Speakers crackling

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The first dealer pulled off the speaker contacts and cleaned them, per BRP. The crackling came back almost immediately. I didn't have time to take my F3 back at the time. I did take it back in to a different dealer just last week and they looked into the problem. BRP told them to try a few other things and if that didn't work to order a new amp. I guess BRP knows there is a speaker crackling problem but it doesn't seem to be wide spread so it's more of case by case basis. My amp will be replaced under warranty and I'm waiting for a call from the dealer. Once they get the new amp in, I will take my Spyder back in. I would suggest keep complaining to your dealer about the issue until BRP authorizes an amp replacement.

I'm not an Expert in Audio, and this is my experience with " crackling ". It is not usually caused by an AMP …. it is generally speaker quality …. If you are listening or trying to listen to FM - crackling usually is caused by signal strength ….. if you are using a device like MP-3 or Ipod and you have " crackling " it's the speakers ….. For my 20114 RT I changed to 2 ohm JBL speakers increasing the rear ones to 5.25" ( from stock size ) and my sound is phenomenal for All criteria. My FM is also great because I switched to a " Bosche " retractable auto antennae - it is even tune-able by changing the height of the rod ….. good luck …. Mike hyea:

 

[Seattle]

Thanks for your reply! I genuinely hope replacement of the amp will resolve the issue for your F3 and look forward to what you share on that experience with me and us all.

I've shared your reply to my dealer service technician. BRP engineering has told my dealer no other Spyder owner has complained about this "crackling" issue other than myself. I've had four 2018 RT loaners and every single one of them I was able to replicate nearly the identical issue. I accidentally linked the video of the RT loaner rather than my own F3 Spyder's audio system glitches. I'm curious if you can confirm if this is similar to what you heard coming from your F3.

The first dealer pulled off the speaker contacts and cleaned them, per BRP. The crackling came back almost immediately. I didn't have time to take my F3 back at the time. I did take it back in to a different dealer just last week and they looked into the problem. BRP told them to try a few other things and if that didn't work to order a new amp. I guess BRP knows there is a speaker crackling problem but it doesn't seem to be wide spread so it's more of case by case basis. My amp will be replaced under warranty and I'm waiting for a call from the dealer. Once they get the new amp in, I will take my Spyder back in. I would suggest keep complaining to your dealer about the issue until BRP authorizes an amp replacement.

 

[Seattle]

I'm quite suspicious that an amp replacement would resolve the crackling issue both Skups and I are experiencing. However, BRP engineering has been focusing on resolving this issue with software updates. 18 months in, no software update has resolved the crackling issue for my '18 F3L.

The 2018 and newer Spyders have an entirely different audio/amp system setup from what I've discovered. The former Spyders have a stronger signal lock by comparison and louder volume output as well when the two different years of similar Spyders are side by side. I believe changing the speakers will only reveal more of the retched crackling noise rather than resolve it. This issue almost appears as if there's no protective sheathing in the harness that runs from the dash cluster to the amp/antenna. I made two separate videos of my F3L and an '18 RTL - both produce similar crackling with steering input, when the engine fan kicks on and whenever the volume is above 50% (which is necessary in order to hear it at low rolling speeds) which causing speaker popping at the bass points. BRP engineering believes they can fix this with software which I don't believe is possible, but I'd be happy to be utterly wrong in that assumption.

Edit to add: It's normal for radio listeners to hear some static from weaker signal strength, but nothing like what both videos show which are intrusively disturbing ruining the listening experience. I prefer listening to the radio rather than Bluetooth audio. I've not thoroughly tested the BT setup to see if it does the same thing, but I'm suspecting it probably doesn't.

I'm not an Expert in Audio, and this is my experience with " crackling ". It is not usually caused by an AMP …. it is generally speaker quality …. If you are listening or trying to listen to FM - crackling usually is caused by signal strength ….. if you are using a device like MP-3 or Ipod and you have " crackling " it's the speakers ….. For my 20114 RT I changed to 2 ohm JBL speakers increasing the rear ones to 5.25" ( from stock size ) and my sound is phenomenal for All criteria. My FM is also great because I switched to a " Bosche " retractable auto antennae - it is even tune-able by changing the height of the rod ….. good luck …. Mike hyea:

 

[DGoebel]

Seattle, I just listened to your video's and will share them with the aircraft engineers I work with. Several of them would likely agree that's it's a wire that should have been shielded or some "bleed" over of other signals swamping the audio signal in the harness or at a connector somewhere. The turning the bars static was horrible. Just to verify have you ever found out where the stations are broadcasting from (antenna's not studio) and tested the radio in a fantastic signal area.
I'd agree with you that speakers are not your solution, though better speakers on all factory spyders is some improvement sound quality and volume wise.

