IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Any idea how much doing that has shifted the relative position of the rotor with respect to the center of the floating range of the caliper?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Space between wheel and swing arm
- Thread starter IdahoMtnSpyder
- Start date
This is the video I followed in pulling and reinstalling my rear wheels. Check it out starting about the 10 minute mark
https://youtu.be/MWtbQPdKd8w
https://youtu.be/MWtbQPdKd8w
Last edited:
oldgoat
New member
Sorry to have misled you. I still have visible squeezing of the swingarm arms when the axle nut is tightened. I did not correct that.
I added a 0.5mm shim to deal with a different problem.
I'm suffering from " can't rememberitis " these days.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Otherwise known as suffering from CRS disease! :roflblack:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Got another link? That one comes up no good. Looks like it's a link to a message in your Google mailbox.
Warlock
New member
A little trick I use while tightening the axle nut is I take a 8mm allen wrench and place it at the bottom of the sprocket and belt. Then I roll the wheel and let the wrench roll until it is about half way of the sprocket lodged with the belt. This tightens every thing while you tighten the axle nut. Once tightened roll the allen wrench out and go for a ride.
David
jcthorne
Well-known member
Once you have the axle shaft back through the swing arm, place the nut on finger tight, put the belt back on the sprocket and then lower the bike a bit to put some tension on the belt. The belt tension will pull the axle forward keeping it tight against the adjusters while you tighten the axle nut.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Too late!! This is the same suggestion Finless Bob mentions in his video that UtahPete linked to above. By the time I learned about doing this I had managed to get it put back together with the belt tracking about a couple of mm from the flange!
What I did was decide to use the axle washer even though with the hitch mounting plates it doesn't leave much axle exposed past the nut. Then going with SpyderJerry's suggestion about lube I put grease on both sides of the washer. I made sure the axle snugged the adjusters by tapping on the nut using a hammer. I used a punch bar against the nut rather than try to directly beat on the axle! The axle and belt moved hardly at all while I tightened it up.
Now, to attack bleeding the line to rear caliper.
