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Spyder Accessories - is the trailer harness plug&play?

H

Hoginedgewood

Member
So I bought the trailer hitch with plug&play harness. Video shows simple plug and play, all is well. But the plug I received has an extra orange wire tapped into the harness. Not going to turn the key on till I hear from Pierre.
Looks like the powered converter changed brands from what's in the video.
It's a 21 f3s
 
I have the same trailer harness on my '20 F3S. I called Pierre about the orange wire and it goes to +12V connection. I used the accessory connection under the passenger seat.
 
Thanks for the reply. I tried to call but my Walmart phone wouldn't allow international calls.
So im wondering why I would want to send 12 volts into the bikes harness when it didn't have 12 volts on that wire before.
I'm going to snip the black and only send 12 volts into the converter and see what that does first.
 
The little box pulls signal voltage from the bikes lighting system. It then uses the 12 volt power lead as a supply voltage to the trailer lights, etc. that it has to run. That way the CAN BUS system does not see any changes and remains happy.
 
EdMat Yes I get that. But what I didn't communicate to you properly is, it's sold as a plug and play but needs spliced. To send 12 volts into a wire that didn't previously have 12 volts may disrupt the canbus system you speak of.
 
Last edited:
Plug-and-Play is the buyer's fantasy

It ain't clear why expectations aren't matching actuality. The Tekonshar ModuLite® HD Protector Trailer Light Power Module p/n 119147 webpage https://www.tekonsha.com/Product/119147_trailer-light-power-module#product-specification-content clearly shows four wire taps in the parts list.
119147.png
Additionally the informative website provides a tab listing the eight tools needed including wire crimpers and wire cutters. Plug-and-Play doesn't appear in the product description and appears to be a fantasy of the buyer. I suggest a restart based on the actuality of the product accompanied by the appropriate Spyder service manual with a wiring diagram.
 
Trailer wiring color codes

Trailer-side wiring takes its color codes from residential wiring where White is Neutral (Ground) and Black is Line (Hot).

The color codes on both sides of the 119147 are nicely matched:

[table="width: 300"]
[tr]
[td]Color[/td]
[td]4-Pin[/td]
[td]Spyder[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]White[/td]
[td]Ground[/td]
[td]Ground[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Yellow[/td]
[td]LT/Brake[/td]
[td]LT[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Green[/td]
[td]RT/Brake[/td]
[td]RT[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brown[/td]
[td]Tail[/td]
[td]Tail[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Red[/td]
[td]n/a[/td]
[td]Brake[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Black[/td]
[td]n/a[/td]
[td]RFB F4 10A*[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

* Trailer power, at least on a 2014 RT-S.

I believe the Orange wire is just an artifact of the splice; the color has no meaning.
 
A test, some explanation and a question

Here's a quick test: the White (Ground) wires should be an 119147 pass-through. Therefore an ohmmeter should show continuity between the 4-Pin and Spyder White wires. If it doesn't, then my wiring codes table is wrong.

The 119147 uses the Spyder LT, RT, Brake and Tail circuits as Signals to control the RFB F4 power to the 4-Pin trailer connector. Imagine three ISO relays with pins 85 connected to White (Ground) and pins 30 to Black (Hot). The Spyder LT, RT and Tail are separately connected to pins 86 and the matching 4-Pin LT/Brake, RT/Brake and Tail are separately connected to pins 87. The Spyder Brake is connected, via two diodes, to pins 86 of the LT and RT relays.

By only using the Spyder LT, RT, Brake and Tail circuits as Signals, these imaginary relays (realized electronically in the 119147) ensure any shorts or other issues in the trailer-side wiring do not damage the expensive Spyder electronics or introduce current loads that trigger hyper-flashing, etc.

What trailer are you using?
 
