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Spark plugs

wrbrown

New member
What is the correct torque wrench setting for installing the NGK Iridium spark plugs ?
 
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You don't need no stinkin torque wrench............... Tight is good, too tight is broke. Simple philosophy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :doorag:
 
OK....idiot question here:
I've read cautions about changing plugs in alumunium heads and it should be done with the engine stone cold. Does this apply to the Rotax too...?
 
I haven't heard of stone cold. Let it cool a half our so you don't burn yourself. I've changed ZX6r plugs warm. No prob
 
You don't need no stinkin torque wrench............... Tight is good, too tight is broke. Simple philosophy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :doorag:

:agree: I used Heat Paste in the Spyder But NEVER have in 13 Rotax Jet Skies and Never had a Problem?
Spyder must be Different?:dontknow:
 
I haven't heard of stone cold. Let it cool a half our so you don't burn yourself. I've changed ZX6r plugs warm. No prob

What I heard was something to do with the difference in expansion rates and the placement of a thermally cold plug in a hot/warm head could cause things to crack/fail when things cooled off.
As far as tightening the plugs, I run them up until I feel the plug seat and then just a squeeze. Don't forget the heat paste, too.
 
Its plausible. I haven't kept up to date of spark plug design. I have never witnessed an issue. Putting them in cold isn't bad either.. But ponder this... How would service stations and motorcycle shops perform tuneups if they had to "room temp" the engine? Talk about falling behind..

You have people stating that downshifting is bad too... Been doing that for 30 years. No problems. Who knows?
 
The usual reason for the use of heat-sink paste is for more efficient transfer of the heat from the heated object to the base. In this case, the spark plug gets hot and the heat paste helps transfer the heat to the alloy head more efficiently. Without the heat paste, the plug may fail prematurely.
 
The usual reason for the use of heat-sink paste is for more efficient transfer of the heat from the heated object to the base. In this case, the spark plug gets hot and the heat paste helps transfer the heat to the alloy head more efficiently. Without the heat paste, the plug may fail prematurely.

Great Explanation! Since I use each of my 2 skies about 25 hours each a season and replace the plugs each Spring it really doesn,t matter. We certainly don,t want to replace the Spyder plugs any MORE than neccesary!:roflblack:
 
Am wondering, I have been on 2 wheels for 67 years, Triumps Harelys Hondas and always did my own servicings. What is heat paste and why has it not been needed before?? Have logged over a million miles in and never used it? Guess the older bikes never needed it or what? Please explain it to me.

Thanks, Jack.
 
Heat Paste:

Scotty is right. Heat paste does the same thing for the spark plug as it does for the CPU in your computer. It aids in the transfer of heat from the spark plug to the cylinder head (which is a big, aluminum heat sink).

Spark plugs are designed to maintain a certain center electrode temperature. Rule of thumb is; "Run the coldest plug you can without fouling". Since no one knows how each Spyder will be operated or in what conditions, the manufacturer usually runs 1 heat range hotter than necessary. This helps keep the plugs clean and doesn't hurt anything.

To maintain this ideal center electrode temperature the spark plug needs to shed heat efficiently, hence the heat paste. Also, in this computer controlled, sensor laden, fuel injected world, it is more important than in the olden days.

Spark Plug Gap:

NGK Iridium spark plugs are correctly gapped from the factory, but it never hurts to check. HOWEVER! Do not use any adjustment tool that touches the center iridium electrode. Iridium is VERY hard but is also very brittle. If you put any pressure on it, it will break. You only adjust the outer electrode anyway.

This is one of the problems with multiple negative electrode plugs. How do you get the same exact gap on each one? Pretty tough.

Engine temp for changing plugs:

The "Stone Cold" statement is CYA in my opinion. If you can comfortably hold your hand pressed to the cylinder head then you're good to go for a spark plug change. If you end up with 2nd or 3rd degree burns to your hand then you should wait a bit longer! :roflblack:

Be VERY careful with a torque wrench that you've got the correct setting and that you do not over tighten the plugs.

I am impressed with the number of Spyder owners who are willing to do their own maintence. It is rewarding, satisfying, assuring and CHEAP!
 
After a bad experience with the plugs on a Suzuki arcing, I've made a habit of adding
a little dielectric grease in the plug boot.
 
The "Stone Cold" statement is CYA in my opinion. If you can comfortably hold your hand pressed to the cylinder head then you're good to go for a spark plug change. If you end up with 2nd or 3rd degree burns to your hand then you should wait a bit longer...
You'll actually only try to change the plugs on a hot engine about once in your lifetime; it'll be more than enough! :yikes:
 
After a bad experience with the plugs on a Suzuki arcing, I've made a habit of adding
a little dielectric grease in the plug boot.
:agree: Even without the arcing, the dielectric grease serves as boot release, and makes getting the plug wires off next time much easier.....on both the technician and the wires.
 
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