• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Spare Key Question

Mr. White

New member
If I "hide" my spare key behind the oil panel, will it affect the "limp mode" as I am told to remove the key from the ignition and walk away from the Spyder ten feet or so to clear the screen....would the spare key location defeat this? Same chip, etc.

:spyder2:

 
I did it this way from day one using a magnetic key holder. 3,000 miles later, no issues.
 
Last edited:
Spare key

On my 2011 RT-S I secured my spare key to a mounting screw behind the right speaker panel. The panel can be easily removed to get at the key without tools. I had the spare key for the 2008 GS/RS mounted to the oil tank also. When I went to use it once it would not allow me to start the spyder. Spoke to a dealer in So. Cal and they thought that the heat from the oil may have affected the chip. Not sure that is the correct answer but after a new key was made I moved it to a new location away from heat.
 
Thanks, guys...Rando has no problem and spare in top trunk close to ignition being no problem...I guess I don't have a problem...:clap:

:spyder2:
 
Last edited:
On my 2011 RT-S I secured my spare key to a mounting screw behind the right speaker panel. The panel can be easily removed to get at the key without tools. I had the spare key for the 2008 GS/RS mounted to the oil tank also. When I went to use it once it would not allow me to start the spyder. Spoke to a dealer in So. Cal and they thought that the heat from the oil may have affected the chip. Not sure that is the correct answer but after a new key was made I moved it to a new location away from heat.


I know heat will demagnetize a magnet, So he could be right. :dontknow:
 
I know heat will demagnetize a magnet, So he could be right. :dontknow:

I had a key holder attached to my oil resevoir (near the top) for over a year and a half and it had no efffect on the key. However, the key holder was plastic and using a metal keyholder may present a problem.
 
This isn't exactly on topic here but it's related and may be something you would want to know. I had a couple of uncoded keys made that will unlock the trunks and the bags on my RT. They won't start the RT but if I put one in the ignition, then hold a coded key next to it, the RT will start and run. So the coded key does not actually have to be used to turn the ignition. Somebody, I think SethO, posted about this a while back. After starting the RT, I picked up the coded key, put it in my pocket, and walked off. The RT kept right on running no matter how far away I got. So, it only needs the code to start, not to run, which means that if I should break or damage the coded key, I don't really have to spend all that money to get a new key coded.

Cotton
 
This isn't exactly on topic here but it's related and may be something you would want to know. I had a couple of uncoded keys made that will unlock the trunks and the bags on my RT. They won't start the RT but if I put one in the ignition, then hold a coded key next to it, the RT will start and run. So the coded key does not actually have to be used to turn the ignition. Somebody, I think SethO, posted about this a while back. After starting the RT, I picked up the coded key, put it in my pocket, and walked off. The RT kept right on running no matter how far away I got. So, it only needs the code to start, not to run, which means that if I should break or damage the coded key, I don't really have to spend all that money to get a new key coded.

Cotton

Good info, Cotton. Is there any special equipment required to get the uncoded keys made...like can Wal Mart make them? I will get a couple like you did. Thanks.
 
Good info, Cotton. Is there any special equipment required to get the uncoded keys made...like can Wal Mart make them? I will get a couple like you did. Thanks.

I had mine made at Dix Key Shop in San Angelo. They are very good at what they do and they had to do a little massaging on the keys before they would work. They used a key blank from a Volvo, not sure of the year or model and cut them on a regular key copying machine. But the keys wouldn't quite go into the lock cylinder so they filed them down to make them just a little bit thinner, then they worked fine on the bags and rear trunk. But they would turn the ignition switch but wouldn't push the lock down far enough to unlock the seat or the frunk. The shoulders of the key were hitting the edge of the lock and stopping it from going in all the way. They ground off the shoulders of the keys and they work fine. So, they didn't use any equipment that Walmart or anyone else wouldn't have but they may have used some knowledge that the others might not have.

Cotton
 
Go to a locksmith and tell them you need an Ilco x270 key blank in order to have a spare key made. It will work perfectly as an uncoded key. Same key blank used on a Triumph motorcycle.
 
I keep my bike in a locked garage and have always left the key right in the ignition, what is this about "clearing the screen" about? I have never seen any difference when I do walk away more than 10 feet.

Thanks

Randy
 
If I "hide" my spare key behind the oil panel, will it affect the "limp mode" as I am told to remove the key from the ignition and walk away from the Spyder ten feet or so to clear the screen....would the spare key location defeat this? Same chip, etc.

:spyder2:

HOT DOG YER ALIVE!!!:ohyea:! thought you disappeared for ever!!!nojoke hadn't seen or heard ya on the forum here. :2thumbs:
 
Back
Top