 

[Seattle]

Thanks for the reply, Dave. I genuinely hope your colleagues might have a better idea as to the culprit for the ongoing audio system challenges.

I have also suspected the lack of adequate shielding in the wiring harness is causing the interference whenever the steering is turned or engine fan engages. I do find it quite curious that the four different RTL loaners (all brand new) over the past 18 months, including the current new one I'm riding, all experienced identical crackling issues with the steering input and fan powering on, but not all suffered from the radio popping/static on the bass points like my F3L.

I wondered if radio tower signal strength might possibly play a roll in the crackling issues as you elude to. I rotated through several local Seattle radio stations (towers, not studio) to determine if the audio crackling issues would improve or worsen. Unfortunately, it made no difference.

For more information that may or may not be of help to share with your colleagues... I also wondered if ambient temperature might be affecting the issues but as you can see in both videos, the weather for the RTL footage was taken on a hotter day and the F3L on a cooler day thus had no effect. The only aftermarket accessories that my dealer installed at the time of purchase the were Custom Dynamics OEM foglights, LED headlight bulbs, Brightsides safety package #2. I've held off upgrading anything on my F3L for fear BRP will deny repairing the existing issue so everything on the machine is bone stock from factory. The fact the RTL loaners didn't have these LED upgrades and also produced the same issues leads me to believe it's highly unlikely that the LED upgrades the dealer performed has contributed to these issues.

Seattle, I just listened to your video's and will share them with the aircraft engineers I work with. Several of them would likely agree that's it's a wire that should have been shielded or some "bleed" over of other signals swamping the audio signal in the harness or at a connector somewhere. The turning the bars static was horrible. Just to verify have you ever found out where the stations are broadcasting from (antenna's not studio) and tested the radio in a fantastic signal area.
I'd agree with you that speakers are not your solution, though better speakers on all factory spyders is some improvement sound quality and volume wise.

 

[Skups]

I'm not an Expert in Audio, and this is my experience with " crackling ". It is not usually caused by an AMP …. it is generally speaker quality …. If you are listening or trying to listen to FM - crackling usually is caused by signal strength ….. if you are using a device like MP-3 or Ipod and you have " crackling " it's the speakers ….. For my 20114 RT I changed to 2 ohm JBL speakers increasing the rear ones to 5.25" ( from stock size ) and my sound is phenomenal for All criteria. My FM is also great because I switched to a " Bosche " retractable auto antennae - it is even tune-able by changing the height of the rod ….. good luck …. Mike hyea:

I would agree with you Blue Knight about the Amp NOT being the culprit, but I'm not an audio expert either. I think it could be the speakers or wire shielding. I know definitely it's not bad radio reception, I know the difference. Plus, no crackling at half volume, only when about 3/4 and above, on radio or bluetooth. It is more noticeable when the road is bumpy also. However, I don't experience and issues while turning the handle bars or fan coming on like Seattle experiences.

Seattle: As far as the dealer not hearing about any other complaints, I call BS on that. My dealer told me that BRP acknowledges there has been a problem and their answer is a new AMP, not sure if that will solve it but it's under warranty and I'll let them swap it out. As soon as I get that done, I will post with an update. Other than the radio issues, I absolutely love this machine! It's a blast to drive, especially after my new Baja Ron sway!

 

[DGoebel]

Seattle (and others),
The audio / electronics guys at work believe two different issues at play here re Seattle's issue (not Skups). Both stressed that improper or inadequate grounding is often a culprit of Intercom/Communications/Radio noise. Step one, Check grounds. Antenna, Radio, and Dash / switches. (This might be a dealer/service technician troubleshooting level work for many.)

I'll switch over to Seattle's other topic to finish relaying what they thought on his bike after listening to his YT videos.

 

[Seattle]

Thanks again Dave. I responded to your other reply in the new thread I created. I'll link it here should anyone else in the future come across our discussion threads. I have responded with some new technical details that others may find of interest as well. I'll include our entire discussion in quotes at the bottom of this comment for anyone who would prefer to read it within this thread.