Last edited:
Thanks to CASA link I understand your Plug&Play expectation

Hoginedgewood -- I went to the CASA link you provided (thanks) and now understand your disappointment. The Spyder-side harness is definitely offered as Plug-and-Play. And the pictures in the CASA description show a P&P design without any unterminated Orange wires. And there is no parts list showing the wire tap needed for a non-P&P design.

In my 2014 RT-S Owner Manual "How to Replace Fuses and Lights" F4 in the RFB is identified as Trailer Module. Do you have such a fuse position?

If not, then a P&P solution isn't possible for your F3 and you will have to tap into DC plugs power. It's a bit complicated. Trailer Module power is Always-On to comply with the vehicle rule that mandates the trailer brake lights are activated whenever the Spyder brake pedal is pushed. If you wish to comply with this rule, then the DC plug VBAT fuse position must be used. If not, then the DC plug VKEY fuse position may be used.

If there is such a fuse position, then is the Black wire from the 119147 connected to the P&P connector, specifically the plug that mates to the Spyder's socket?

If it is, then insert a 10amp fuse the Trailer Module position and, without turning on the ignition, press the brake pedal. You should observe 12V on the 4-Pin Green and Yellow wires. And the Orange wire is an extraneous artifact intended for some other purpose.

If it isn't, you're back to tapping the Black+Orange wire into the DC plug circuit.
 
Thanks Bert. I ended up cutting the black straight out of the module, so what ever wire was tapped into was left factory except for the additional couple inches of wire. I took the black from the converter to the customer accessory wire under the passenger seat. All is well, except the brake lights on the trailer won't work with the key off. Im ok with that.
Thanks for the help. I'll try to find a picture of the trailer. It's the common diamond plate motorcycle trailer.
 
8EC3AD93-0ECC-4DC5-9DE2-5808B4C0B391.jpg
Here's what I have. But I also have a Kwik Kamp. Prolly 15 years old. I don't like pulling the popup with the 2 wheel road king, but the wife wants to pull it with her Spyder.
 
BertRemington said:
Hoginedgewood -- I went to the CASA link you provided (thanks) and now understand your disappointment. The Spyder-side harness is definitely offered as Plug-and-Play. And the pictures in the CASA description show a P&P design without any unterminated Orange wires. And there is no parts list showing the wire tap needed for a non-P&P design.

In my 2014 RT-S Owner Manual "How to Replace Fuses and Lights" F4 in the RFB is identified as Trailer Module. Do you have such a fuse position?

If not, then a P&P solution isn't possible for your F3 and you will have to tap into DC plugs power. It's a bit complicated. Trailer Module power is Always-On to comply with the vehicle rule that mandates the trailer brake lights are activated whenever the Spyder brake pedal is pushed. If you wish to comply with this rule, then the DC plug VBAT fuse position must be used. If not, then the DC plug VKEY fuse position may be used.

If there is such a fuse position, then is the Black wire from the 119147 connected to the P&P connector, specifically the plug that mates to the Spyder's socket?

If it is, then insert a 10amp fuse the Trailer Module position and, without turning on the ignition, press the brake pedal. You should observe 12V on the 4-Pin Green and Yellow wires. And the Orange wire is an extraneous artifact intended for some other purpose.

If it isn't, you're back to tapping the Black+Orange wire into the DC plug circuit.
Click to expand...
RFB, not sure what that is. But i do see a fuse marked for trailer. Maybe that's the customer accessory wire under the passenger seat?
 
Post a picture of your OM fuse box

As you can see from my 2014 RT-S OM, the Trailer Module fuse is separate from the DC Plug fuse. By inserting the 5amp fuse into either the F6 or F7 position (but never ever both) the DC Plug is Key-On or Always-On power.
2014 RT-S OM pg 150.jpg
Hog -- since you said your trailer lights don't work with key off, that means you tapped into Key-On accessory power. Post a picture of your F3 manual so we can determine if you have a Trailer Module fuse position. If you don't this explains why your harness wasn't P&P ... because it couldn't be.
 
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