful. There's a bunch more threads about 2011 RT's with dash or gauge problems, but these stood out in the quick search I did, so maybe.... :dontknow: . If you want/need a hand searching for more, drop me a PM.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...pyder-RT-blank-dash-amp-radio-not-working-too
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...nstrument-Cluster-Test-by-Swapping-is-it-safe
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98760-2011-Spyder-RT-won-t-start
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?95863-Wiring-Issue-in-2011-RT-S-Heads-up!
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77382-New-Instrument-Cluster
Good Luck! :cheers:
If BR's post doesn't get it sorted for you, I'm not sure if any of these following threads will help, but it might be worth quickly skimming/reading them - I think the last one is about an RS, but still may be helpful. There's a bunch more threads about 2011 RT's with dash or gauge problems, but these stood out in the quick search I did, so maybe.... :dontknow: . If you want/need a hand searching for more, drop me a PM.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...pyder-RT-blank-dash-amp-radio-not-working-too
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...nstrument-Cluster-Test-by-Swapping-is-it-safe
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98760-2011-Spyder-RT-won-t-start
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?95863-Wiring-Issue-in-2011-RT-S-Heads-up!
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77382-New-Instrument-Cluster
Good Luck! :cheers:
Wmoater
Active member
I don’t know about the 11 but the 14-19 look in the fuse box. Right side bottom left looking at it is a huge square relay. That relay kills everything. My mechanic showed me a couple years ago when I had a locked up computer. Pull that relay and let bike sit for a few minutes. Turn on and it’s completely dead. Turn off, plug in relay and the system reset. It’s the largest one there. I think it’s a 40 or something like that. It’s also was the first thing he did in resetting my parking brake vbs failure. If you have 5hat check that relay. If it’s dead then bike is dead.
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