Dealer service tech stated that all of the grounds, antenna, radio in and behind the dash looked secure. The 2019 F3L I took out to test earlier today however did not exhibit any of these audio issues.

Seattle (and others),
The audio / electronics guys at work believe two different issues at play here re Seattle's issue (not Skups). Both stressed that improper or inadequate grounding is often a culprit of Intercom/Communications/Radio noise. Step one, Check grounds. Antenna, Radio, and Dash / switches. (This might be a dealer/service technician troubleshooting level work for many.)

I'll switch over to Seattle's other topic to finish relaying what they thought on his bike after listening to his YT videos.

Dave, thank you for your very thoroughly helpful response.

Regarding the audio clipping (nail tapping in F3L video): whether the EQ is set to neutral or the bass and treble are maxed (as was in the case of both video examples) and auto volume is set to "High", the bass point clipping occurred on the F3L, but not two of the RTLs. These Spyders only have FM tuners, Bluetooth and Auxiliary options; no AM tuner. My Bluetooth setup hadn't function for the past 17 months prior to the recent software update completed. However, I've observed it's barely audible while riding. If I don't increase the volume on out MP3/USB player to 100% and the F3L's volume output to 90% I cannot hear it. So I cannot provide an answer if the bass clipping occurs with the BT device player, but my guess it's unlikely since I cannot get enough volume output to hear it while rolling.

Shielding: Here's what one electrical engineer shared with me today: One thing to consider is the shielding surrounding the battery. Power steering, amp, cooling fan… what powers each of these? Battery is a common denominator.

Have the dealer piggy back the radio via a 12V ATO ATC circuit fuse tap’s pig tails and use an outsourced battery to power on the radio. They’ll have to run a cable from the outsourced battery to the bike’s main battery - thus allowing the steering and fan to work independently and see if this changes anything.

This all comes back to shielding. Back in the olden days… Cars had to have filters installed, inline to one another, to take out the interference from the batteries. Which, you guessed it, caused a lot of static in the speakers.

Today I asked my dealer if I could take out their new 2019 F3L to conduct similar audio tests. None of the audio system issues ever occurred on this machine on an hour-and-a-half ride (30 miles) unlike with my personal F3L and the RTL loaners I had each for a couple weeks. I'm curious what's the difference between the two years electrically. The dealer technicians are under the impression that there is no differences other than a few small aesthetic changes. Unfortunately there wasn't any other 2019 model Spyders at the showroom for me to test to see if it's just the one machine that worked flawlessly.

I am drafting an email to send to BRP later this week which highlight the timeline of issues of concern since the purchase date. I'll mention to BRP how each of these instances were addressed including the technical suggestions you and others have shared with me to troubleshoot the audio system.

Thank you again for your time and input. I'm hoping there's some resolution in the near future that can be addressed so that BRP can issue a bulletin for all the affected 2018 Spyders.

Bringing this reply from Skups thread about crackling to create better continuity about Seattle's radio issue.
I replied over there
"Seattle, I just listened to your video's and will share them with the aircraft electronics engineers I work with. Several of them would likely agree that's it's a wire that should have been shielded or some "bleed" over of other signals swamping the audio signal in the harness or at a connector somewhere. The turning the bars static was horrible. Just to verify have you ever found out where the stations are broadcasting from (antenna's not studio) and tested the radio in a fantastic signal area.
I'd agree with you that speakers are not your solution, though better speakers on all factory spyders is some improvement sound quality and volume wise."

They listened to your videos and thought there were at least two different issues and suggested doing some troubleshooting steps to prove/evaluate each issue separately.

1st the nail tapping on glass during Bass beats issue. One Referred to it as audio clipping (as you did above), usually a signal overloading the next component, ie radio to amp, or amp to speaker. Asked if you had manually adjusted the Bass, Treble, or Mid-range response in the radio's settings. Failed/failing component or bad design is likely if your equalizer settings are at the neutral settings and you're getting that at other than max volume. IF your Bass is maxed out or significantly raised in the equalizer, does it happen if you reduce it back to neutral or just above neutral settings.
Wanted to confirm if that same issue happens when you're listening to other audio inputs. Means you'll have to try the AM and or MP3 /USB sourced sound inputs. At least to test if it happens in all inputs or only FM Radio.

