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Smoothspyder F3 belt tensioner
- Thread starter Mikind7
- Start date
28,500 ml on my F3 and 32,000 ml on my RS, this is an excellent manufactured product I have fitted several for other Spyder owners over the years with no complaints. :clap::yes:
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Devious56
New member
I have a 2015 RT Limited, and installed a Smooth Spyder tensioner when I first got it. The Smooth Spyder did a good job and I was pleased with it, until. When Doc Humphries first came out with his adaption of BRP's idler pully he provided this version to specific testers at a good price, and I was lucky enough to be one of those. Why? I figured at the price there were no disadvantages to trying it out. Smartest think I could have done, as Doc Humphries unit has gotten rid of vibrations I didn't know exsisted, and now my Spyder goes down the road almost like an automobile, smooth as silk. Oh, it weights significantly less, and is quite a bit cheaper. It is also much easier to install than the Smooth Spyder tensioner. Check it out, there are many very happy customers. Go the Roadster Renovations, and give Doc a call, he'll be very happy to talk to you.
David
David
Badco149
New member
I had the smoothspyder installed when I first purchased it. Over 8k now. I did this because of the stories I read on here and the first time I drove down the highway at 60 to 70 the vibration was very bad. The Smoothspyder eliminated this completely. The bike shifts smooth as silk and I go down the highway at 70 + with ZERO vibrations. The quality is solid and warrantied. It is a little pricey but considering I paid 28k what's 400 bucks for comfort. I am sure both work equally as well. IMHO
WackyDan
New member
Which one? I assume Jim's Smooth Spyder?
Yes, at least that's what I saw on the install video. Not a big deal and only on the F3 chassis.
Badco149
New member
Not on the F3- T or the F3 LTD. Which is what I was referring too. From what I saw on Smoothspyder site there are two different models. On my F3 LTD nothing was cut or removed except for one bolt which was replaced with a longer one. As for Jim not replying back I found him to be very responsive that he replied back to me with a answer when he was on vacation!. That is service.
Good Luck!. NH ROCKS!!!:bowdown:
capt.jim
Member
Sorry Dan,
My apologies, but I can't find any emails around that time that I missed or that weren't answered.
I'm still on here and still working on new things, but I mostly just watch from the sidelines and don't say a lot unless I have something pertinent to contribute.
WackyDan
New member
No problem... Taking a look at my F3-s again today and deciding.... Leaning your way.
Confused
I have a 2016 F3T with 851 miles on it now. I am leaving on a big trip in August and don't know if I can go highway speeds cause at about 65-70 miles,per hour I am getting lots of vibration. I have talked to two different dealers and they say a belt tensioner won't help I just will have to go over 70 miles,per hour and it will get better. I read about Smooth Spyder and Docs tensioner and wonder if it would help! I am not mechanical but my farkling is getting expensive with labor costs. Is there anything easy to install or videos to help? Thanks in advance for help!
I have a 2016 F3T with 851 miles on it now. I am leaving on a big trip in August and don't know if I can go highway speeds cause at about 65-70 miles,per hour I am getting lots of vibration. I have talked to two different dealers and they say a belt tensioner won't help I just will have to go over 70 miles,per hour and it will get better. I read about Smooth Spyder and Docs tensioner and wonder if it would help! I am not mechanical but my farkling is getting expensive with labor costs. Is there anything easy to install or videos to help? Thanks in advance for help!
Roadster Renovations
New member
This video is for a RT, but the F3 bolts up the same way. There are no adaptors on the kits we now have available. As far as I know, our kit and BRP's are the only ones that dampen the tension side of the belt. It is like putting a finger on a guitar string to stop it from vibrating.
List of available kits. You need to view it with a big computer.
http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/ultimate-vibration-damper-products
I've read somewhere on this forum that the "noticeable vibration window" is related to belt tension. ~ Does more belt tension increase OR decrease the speed (of vehicle) at which the vibration becomes noticeable?
At first I thought it was "road surface" prior to reading about the belt vibration issue. (I begin to notice it in the low 60's mph. range on my F3-S, which based on reports here seems a little low.)
At first I thought it was "road surface" prior to reading about the belt vibration issue. (I begin to notice it in the low 60's mph. range on my F3-S, which based on reports here seems a little low.)
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Badco149
New member
This tensioner is on the return side of belt, but the BRP and Doc's are on the pull side, correct? BRP's "fix" suggests it's the tension side causing the vibration. (which contradicts Smoothspyder approach) Thinking I'll just "drive hard" around town and keep it under 65 for now! (My "3 week riding season" is essentially over this year anyways col. ~ Occupational hazard.) <sad> ~ Maybe next year!
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capt.jim
Member
Our tensioner for the 2015-2017 F3, F3S models and 2015-2017 F3T and 2016 F3 LTD. models both go on the top/tension side of the belt and use a proven, purpose built long life idler.
The minor trimming of the plastic on the F3-F3S was needed to get the larger idler moved back far enough without hitting the frame bar directly above it. That's why the other idlers are small.
These idlers have a 6203 ball bearing with a special C-4 designation, C-4 meaning that they are purposely designed with extra internal clearance between the race and ball bearings so they will have long longevity at sustained high speeds without burning up.
Many serpentine auto belts use the same size idler bearing, but no C-4 designation with a much tighter clearance for much slower speeds.
The 2016 T and LTD. models bolt to the rear lower shock bracket and require no plastic trimming.
These will not work with the 17 LTD. as the automatic air ride switch is in the way, only the F3T for the 2017's.
The minor trimming of the plastic on the F3-F3S was needed to get the larger idler moved back far enough without hitting the frame bar directly above it. That's why the other idlers are small.
These idlers have a 6203 ball bearing with a special C-4 designation, C-4 meaning that they are purposely designed with extra internal clearance between the race and ball bearings so they will have long longevity at sustained high speeds without burning up.
Many serpentine auto belts use the same size idler bearing, but no C-4 designation with a much tighter clearance for much slower speeds.
The 2016 T and LTD. models bolt to the rear lower shock bracket and require no plastic trimming.
These will not work with the 17 LTD. as the automatic air ride switch is in the way, only the F3T for the 2017's.
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