Spyder 0 to 60 times

[mxz600]

4.76 for my 2012 RS. I used attached 1/8 time & 1/8 mph to figure my 0-60. My time slip did not provide 0-60.

:bowdown:

I made an error on my post you replied to. I meant to say I'm at about a 6 sec. 0-60 not 5, I will go back and edit it. You'da man with 4.76. Do you have auto or manual?

I doubt many can turn a sub 5 sec with the manual.

And just maybe my Spyder gets down the road quicker than I think it does.

 

[figmotoday]

:bowdown:

I made an error on my post you replied to. I meant to say I'm at about a 6 sec. 0-60 not 5, I will go back and edit it. You'da man with 4.76. Do you have auto or manual?

I doubt many can turn a sub 5 sec with the manual.

And just maybe my Spyder gets down the road quicker than I think it does.

Hi mxz600,
Thanx much for the compliment. Auto with spyder 1 attitude muffler, JT air filter, BajaRon performance plugs & wires, I built a cold air intake that has 2 tubes leading from front fog light openings to JT air filter. Yip, auto makes it an ease compared to manual, most @ my track are running automatic. I reduce tire pressure & leave very little fuel in tank. I turn about 3000rpm with brake on while sitting at start. I try to leave on 3rd yellow light and smoothly & quickly turn the throttle for first 60 feet & shift @ just below red line. Most slippage is first 60 feet. My goal now is to beat my 13.86 1/4.

 

[Peter Aawen]

How low do you go with your tyre pressures?? I would've thought dropping the back just a little for the increased traction could help, but keeping the fronts (which are not driven wheels) at normal pressures or maybe even going a tad higher to minimise their rolling resistance would've been better?!? :sour: But going too low in the rear could take it past the best traction level & start costing you time thru excess tyre flex & possibly even spinning the rim inside the rubber.... Or are you running bead locks? :shocked: .... So I know it's a bit of a judgement call re pressures back there, & maybe a little trial & error to work out what pressure's best, but I'd be interested to hear what's working for you?

There again, I haven't done much in the way of drag racing for about 40 years now, so my thoughts & recollections might be a little out of date!!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

PSI

How low do you go with your tyre pressures?? I would've thought dropping the back just a little for the increased traction could help, but keeping the fronts (which are not driven wheels) at normal pressures or maybe even going a tad higher to minimise their rolling resistance would've been better?!? :sour: But going too low in the rear could take it past the best traction level & start costing you time thru excess tyre flex & possibly even spinning the rim inside the rubber.... Or are you running bead locks? :shocked: .... So I know it's a bit of a judgement call re pressures back there, & maybe a little trial & error to work out what pressure's best, but I'd be interested to hear what's working for you?

There again, I haven't done much in the way of drag racing for about 40 years now, so my thoughts & recollections might be a little out of date!!

WHAT'S PERFECT ????? who knows ........I have had my RT down to 14 PSI and not spun the tire in the rim .....I marked it so I know........PS ..the tire was a Michelin Hydro-edge which has a UTOQ of 800..................Good luck.....Mike :thumbup:

 

[figmotoday]

How low do you go with your tyre pressures?? I would've thought dropping the back just a little for the increased traction could help, but keeping the fronts (which are not driven wheels) at normal pressures or maybe even going a tad higher to minimise their rolling resistance would've been better?!? :sour: But going too low in the rear could take it past the best traction level & start costing you time thru excess tyre flex & possibly even spinning the rim inside the rubber.... Or are you running bead locks? :shocked: .... So I know it's a bit of a judgement call re pressures back there, & maybe a little trial & error to work out what pressure's best, but I'd be interested to hear what's working for you?

There again, I haven't done much in the way of drag racing for about 40 years now, so my thoughts & recollections might be a little out of date!!

Hi Peter Aawen,
Thanx for your comments & interest, giving me things to think about. Right now, I'm not running bead locks.........Most of the time I found 20psi in the rear to get the most grip with minimal spinning & 17psi in the fronts to help me keep it straight; however, I may increase 1-2 psi in the rear & decrease 1-2 psi in the front depending on track variables & current wear level of my tires. Part of the fun for me is making little adjustments as needed...............I think having the semi-automatic is the biggest advantage. When running down the track, my engine loves to run & shift right below red line. I've tried shifting @ lower rpms, starting @ 5000 and ending @ the red line & found the red line as the most effecient. Anyhows, above 5000, my engine moves so fast & smooth through rpms that I only have time to notice my red needle is @ 9 & time to hit the paddle.

 

[Rogue Hawk]

That number for the F3 came directly from Lamont. If you think it's wrong, shoot him a P.M.

Here it is, post number #8:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?79899-GS-vs-F3-question

The weight of the F3 is quite a bit more than the 2008 GS. Based on the BRP marketing book, I got when I purchased my 2008 (new), was the weight of the 2008GS was 630#, and the F3 is listed at 850#. I personally haven't ridden the F3; but, there have been plenty of posts where someone with an RS/RSS has test ridden one, and they say their RS/RSS is quicker (off the line).

I have an F3. It is a bit slow off the line, but it really starts accelerating in second and third.

 

[Rogue Hawk]

What's the secret to a fast start?

A good nutritious breakfast :thumbup: