Shaft drive is not the cure all some think it it is. I have been riding BMW's since the mid seventies. They require periodic spline lubes on transmission and rear drive or they will fail.
I have had shaft-driven motorcycles since 1979. The "periodic spline lubes" on all of my bikes have only taken an extra 5 minutes at every rear tire change. Just use the proper lube (Honda Moly60 or the new Moly77) and there is no problem with lube interval lasting as long as the tire.
Not sure about the Loctite product that will be used. Hopefully it will not be used to bond the shaft and sprocket. It has been proven over the last (almost) 50 years that a good lube (high moly content} works very well. No need to add any complexity.
Here’s a question. I watched the video and he said the inner spline is deeper than the original. We’re also adding a washer to the inside. So basically we’re pushing that sprocket out 1/8 to 3/16 from factory setting correct? Isn’t everyone rear wheel going to have to be realigned since the belt will now really be tracked against the inside of the new sprocket? It’s going to squeak and squeal like a pig after 1000 miles if not. Maybe he meant the outside of the inner spline but still it will be min of 1/8 out now. Correct?
I think it was adequately reported in subsequent posts, but the spline area of the sprocket was thinner. The additional washer/spacer merely brings it back to the original thickness. No re-alignment is necessary.
For those pushing for shaft drives, ... add me to the list. There are some that say they are heavy and power-robbing. True, but why did BRP bother to add a shaft to the Ryker 600? On top of that, we all know the 1330 engine is capable of so MUCH more power. It could easily be tuned so the rear wheel power would be the same. Weight would be the only remaining factor. To make it worse, it's "unsprung" weight. Might not be quite as crisply-responsive over road irregularities, but for a heavy touring machine, it's not that much of a problem.
My dealer called a couple of weeks ago to say they had a new sprocket to replace ours. This is the one that I posted a couple months ago where the inner flange had come off, and I had it welded back on. Will be interested to see what the "new" sprocket looks like. Bike is at the dealer now, it's on next week's schedule for work.
The whole stripping issue could be a matter of simple metalurgy. Suzuki introduced a shaft-driven bike in 1979, then expanded to a few different models in 1980. Some time during the 1982 production run, they changed the splines in the final drive. It was quickly found that they were softer and would wear a LOT quicker, if not properly lubed (and most weren't). In 1983, Suzuki came out with a new sprocket that is still produced for current models, 40 years later. Why would BRP have to re-invent the wheel (splines), why not use the same material that Suzuki does?
.