2nd the Noise when turning the handlebars or when the Fan kicks in on two different models of Spyders. They were surprised that any vehicle could have that kind of signal noise and pass rudimentary inspection.
We make/repair/modify sport / light plane instrument panel and avionics packages and test all of their audio capabilities (in-aircraft intercom, ac to ground communications, bluetooth and satellite radio before sending a harness/panel/plane out. Both agree that's gotta be some wiring that should have been shielded and isn't or that was shielded but the shielding was not grounded. Short of a complete disassembly to verify all the proper grounds are actually grounding they both agreed it would be terrible to troubleshoot.
Sorry that doesn't help resolve it, but Keep taking it to the dealer and keep the dealer working with BRP.
I am surprised that more haven't complained about this if it's really affecting all bikes.

 

[Seattle]

I REALLY hope that the amp replacement solves the crackling for you, but I'm not confident it is if what you're experiencing is similar to what I have been dealing with these past 18 months. With that said, I'd be extremely thrilled with being 100% wrong if the amp does in fact resolve the issue. I eagerly look forward to what you report.

My dealer service lead technician has been speaking with BRP engineering and has passed along some of what you and others have shared. BRP has confirmed with him there are other customers who are experiencing the crackling within their audio systems. Please see my reply to DGoebel below for more details I've discovered today.

Like you, I absolutely LOVE this Spyder which has been a dream to ride! After happily riding a 2008 GS SM5 for a decade, I thought it be perfect to celebrate the new decade with the 10th Anniversary Edition model F3L so I could enjoy tunes. Aside from the audio system issues, I will continue to be the squeaky wheel until this matter is resolved as my warranty is also coming to an end in spring 2020.

As far as the dealer not hearing about any other complaints, I call BS on that. My dealer told me that BRP acknowledges there has been a problem and their answer is a new AMP, not sure if that will solve it but it's under warranty and I'll let them swap it out. As soon as I get that done, I will post with an update. Other than the radio issues, I absolutely love this machine! It's a blast to drive, especially after my new Baja Ron sway!

 

[Seattle]

Cross-posting what I shared in this other discussion thread.

I sent a detailed email to BRP Customer Care this afternoon which also includes the two videos I recorded of the audio system flaws in both my F3L and one of the RTL loaners I had use of. I asked engineering if there any electrical or mechanical build differences between the 2018 and 2019 model Spyder in order to effectively troubleshoot and resolve the aforementioned design or material flaws.

The 2019 model Spyder I test rode for over an hour putting on 30 miles didn't produce any crackling when the handlebar steering or engine fan engaged, nor any bass clipping issues while tuning to strong or weak FM stations even with the EQ bass and treble cranked at the highest setting. However, it still suffered from the weak volume output flaw especially more so with the Bluetooth music just like the 2018 model Spyders; it had latest software update (v.20.80).

Whether or not BRP will defer to the dealers is anyones guess. However, I am in agreement it's highly unlikely they authorize (or pay the dealer for the time) to do the labour to troubleshoot as I had shared in my previous comment. If they're willing to let the dealers replace each of the associated audio components to resolve this issue then that's a potential win towards resolution for those of us who are affected.

I hope that by writing directly to BRP Customer Care it will spur them to consider offering more assistance to the affected customers or if we're lucky issue a Bulletin to resolve it in all affected Spyders. Each of us has invested a lot for these motorcycles that brings us hours of enjoyment (aside from the wonky sound system flaws). "Inaction may be safe, but it builds nothing."

 

[Seattle]

I'm curious if the amp replacement has resolved your crackling issues with your F3L? BRP is refusing to authorise an amp replacement for my Spyder unless I'm willing to pay for it and the labour time even though my Spyder is still under warranty. Looking forward to hear if your Spyder's audio system is better or not.

I would agree with you Blue Knight about the Amp NOT being the culprit, but I'm not an audio expert either. I think it could be the speakers or wire shielding. I know definitely it's not bad radio reception, I know the difference. Plus, no crackling at half volume, only when about 3/4 and above, on radio or bluetooth. It is more noticeable when the road is bumpy also. However, I don't experience and issues while turning the handle bars or fan coming on like Seattle experiences.

Seattle: As far as the dealer not hearing about any other complaints, I call BS on that. My dealer told me that BRP acknowledges there has been a problem and their answer is a new AMP, not sure if that will solve it but it's under warranty and I'll let them swap it out. As soon as I get that done, I will post with an update. Other than the radio issues, I absolutely love this machine! It's a blast to drive, especially after my new Baja Ron sway!

