Solved - Frunk switch not opening - will replacing the switch help?

[NorwegianRT]

I have read several threads and as I understand the switch for the parking brake/frunk is usually failing on the frunk side, while the parking side keeps working.
I got the opening solenoid, but nothing happens when I press the switch.
Will replacing the switch be the most easy solution?
I was thinking a new Carling switch would do it?

 

[Gwolf]

Does it have an electrical solenoid, or just the usual cable inside a cover to open the frunk lock?
The usual set up was one way turning the switch opens the frunk latch, the other way unlocks the seat.
The parking brake was always a completely different, electrically controlled circuit off a button on the left handlebar.

Not familiar with newer or International models, so I really don't know.
Unless the International models were different the 2012 should be manual cable controlled frunk and seat / with electrical motor to a cable going to the parking brake (rear) activated by a switch on the left handlebar.

 

[NorwegianRT]

It does have an electric solenoid, but since I bought the Spyder in 2015 it has never worked.
The wire operated by the key is working fine still, the seat wire is not functioning and replaced by a manual wire hidden in the glovebox.
My 2012 has the combined parkingbrake/frunk switch on the left side of the cluster in front of the glovebox.

 

[BlueSliver]

Hello @NorwegianRT, I'm new to the Cam Am group, but it is my understanding that your year and model only has the front frunk opened by the ignition switch operating the cable to the trunk latch. I have a 2011 RT SM5 and mine has the double operating rocker switch for the parking brake and front trunk plus the ignition switch

 

[Peter Aawen]

I believe that all of the pre-2014/15 RT's had the dual action Parking Brake/Frunk Opening switch on their dash panel below the handlebars, but in my experience and that of many others, apparently now including you @NorwegianRT, the Frunk Opening side of the switch repeatedly fails while the Parking Brake side still works. I've tried fixing that with a replacement OEM switch a number of times, but the OEM switches just don't last for long!!

I have also done a few different tests using a variety of a/mkt Carling switches to operate JUST the frunk opening, leaving the Park Brake still functioning fine on the original switch; but regardless of the switch brand/type, that solenoid opening thing just doesn't work reliably/open the frunk ALL the time - regardless of the switch type, it would sometimes take about 10 or more switch operations to get the frunk to open. The problem appears to be a lack of sufficient power getting thru the switch to the solenoid, and I believe that the power level in that circuit is controlled by the circuitry in the dash module, something I'm not prepared to play with!

So altho I've got a switch in the dash panel, I've basically given up on the 'Switch opening the frunk' option, relying instead on the 'Push in & Turn the Key' operation, and I do have a hidden 'Emergency Release'!

That said, I believe that one MIGHT be lucky enough to get a switch to work the frunk opening reliably by running a completely separate power circuit direct from the battery thru a key activated relay and an alternative switch and wiring to the solenoid, effectively completely by-passing the OEM wiring, but I haven't tried that - it was just too much bother. Still, my latest 'alternative switch' installation WILL open the frunk maybe 1 or 2 times out of every 10 or so attempts, but I rarely bother with even trying it these days.

 

[NorwegianRT]

Thanks for usefull info @Peter Aawen
Pulled out the connection for the solenoid and used an old car battery to test the solenoid.
I might do a new seperate power circuit if I am bored one day , but for now I will just use the key.

 

[NorwegianRT]

Hello @NorwegianRT, I'm new to the Cam Am group, but it is my understanding that your year and model only has the front frunk opened by the ignition switch operating the cable to the trunk latch. I have a 2011 RT SM5 and mine has the double operating rocker switch for the parking brake and front trunk plus the ignition switch

Hiya @BlueSliver
I have the double switch also, but it is probably broken on the "frunkside".

 

[Gwolf]

I did have the cable pull type on my Spyder where turning the key opens the frunk latch one way and the seat latch the other way. I don't know how any competent engineer could think designing something where a small key pulls a cable to unlock something was a good idea.

I solved the problem by wiring the frunk latch open permanently, and putting a pair of the old hot rod type hood hold down pins at the corners with a small padlock instead of a hood latch pin.

Got a short piece of plastic coated cable with a loop on the end stuffed up under the edge of the seat where a direct pull on the loop opens the seat latch.

-

 

[NorwegianRT]

I did have the cable pull type on my Spyder where turning the key opens the frunk latch one way and the seat latch the other way. I don't know how any competent engineer could think designing something where a small key pulls a cable to unlock something was a good idea.

I solved the problem by wiring the frunk latch open permanently, and putting a pair of the old hot rod type hook hold down pins at the corners with a small padlock instead of a hook latch pin.

Got a short piece of plastic coated cable with a loop on the end stuffed up under the edge of the seat where a direct pull on the loop opens the seat latch.

View attachment 249489 - View attachment 249490

Neat and simple solution there @Gwolf .
And I agree, the key - wire solution is not optimal for sure.
I will mount an emergency cable during the weekend, just to be safe.

 

[NorwegianRT]

This morning I found why the solenoid was not working and never had for as long as I have had the bike. (Factory new, but bought in 2015)
I suspect the issue was due to factory worker not connecting the frunk micro switch properly.
As I pulled all the plastic around the headlights and had a clear view to the solenoid and microswitch I noticed that the connector was not sitting right on the microswitch.
I put my face closer and saw that the black wire was not sitting on the flatpin from the switch at all, only the two on top was on the flatpins.
I pulled the plug off and made sure it was on all pins when putting it back on.
Then I locked the frunk latch, put something heavy on the microswitch arm and with ignition on I pushed the switch on the panel, and the solenoid came to life and opened the latch as it should.
With a big smile on my face I put the covers back on and desided I deserved a cold beer.

So, for others that have solenoid issues, maybe your plug is not properly placed also ??

On the picture below I have drawn the flat pin for the black wire in red and the plug housing (green arrow) was laying outside to the left of the pin.
(Hope y'all understand what I mean)

Made a drawing of how the plug was installed, clear miss of the flatpin for the black wire.

 

[racoon]

Is it possible that vibration during riding caused it to work loose?

 

[Gwolf]

(Hope y'all understand what I mean)

View attachment 249497

It means that the quality control inspector is the superintendent's son-in-law ????

 

[NorwegianRT]

Is it possible that vibration during riding caused it to work loose?

Not in my case, 'cause then it would have to have vibrated off and back on only the two on top. That is just impossible.

And btw, I've now got a frunk light!