Hi I've been reading about the sprocket spline issues on some of the F-3's. I have a 2017 F-3L with 2000 miles on it. Do you just pull the bolt out while the belt is on the pulley, or do you have to remove the belt first? Also I want to change the oil is it best to use the blend or go to full synthetic? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Sproket,Spline Question?
- Thread starter Bigdaddy
- Start date
JKMSPYDER
Active member
SPROCKET
Normally you can check the condition of the sprocket just by removing the cover. If you see something that looks like red dust or rust, get it to your dealer. At some point it will fail! As for the oil, the blend is OK but I prefer the full synthetic myself. I use Amsoil but there are many good brands of synthetic to choose from.
Normally you can check the condition of the sprocket just by removing the cover. If you see something that looks like red dust or rust, get it to your dealer. At some point it will fail! As for the oil, the blend is OK but I prefer the full synthetic myself. I use Amsoil but there are many good brands of synthetic to choose from.
JayBros
Well-known member
I do not have an F3, but from my readings on this subject DO NOT touch that bolt. Since your Spyder is under warranty, take it directly to your dealer if you have any questions about the front sprocket.
Regarding changing your oil, many of 1330 engine owners, myself included, have found that our shifting is smoother with full synthetic oil than with the BRP XPS blend. The Blend oil is up to the task or BRP would not recommend it. There is tons of information on oil available on this site if you search. Remember though, the only way you can tell how an oil is really performing is to have it analyzed.
Regarding changing your oil, many of 1330 engine owners, myself included, have found that our shifting is smoother with full synthetic oil than with the BRP XPS blend. The Blend oil is up to the task or BRP would not recommend it. There is tons of information on oil available on this site if you search. Remember though, the only way you can tell how an oil is really performing is to have it analyzed.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Agree, unless you are on a Corvette forum and the UOA reports do not tell the story they want to hear, then they find 'evidence' that UOA numbers are meaningless and Exxon knows everything regardless of what real world test results show. Sometimes these oil discussions are almost religous.
We use Shell Rotella T6 for full synthetic oil changes on 1330 Spyders at our shop. Fully rated, great UOA results, great running and smooth shifting.
007james
Member
I have been using Mobil One Full Synthetic Motor cycle Raciing Oil since the first 3000 mile Service. I run 10,000 miles between Oil and Filter changes. I have a 2016 RT Linited. As for the Sprocket, I recommend not touching it while under Waurentee, but you will need to find a reliable Dealer with a Certified Tech to diagnose a Sprocket problem and change it if needed.
SilverSurfer
RT-S PE#0391
2015 Spyder RT-S, 16,000 Miles
Front Sprocket/Spline failure ... Now we know it happens on RTs.
Symptom: You're accelerating from a stop or to pass and suddenly you hear "brzbrzbrzbrz" coming from the front bottom near your floor boards, no torque and you're stuck there with no ability to pull forward or back. There is all kinds of info out there about soft metal or plastic used in the pulleys and sprocket. This will be a subject of discussion at the shop this Friday, and I'll follow up.
Front Sprocket/Spline failure ... Now we know it happens on RTs.
Symptom: You're accelerating from a stop or to pass and suddenly you hear "brzbrzbrzbrz" coming from the front bottom near your floor boards, no torque and you're stuck there with no ability to pull forward or back. There is all kinds of info out there about soft metal or plastic used in the pulleys and sprocket. This will be a subject of discussion at the shop this Friday, and I'll follow up.
Flamewinger
New member
From what I understand there is red dust as, mentioned already, and if you see it the dealer have the best people to fix it.
I got corrected a few weeks ago about BRP oil. It's Full Synth these days. No longer a blend, at least for the SE6's.
I got corrected a few weeks ago about BRP oil. It's Full Synth these days. No longer a blend, at least for the SE6's.
red dust
If you see red dust, wear is happening in the sprocket splines, not the gearbox shaft. Dealer may or may not do anything. Do not remove bolt unless you have a new one, one time use. When I removed mine, under the washer looked fine, all edges intact But when removed, 1/16 in was the sharp wore off edges of the sprocket splines. 12k with red dust, but slight. Replaced, all good now. Tim
If you see red dust, wear is happening in the sprocket splines, not the gearbox shaft. Dealer may or may not do anything. Do not remove bolt unless you have a new one, one time use. When I removed mine, under the washer looked fine, all edges intact But when removed, 1/16 in was the sharp wore off edges of the sprocket splines. 12k with red dust, but slight. Replaced, all good now. Tim
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