 

[QuadRAGIN]

I have the same problem, I do car audio work sometimes, and run the worship team system at my church.. the issue is one of few things, the Amp is to underpowered for the speakers.. Highly unlikely, the speakers are of not enough RMS wattage to handle the Amp. the amp is being overdriven causing distortion like a guitar. I am not going to spend more money on correctly sized speakers. BRP needs to pay for their mistakes these machines cost to much for us to settle.
I going to take mine to the dealer in about a month to get new speakers and amp UNDER WARRENTY.
The system sound nice in the show room but turn it up for riding and its horable.
My Indian M/C system is way louder and cleaner.

 

[Seattle]

If you would, PLEASE update us all whether or not you were successful to obtain warranty coverage to replace your amp and speakers. BRP has vehemently denied warranty coverage for my 2018 Spyder F3-L indicating that very few Spyders are affected with this audio system flaw but it's part of the "normal design" - their words. Based on this discussion thread and another I've started there are more 2018 Spyders that are genuinely affected the audio system flaws, but because very few owners have reported this issue to their dealer, BRP believes it doesn't warrant any action on their part.

I have some reservations whether or not an amp or speaker replacement will resolve the crackling issues we are experiencing. The reason being is that these replacement parts will likely be identical to the existing which then will reproduce the same issues; but I would be incredibly happy to be so wrong about that assumption. The more Spyder owners address this with their dealers the more likely we can collectively pursue BRP to create a bulletin to rectify for a redesign of the amp/speaker flaws.

I have the same problem, I do car audio work sometimes, and run the worship team system at my church.. the issue is one of few things, the Amp is to underpowered for the speakers.. Highly unlikely, the speakers are of not enough RMS wattage to handle the Amp. the amp is being overdriven causing distortion like a guitar. I am not going to spend more money on correctly sized speakers. BRP needs to pay for their mistakes these machines cost to much for us to settle.
I going to take mine to the dealer in about a month to get new speakers and amp UNDER WARRENTY.
The system sound nice in the show room but turn it up for riding and its horable.
My Indian M/C system is way louder and cleaner.

 

[DGoebel]

Seattle, and others, I do think some distinction needs to be emphasized, the horrible sounds while turning the handlebars (Seattle's vids) is NOT in anyway normal or whatever BRP is stating. It's possible that the full and complete problem is not being correctly communicated to the BRP folks receiving and denying the complaint.
I agree with what QuadRAGIN is saying about normal speaker problems (and feel that it's poor speakers in many cases). BUT, Seattle's issues if you've watch the videos, is something altogether different.
AND it SHOULD BE Warranty addressed. Not even believing that it's going to be a perfect fix, but there's got to be something extraordinary causing the static Seattle's bike is generating.
I'm a Crutchfield audio customer and they assist me with my trucks sound system upgrades, they helped me get some all weather powersports speakers that fit my Spyder and dramatically improved the sound in my '13. I'd love it if their technicians could troubleshoot some of the problems folks are having with the newer Spyders. It would be interesting to hear their findings and results.

 

[Seattle]

BRP has seen my videos which should be clear enough for engineering to start troubleshooting the culprit(s). I know I'm sounding like a broken record here, but the audio system flaws clearly isn't isolated to my Spyder since all four 2018 RT-L loaners I've used over the past 18 months. However, BRP stated "this is a normal design". If this design flaw were truly normal, why didn't the 2019 F3-L I test rode produce the same issues? As I understand, there is absolutely no differences between the 2018 and 2019 model Spyders other than cosmetic changes; mechanically and electrically they're supposedly identical. I've verified that the amp and speaker part numbers are identical.

I don't know whether if this is an amp or the newly redesigned digital display head unit failure. I've even spoken with some electrical engineers at lengths where they've observed that the crackling occurs mainly with the power assist steering inputs, high beam lights flicking on or engine fan engaging. They believe there's some spiking occurring due to something not correctly being grounded... lack of shielding or possibly the relays/fuses involved. All are a puzzle to solve.

By the way, Skups shared with me that he had his amp replaced today which resolved the crackling issues for his 2018 Spyder. The question remains whether or not if my Spyder has the identical problems as his and if an amp replacement will rectify the issue for me. He was kind enough to give me his dealer's service advisor's contact info who is aware of my Spyder's issues. Unfortunately, BRP is insistent that I will have to pay for the labour and amp replacement should they find there are no problems with my amp. My warranty will expire in about 5 months so there's a sense of urgency to get the audio system resolved before then. I also believe by finding a solution for my Spyder this in turn will help so many 2018 Spyder owners who are affected.

... the horrible sounds while turning the handlebars (Seattle's vids) is NOT in anyway normal or whatever BRP is stating. It's possible that the full and complete problem is not being correctly communicated to the BRP folks receiving and denying the complaint.
... BUT, Seattle's issues if you've watch the videos, is something altogether different.
AND it SHOULD BE Warranty addressed. Not even believing that it's going to be a perfect fix, but there's got to be something extraordinary causing the static Seattle's bike is generating.

 

[Skups]

By the way, Skups shared with me that he had his amp replaced today which resolved the crackling issues for his 2018 Spyder. The question remains whether or not if my Spyder has the identical problems as his and if an amp replacement will rectify the issue for me. He was kind enough to give me his dealer's service advisor's contact info who is aware of my Spyder's issues. Unfortunately, BRP is insistent that I will have to pay for the labour and amp replacement should they find there are no problems with my amp. My warranty will expire in about 5 months so there's a sense of urgency to get the audio system resolved before then. I also believe by finding a solution for my Spyder this in turn will help so many 2018 Spyder owners who are affected.

Yes, it seems the new amp solved my cracking problem, but...on way into work today, I turned up the volume to approximately 90-95% and I thought I heard a crackle for about 2 seconds. It was a bit too loud anyway and I turned it down. I still have some more testing but the new amp made a huge difference, it actually sounds more clear, less distortion. I'm going connect my phone via bluetooth tomorrow. The sound I heard this morning could have been radio reception, just want to make sure. I think I'll terrorize my neighborhood with some Kid Rock!
:b2b:

 

[JP58]

My 2018 F3L speakers also crackle when turning steering at idle. Tightened battery connections and any other ground I could see and still does it.

 

[Seattle]

Have you reported this audio system flaw to your dealer? The more owners who bring their Spyders in to report the flaw(s), BRP will then commit to addressing this with a global-wide bulletin. BRP has stated I'm on the only affected Spyder documented with these specific issues. Skups Spyder crackling was not the same issue where an amp replacement resolved the crackling for his Spyder.

My 2018 F3L speakers also crackle when turning steering at idle. Tightened battery connections and any other ground I could see and still does it.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes, it seems the new amp solved my cracking problem, but...on way into work today, I turned up the volume to approximately 90-95% and I thought I heard a crackle for about 2 seconds. It was a bit too loud anyway and I turned it down. I still have some more testing but the new amp made a huge difference, it actually sounds more clear, less distortion. I'm going connect my phone via bluetooth tomorrow. The sound I heard this morning could have been radio reception, just want to make sure. I think I'll terrorize my neighborhood with some Kid Rock!
:b2b:

I'm really glad to hear this, But do you think it's possible when the amp was replaced all the connections especially the GROUND were attached correctly and this was the problem from the beginning …… and there was nothing wrong with your original Amp ????? ….. I'm quite skeptical about the ability of most Techs to actually diagnose things correctly ….. jmho ….. Mike hyea:

 

[Skups]

I'm really glad to hear this, But do you think it's possible when the amp was replaced all the connections especially the GROUND were attached correctly and this was the problem from the beginning …… and there was nothing wrong with your original Amp ????? ….. I'm quite skeptical about the ability of most Techs to actually diagnose things correctly ….. jmho ….. Mike hyea:

Yes, I suppose that is possible. The first time I had this checked, (North Tampa dealer), they said they called BRP and told the tech what to try. The problem came back almost immediately. I didn't have time to take it back. I've since moved too far from that deal so I took it to one closer to me. I told them the whole story, they too called BRP, tried a few things and reported back to BRP. Thats when my amp was authorized to be replaced. Maybe when the amp was replaced and the wires were reattached the tech tightened connections better, I don't know. My factory warranty ends in March of 2020, I asked my service advisor what he thought about me buying an extended warranty. He said the engines are very reliable and that most of the problems they see with the Spyder's is electrical issues. He said it's a crap shoot buying an extended warranty.